Honda 9.9 Mid 90's Broken Cam pulley.

[rayjay]

I'm going to look at this motor today. The owner has had it since 1999. Says the crank is not locked up. This is what the ad says -------------------------------










This is a long shaft that broke the cam drive wheel and woodruff key. Possibly needs oil pump and impeller




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I've never had a 4 stroke outboard but do remember tales of 'making oil' on these forums. So what do the experts think ? He's asking $300 but I'm thinking more like $150 to $200. Been for sale for several weeks.

Thanks !!

 

[racerone]

I know of one that broke the belt pulley.-----An older model than 1999 year.---Owner had it fixed at a Honda shop.-----After that pulley repair it did not run well.----Took it to another shop and they declared that it was not repairable ( low compression ) it was said.------Owner sheepishly asked me if I had the time to look at it.-----Said " sure I can "-at my leisure.----Found a bent valve.----Installed a new valve and all was well again.-----Even owners wife thanked me for saving them a bunch of money.

 

[Alumarine]

Your market might be different than mine but I've bought 2 of those motors in good running condition for 250 and 400 respectively.

 

[rayjay]

The motor is in my van. It looks awesome on the inside. All the valves have normal lash [ bent valves have 1/8" or more ]. Oil looks awesome. With a new cam pulley, woodruff key and some tinkering this thing will most likely run fine. I need to figure out the year model and order some parts !!

 

[rayjay]

Your market might be different than mine but I've bought 2 of those motors in good running condition for 250 and 400 respectively.

Probably $800 to $1200 here in metro Atlanta for a nice motor.

 

[rayjay]

I found the year model chart which says 1999. The Honda PE parts page is for 2004 and newer. Where is a good place to look up the parts ? Thanks !!

 

[rayjay]

I was able to look up the parts on Parts Tree. The cam pulley is $158 !! Lots of bad engineering. Classic stress risers at the bottom of the key way. If the retaining bolt was adequately sized and or the pulley was an interference fit on the cam stub the woodruff key wouldn't be taking all the stress and trying to pound it's way through the pulley hub. I may try to make a hub out of steel and machine the cam pulley to mate with the new hub. Kinda like the adjustable pulleys you see for ohc performance car motors.

 

[rayjay]

I used aluminum instead of steel. I slit the new hub and added a pinch bolt so the new arrangement is really secure. The keyway in the cam was wallered out pretty bad so I used a worn down cutoff disc in my Dremel to clean it up and widen it just a tiny bit to use a 1/8" key from Ace hdwe. Worked well. There is a TON of time and thought in this set up. I bolted it up this afternoon and was able to run the motor for the first time. It did great.

 

[pvanv]

I know of one that broke the belt pulley.-----An older model than 1999 year.---Owner had it fixed at a Honda shop.-----After that pulley repair it did not run well.----Took it to another shop and they declared that it was not repairable ( low compression ) it was said.------Owner sheepishly asked me if I had the time to look at it.-----Said " sure I can "-at my leisure.----Found a bent valve.----Installed a new valve and all was well again.-----Even owners wife thanked me for saving them a bunch of money.

On an interference fit motor, if the cam stops while the motor turns, the odds of a bent valve are high. Good work, Rarerone!

 

[pvanv]

I used aluminum instead of steel. I slit the new hub and added a pinch bolt so the new arrangement is really secure. The keyway in the cam was wallered out pretty bad so I used a worn down cutoff disc in my Dremel to clean it up and widen it just a tiny bit to use a 1/8" key from Ace hdwe. Worked well. There is a TON of time and thought in this set up. I bolted it up this afternoon and was able to run the motor for the first time. It did great.

No shop would ever do that, as the cost to the customer would be obscene. as DIY project, it worked out fine. What method did you use to set timing?

 

[rayjay]

I milled off the bottom of the hub to just below the steel ign timing trigger plate. This means that the original keyway was still intact in the upper portion of the hub. Once the new lower hub was bolted to the upper portion I then chucked it all in the lathe chuck and used a boring bar with a carefully profiled 1/8" cutting tool to cut the rest of the keyway in the new hub. This was the first time I had ever used this technique and it was a piece of cake. The only problem was that the new key was about .003" oversize as compared to the cutting tool so I had to turn the lathe chuck a tiny amount and do some more stroking with the carriage to make the key fit. It's still very tight.

Anyway, since I aligned the new keyway in the lower part with the original keyway in the upper part there was no worry about the cam timing.

There is probably 20 hours of designing, problem solving, thinking about potential ways to screw up and then the actual parts fab. I was fortunate to have on hand some 3" x 1/2" alum bar that I could whittle down. Actually, the only thing I had to buy was the woodruff key. I did order about $120 worth of gaskets, plugs, carb gasket kit, cam belt, impeller kit, etc to get the motor water ready.