1968 Evinrude 3hp 3806A lower gear case oil leaking out exhaust erea drain hole

Steelhand

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There is a small hole next to one of the lower gear case bolts aft of the propeller. If you're looking at the propeller, it's top starboard side. Never knew they had one. I was testing the motor in a tank, I walked away for a few minutes and had oil water when I returned. Any suggestions on what I'm looking at for a repair? Looking at the exploded view in a service manual. I come up with 2 seals plus a water tube grommet. I'm I close? I'm completely new at this but very determined to avoid repair shop. Thanks for any time and consideration on this issue.
 

Crosbyman

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is it really gearcase oil...or black goo…... a mix of carbon and unburnt fuel ?

is water getting IN the gearcase ? it should if oil is coming out
 

Joe Reeves

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Compare what you see with the actual gear-lube.... It may simply be un-burnt oil mixture dripping down from the powerhead

If oil is leaking from the gear-case, by the same token... water will enter the gearcase.... check it.

Worse case scenario would be the seal under the water pump needs replacing. No big deal.

The water tube grommet has nothing to do with the gearcase lube.
 

Steelhand

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Thanks all, It is black goo. I have a feeling it's unburnt fuel oil. I will return when I check the gearcase oil for water.
 

Steelhand

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Confirmed! water is present in the gear case. The oil is very runny and light brown.
 

F_R

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That is a separate issue. Black goo is from the exhaust. Runny/brown oil---well when is the last time it was changed? And what was put in it? There is a reason the factory said to change it on a regular maintenance schedule.
 

Crosbyman

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well if it is letting water in you have 2 options depending on your usage, abilities and ambitions

a- fix the seals (not to hard really) check utube for demos

b- change the oil on occasion if the leak is not to severe (Wallymart oil is cheap)

read this book JOHNSON... save book mark for future see section on gearcase print sections on what you need

JW's kid brother of your Evinrude have been around for quite some time !

http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/manuals/1922-1964johnson.html
 
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Steelhand

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Sorry for the delay. Went to the lake right after last post to give the wife space for a change. The history on the motor is a big question mark. Bought it off a friend and it has been a nightmare from there. He knew nothing about it, New fuel lines, carb kit, spark plugs before tank test. Did not check gear case oil. That was next on list.

If it is unburnt oil in the exhaust, what sort of issue is that? There was a significant amount and it was black. oiled up one of those large curb side trash cans the truck picks up. Still had a good amount of oil come out of gearcase. I'm wondering what kind of garbage I introduced to the cooling system. I let it sit and run in that for about 8 to 10 minutes before I go back. I feel pretty low about it. I hate it for the motor.

Thanks for all the input.
 

oldboat1

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Nah. You're close. Overheating is the killer for outboards, so will want to change out the impeller. Gas to oil ratio on the '68 is 50:1. You could be running a little rich on the ratio, or a little too rich on the air mix (carb).
 

tomhath

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A bit of black oily goop from the exhaust is normal, that's what lubricates the engine.

Water in the gear case could be bad seals, or it could be just some condensation from sitting. I'd change the oil and run it a few times, then check it again.

By the way, condensation is also why you need to check trailer bearings on a regular schedule. Moisture can appear inside the hubs even if they haven't been in the water.
 

F_R

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Not sure how condensation can get into a sealed gearcase ?

Live in the Great Dismal Swamp? Just kidding.

Seriously, change the gear oil and run it awhile. It may be perfectly ok.
 

Steelhand

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Thanks for all the advice. I will have to put everything aside for at least a week. I have a lot of irons in the fire. I'll post update of the results when I start the project again.

I have made up my mind. This little motor is going to run and run right someday. I want pack it along as a kicker for my 11.8 Feathercraft "camper model" tiny. I'm to old and arthritic to row. I got nervous on my last run alone. If my Johnson would have quit me,... well, you get the picture.
 

Crosbyman

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try not to worry to much ... foamy, floating oil crud in a garbage can is normal All these motors spew out burnt carbon deposit out the exhaust and being open ported when the pistons come down the burnt fuel goes out while the fresh gas is sucked in the cyl… unfortunately part of the fresh fuel-oil mix also exist the cyl along with the expelled fumes

all that stuff ends up floating in your oily garbage can.

IF… that gearcase in NOT CRACKED just refill it…. change the 2 gaskets under the oil screws and go boating recheck the oil after several runs then decide to fix it or just change the oil
on occasion….
as suggested by FR and others

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/4hp_johnson-evinrude.html
 

tomhath

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Not sure how condensation can get into a sealed gearcase ?

Good seals will stop oil and water, but they aren't hermetic. Air will be forced in and out with barometric pressure and temperature changes.
 

Steelhand

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Bought new gaskets last month to have on hand. I will change those. At the moment, I'm not able to break free the top one for refill. First one to do me this way. Impact screwdriver first fail as well. Square screwdriver with wrench didn't help. I just walked away, I'll go back at it later.

Going to take all the advice and refill, run and check. That would be great to know it was just because I'm new at all this. It's why I joined the iboat community.
 

Crosbyman

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top oil screw… have you tried soaking for a few days with PB blaster like oils…

try heating up the screw a bit …. or freeze it with a air can (held up side down) to create expansion or contraction of the the screw shaft itself….. it may "break" the bond


sometimes if you tighten the screw it may break the bond so try your impact driver both ways

I do use a 1/4inch impact driver for screws they are not as powerfull as the big air guns but work great on flywheel nuts

it should handle the oil screws also

keep soaking heating or freezing but… Don't strip the screw head !!

Don't just refill from the bottom screw unless you flip the gearcase up

otherwise oil will air lock and won't flow enough to fill the gearcase ...fill slowly letting air bubbles out
 

Steelhand

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For the update: Changed the gearcase oil, new oil screw gaskets. Fuel mix 50:1 Ran the same as last time. I didn't run it as much and still produced a lot of black oil. No water in gearcase, so the Iboats community was spot on again. I guess that's the way they run.

Now, I have noticed that when I pull the throttle all the way on fast, It seems the motor only runs at 2/3 power. I even pulled the cam roller forward but it stayed the same. When I disconnect the fuel line "while it's running" after it runs a little bit, It seems to open up to full power right before it dies. I seem to be losing 1/3 power. Needle valves set at 1 1/2 turn from seat for low speed and 1 turn from seat high speed.
 

tomhath

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They often speed up a bit as they run out of fuel and the mixture starts to get lean. Adjust the low speed needle so it idles smooth, then try closing the high speed adjustment (towards "Leaner") just an eighth of a turn at a time. Wait several seconds between each adjustment so it has time to take effect. Don't run it too lean though or it might overheat; it will take a bit of hunting to find the sweet spots for both low and high.
 

F_R

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1 turn for the high speed is too much. Turn it toward "lean" while running at full throttle. When too lean, it will start to die out. That is the signal to turn it back towards "rich" a bit till it regains power. Do the same with the slow speed needle at idle.

You are running it in a barrel, right? Inhaling smoke coming up from the barrel will kill the performance, at any speed.
 
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