1986 Johnson J10RCDB not achieving high RPM--wrong carburator?

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Actually... no such thing as a wrong carburetor on that engine. Both the 9.9hp and the 15hp model will perform trouble free.. The 15hp installed on the very early 9.9hp models did actually increase the 9.9hp to 15hp due to the fact that the only difference between the two was the carburetor. However as time progressed, some of the powerhead and exhaust tuning parts differed... and installing a 15hp carburetor on the later model 9.9hp did result in a slight increase of power and speed but not enough to be impressive.

Someday when you have the carburetor off for whatever reason, measure the hole on the back of it to see what you have.
 

cprodave

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 1, 2012
Messages
301
Yesterday in water tank (with water about 7inches above Water Pump) the engine started within a couple pulls using brand new plugs gapped to 0.030 and S/S Idle set 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. I ran it for only 2 minutes or so. Good news is the pee stream was strong, i.e. no signs of major Impeller damage. I let it sit for an hour or so then restarted it, tried to do the Joe Reeves test. It stalled and wouldn't restart, even with Starting Fluid (the lubricated type). I checked spark with Gap Tester set at 5/16 attached to the spark plugs while the plugs were installed in the head--got very strong spark each cylinder. There seemed to be fuel mixture on each plug, but not overabundantly.

I am back to checking "the basics" on this...There is plenty of spark, compression seems strong (based on my sore arm pulling the recoil starter and pulling a separate rope on the flywheel) although I haven't used a Compression Tester. So this seems to be a Fuel problem. I can do a double-verify test on Fuel Tank (this tank on a second known-good outboard, then known-good tank on this 9.9hp outboard). If fuel tank (and fuel within) is not the problem then I need to test the Fuel Pump (for diaphragm leak, etc). If Pump is good then dive into the Carburetor.

BTW does leaving this outboard sit with Lower Unit in water tank overnight or for a day or so cause any unnecessary corrosion etc on the Drive shaft? Lower unit/gearcase seems tight, i.e. no milky gear oil...

Any other suggestions?
 

raczekp1

Lieutenant
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Messages
1,327
if you cant reach high rpm on boat that means prop is spinning on bushing.
if in thest tank and carb is clean even needle seat is clear so it can be power pack
 

cprodave

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Jul 1, 2012
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301
raczekp1, thanks for the input but I have had a spun prop before on another outboard. As I recall, the exact opposite occurred when I spun that prop, I.e. High RPM's were easily achieved but the boat didn't go anywhere! Kind of like driving a car where drive wheels are spinning on ice...on this outboard (before it began to not even start) the engine would get to mid-RPM's but not go higher.

Latest update/summary on this 9.9HP project is: checked
Compression yesterday, 5 pulls on the Recoil Starter got 80psi Upper Cylinder, 80psi Lower Cylinder (both are a bit low but not terrible. A new head gasket might fix this. There is oily residue inside the Top Cowl. Can't see any definite leaking gaskets on the Powerhead.). Spark is strong (new plugs, gapped at 0.030), it was at least 5/16 on Spark gap Tester (maybe 7/16? I lost the exact readings) jumped on both wires tested through the spark plugs. Fuel pump seems fine--when removed from Engine Block and rebolted together, squeezing Fuel Bulb does not result in fuel squirting out backside (as would indicate a ruptured diaphragm). After reconnecting to Block, disconnecting fuel line at the Carb, and pulling on recoil starter, fuel squirts out of the fuel line indicating Crankcase is producing adequate vacuum and pressure and Fuel Pump is OK. Puzzling part is that Engine does not start (even sneeze, hardly) with a bit of gas/oil mixture dripped into Carb Throat. Nor does it sneeze with starting fluid shot into Cylinders.

So next I guess the Next Step is to remove/inspect/clean and possibly rebuild the Carb. Although I am still puzzled why I can't get it to do anything with a shot of gas/oil or starting fluid.

Any additional advice??? Thanks in advance.
 

flyingscott

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Apr 8, 2014
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7,991
Did you check the fly wheel key? Did you check for spark after it was sitting? Have you tried disconnecting the kill switch?
 

Tim Frank

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Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,333
Despite some assurances that there is no problem with the carb, a quick search of this forum will show all sorts of trouble people have had.

The kicker is that once a Previous Owner got going, no telling what has been done. If it is now a "Frankencarb", you may have to do some trial and error to get a configuration that works OK.
There may indeed be a wrong or mismatched jet.
Not all other parts are necessarily plug and play just because they bolt up.

Start with the HS orifice. Might be a 9.9 jet in a 15 hp. carb....or some other combo.

That part number 397088 may just be a casting number and not show in a parts catalogue anywhere. It nmay be a lower level part that has a final op or 2 to determine where it actually gets used.
 
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cprodave

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 1, 2012
Messages
301
FlyinhScott, yes I did check for spark after it was sitting. I will pull the flywheel and check key middle of next week is soonest I could do that --"stay tuned" please. Slipped flywheel would result in strong spark but at wrong time. If I am getting spark how would disconnecting Kill Switch give additional insight? The Kill Switch (tiller button) is smashed/mangled but seems to be stuck in the On (ignition circuit Closed) position.

TimFrank, oh no, the dreaded FrankenCarb! I hope not but time will tell... thanks.
 

cprodave

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Jul 1, 2012
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Racerone, yes you are correct...bad description I made. I should have said that the Kill Switch is stuck/broken but not killing/preventing any spark.

So what would be gained/learned from bypassing/disconnecting the Kill Switch?
 

Tim Frank

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,333
Racerone, yes you are correct...bad description I made. I should have said that the Kill Switch is stuck/broken but not killing/preventing any spark.

So what would be gained/learned from bypassing/disconnecting the Kill Switch?

You would eliminate the kill switch as a source of the problem....i.e. an intermittent fault.
 
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