Tachometer running backwards

Waynes world

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
8
Good afternoon, I have a 1993 johnson outboard 140hp. Restoring the 84 starcraft. I swapped out the old tach for a used faria 7000 rpm .
the original was bad but still wired. The faria shows 800 at idle then pegs to 0 with throttle. I have the gray wire from controls as the signal wire .
????????? Anybody seen this problem before ?????.
Thanks Wayne
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Normally the Gray wire leading from the tachometer is attached at the terminal strip to another Gray wire which leads from the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier...... remove the gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,637
The only way that motor has a 35amp system is if it was converted...it should have the 16amp water cooled rec/reg.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
The only way that motor has a 35amp system is if it was converted...it should have the 16amp water cooled rec/reg.


Yeah, I know. I figured "Wayne" would work around the instructions. That was a copy/paste item from my database which I didn't feel like rewriting for the smaller amperage stator. The test would still hold true pertaining to the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier.
 

Waynes world

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
8
Allright ! , really appreciate your help out there. I checked continuity from gray wire at tach to the engine strip (see pic ) and it has continuity. I then borrowed a known working tach and swapped it out. Same thing, tach shows idle speed then falls off towards 0 under throttle. Should I still do test with gray and yellow /gray wires as described ?
 

Waynes world

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
8
You stated before that if the rectifier is bad the tach would not receive a signal. The tach drops right 0 when I turn on the ignition. Then jumps up to idle 800 upon starting. Then drops back to 0 when I throttle up in neutral . 15193300785871331091977.jpg
 

Waynes world

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
8
I disassembled all the connections in the previous pic and cleaned up with sandpaper. Reassembled and same thing .I then tested battery voltage 12.5 engine off. Engine idling it dropped to 12.4 .when I revved up to 2500 approximately for about 30 seconds the voltage reading stayed the same 12.4. Sounds like it isn't charging right?
 

Waynes world

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
8
I tested as you describe. The tach functions properly with gray to yellow /grey stripe on engine terminal block. I then cleaned up the power supply wire to rectifier and returned tach wire to the proper terminal. Fired her up again and the tach worked for just a few seconds . So I need a rectifier (##!!#) . I noticed that the cdi (6700)rpm limit primary coil wire boots are cracking to pieces, can I get replacement boots? Do I have to replace to cdi? I saw a date of 2007 on the box
 

Waynes world

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
8
Again I really appreciate your help. I'm getting it all figured out here. And the more I put my hands on this outboard the better equipped I am if something goes wrong out on the Gulf with the family aboard. A $200 rectifier is worth the piece of mind that it won't catch FIRE .
thanks Wayne
I will keep you posted
 

Waynes world

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
8
I'm back, the new gasket for the rectifier /reg has adhesive on one side and an embedded seal on the other side. My question is ,do I need to use gasket sealer with this gasket ( brp-#344472)
thanks Wayne
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
I'm back, the new gasket for the rectifier /reg has adhesive on one side and an embedded seal on the other side. My question is ,do I need to use gasket sealer with this gasket ( brp-#344472)
thanks Wayne


Sorry, that had to be invented after I retired. I don't have the answer to your question... BUT... from your description, it sounds like a sealer isn't needed.
 
Top