1997 Evinrude 115 overheating the Port Cylinders

bamabutch90

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1997 Evinrude 115 (E115SXEUA) mounted on a 1992 Centrury 1800 Center Console, I ONLY run 100% fuel, Quick Silver 2 stroke oil (pre-mix), Quick Silver gear oil.

119-120 compression on the cylinders

My Problem:
3.5 years ago had the power head rebuilt. Since then I kept getting a temp alarm. i took it back a couple of times and they said the head was warped because I over heated it but they put another rebuilt head on (supposedly) Also had new water pump installed in it (now 2 years old). I could run the boat from idle to 3400 RPM all day long but once I went over 3500 RPM I would get a temp alarm within a few minutes of cruise speed. I replaced the water pump ..... it kept doing it. I took it to the shop, they said I installed impeller backwards, it kept doing it after they installed another impeller. So after much debating and lots of money down the drain, I took the thermostats out (yes I know it is designed to run at a certain temp, but we have no problem getting to that temp in South Alabama I promise) When i removed the thermostat housing the Starboard side Thermostat came out in pieces. So I thought problem solved. NOPE... now get a temp alarm within minutes after throttling towards cruising speeds. Motor has never faltered. So I thought maybe I just had a bad sensor in one of the heads so today I put the muffs on and let the motor idle to let it heat up some. Dug out my handy dandy IR Thermometer and tada the port side was about 30 degees hotter than the starboard (I didn't leave it cranked long enough to get an alarm) the Starboard side head temp (area right around spark plug) was 150-166 degrees F which is what I would expect with no thermostats) the Ports side was running between 192 and 211 degrees. My Question is where do I start. Do I take it to a DEALER (lots of money) and have them put in a new water pump the stream is decent but I have seen it stronger. Or do I check else where? I have read about some water connections that need to be checked if your motor ever overheats but think i read where they are behind the crossflow cover... Any how any help is appreciated.

Thank You
 
Last edited:

Faztbullet

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Mar 2, 2008
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You have a 60 degree....install the new ficht style t-stat/poppet assy,springs and cap an replace impeller first. Make sure seasl are in head where t-stat/poppet seats.
 

bamabutch90

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First thank you for your answer. I will try to get the parts and do this soon but before I do

is there a place other than the main tag glued to the mid section mount where I can find my engine serial number. I looked at drawing online of my engine model number and my thermostat housing doesn't look like that. I got mymodel number from paperwork where I took it last time and when I went and checked the tag half of it was missing. I will see if I can take a picture of where they go when I get home and post it

thank you
 

bamabutch90

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I think the model number on my paperwork is wrong because this is what my motor looks like. it has big bubble looking part on back of motor and thermostats are down below that. Like I said I need to get home to verify the model number direct off of the motor.

51988.jpg
 

jakedaawg

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There may be a silver welch plug on top of cylinders that has model# stamped in it. Model # is what you need, not serial #.
 

jakedaawg

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No Title

Like this...
 

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daselbee

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If it is like your posted pic, it is a standard old v4 crossflow that has been around for years, and has at least two places to look for overheating issues, especially if it is only one side.

Place 1 is the head cover and cylinder head. These are two separate pieces. Under the head cover are water passages, and the gasket is not just a plain gasket in that it has holes in it to drain and direct water. Sand and salt and junk builds up under the head cover and gasket.

Place 2 is the water deflectors. You have to remove the heads to inspect the water deflectors. On your picture, they are reference number 10, and slide down into the water jacket in specific places. Emd has an excellent pic of both good and bad water deflectors.
 

bamabutch90

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I appreciate it. Ya'll have been a huge help. I am going to check all the things this weekend and let you know how it goes.

Respectively from a very appreciative broke boat owner
 

bob johnson

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looks like the power head and the TAG don't match....doesn't seem feasible that someone would or could put a crossflow power head onto a 60 degree looper midsection.....but I have never looked into that, so who knows.....your motor should have a T in the MODEL #

I don't have any experience with crossflows, so I cant help your overheat issue.....I have a 95 115 60 degree looper and for years I had the same issue you described.. but again.....my solutions wont apply to a crossflow


good luck

bob
 

bamabutch90

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So I didn't get to pull the head and check the water deflectors becasue it rained so much where I live. I did go check the tag on the motor against my paperwork and there is part the tag corroded off. I have E11 then part of tag missing with SXEUA.... After looking at my motor and the tag I am sure my Model number should be E115TSXEUA.... because it is definitely a crossflow motor. Any how I will post updates as I get them. One thing though. Does anyone have the head torque specs for whenI put this back together. I was looking though my manual and couldn't find them. attached are pictures of my engine


thank you
 

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bamabutch90

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Pulled the port head today after I got home from work and it was the deflectors and all kinds of trash and salt. Will try to post pictures tomorrow. Going to try to finish cleaning and reassembling tomorrow so I can try it this weekend
 

daselbee

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Pulled the port head today after I got home from work and it was the deflectors and all kinds of trash and salt. Will try to post pictures tomorrow. Going to try to finish cleaning and reassembling tomorrow so I can try it this weekend

Pics would be nice of the buildup. If you have it in the water jacket, YOU WILL HAVE IT UNDER THE HEAD COVER too.
 

bamabutch90

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Having a problem with logging and and posting pics from my phone but i pulled the head covers and head. Salt and trash and deformed water deflectors.

replacing today and will let ya'll know what the result is
 

bamabutch90

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So everything is reinstalled (after having to drill out a broken head bolt and 4 head cover bolts because some idiot thought it would be a great idea to put some pipe dope or thread locker on them). I haven't torqued everything down yet because trying to find the torques specs today. Here are some pics... please note this power head was supposedly rebuilt 3.5 years ago by an expert. Also worth noting I flush my motor religiously for about 30 minutes after each use. There is no way (in my ever so humble opinion) that this should be like this after only 3.5 years. Anyhow I will find the torque specs today and get everything torqued down and try it one afternoon this week.

Once again I really Appreciate everyone's help
 

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interalian

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Cylinder head screws are 18-20 lb/ft. Water jacket screws on head are 60-80 lb/in. Torque in three steps to 1/3, 2/3 then full torque. Head torque start in center and work out in increasing circle. And be sure to resurface the heads using a flat plate and medium grit sandpaper/emery cloth until flat.

Yes, that middle deflector rubber will definitely cause water restriction.
 

bamabutch90

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Yeah so my sage continues ... pulled the threads on two head bolts last night even though I was taking it slow and easy. right about the 13lb mark. anyhow guess its off to get a tap.... all I want to do is fish.
 

bamabutch90

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So had a lot pop up recently which delayed my repair. So I pulled the head and cleaned all of the crud and salt out of the port cylinder water jacket area... reinstalled and ran on muffs never got above 155 and both sides are heating evenly. Went and bought some saltaway and have flush my engine 3 times and can see (I say chunks) but definetly pieces of salt and such coming out of the exhaust with the water flow. Going to put the boat in the water this weekend and see how she does. Will let you know Monday has she worked.

Thank you everyone for all of your help
 

bamabutch90

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So i took my boat out after disassembling the port head and cleaning all of the junk out of the water jacket area and around the cylinders etc... Well I still got a temp alarm. Was running the boat around 4k rpm when it went off. slowed to idle and got back in and the alarm went off about minute after so tried to plane off again and now it want get above 3000 rpm. tried reving it at the dock up to 2k rpm but couldn't make it overheat again. So with winter fast approaching I am going to go the long way. tear down both sides, clean the fire out of everything, remove the exhaust (bubble cover) and top plate access to the water jacket, new thermostats, etc....

will let ya'll know how it goes.
 
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