Throttle cable Adjustment - 95 70hp

[atengnr]

Hey, so I cannot seem to adjust cable to not overtravel and move butterflies past parallel at WOT. Is this supposed to be limited by cable adjust or is there a stop in the linkage on powerhead to prevent travel past parallel?

Thanks alot.

 

[Jiggz]

The adjustment is more on the link adjustment bar (rod with two clevis that connects the towershaft to the cam follower). You can shorten this by screwing in the clevis to reduce linear travel. You might have to adjust the idle after doing so.

 

[Nordin]

Yes as jiggz says, you adjust the throttle rod.
The cable and the remote control have a fixed travel (you can change it in the remote by change the connector hole depending of typ of remote control)

Then you have to adjust the idle by set the idle screw at timnig tower..

 

[jerryjerry05]

How far past horizontal?
It won't hurt it to be past it a little.

One of the top posts has a post that shows how to do a link and sync.

 

[atengnr]

Too far. Have to keep throttle lever well short of the stop on acceleration otherwise engine power drops off.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Then the link and sync needs to be done.

 

[atengnr]

Will do and thanks

 

[atengnr]

Did link/sync and after a stuck float needle at boat launch, motor ran great. Truly best running 2 stroke that I have owned.

So, I cruised at 24 mph (part throttle, slightly trimmed), on a 16 ft four winns, 3 in boat, for 45 minutes, and used about 4 gallons of fuel. Is this about right for a 70hp 2 stroke?

Also, with this motor and lack of release of power trim, how do you all trailer your boat? Do you use a transom saver despite lack of release?

Lastly, 2 stroke oil. I am generally an oil snob, and had been using BRP full synthetic oil in my looper 55hp, but with this new to me larger boat and engine, I dont want to spend that much money on oil if I dont need to. What oil is the best for force motors? Is the synthetic blend quicksilver good?

Thanks

 

[Jiggz]

TCW-3 oil is what is required. I buy the cheapest I can get from Wally World and if out of stock then I get the Penzoil Marine XLF or Plus. So does your motor comes with Power Tilt and Trim (T&T)? For trailering, there is a trailering bar (bracket) that the motor rest on. There are holes on the transom for this.

 

[jerryjerry05]

To lift the drive and the T@T not working.
There is NO release screw like some other motors have.

The front hyd. line you can loosen it and the motor should be able to lift.
Be careful when trying.
The fitting's been on there for a while.
Use a line wrench.

Have used Walmart oil for ever and will use it in the future.

 

[atengnr]

THanks. My tilt/trim is all good, but my question is how you all trailer the boat with a non releasable trim motor?? Do you all use transom savers still despite not being able to unload the trim?

Thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

Like Jiggz mentioned, trailering bar.
Has a cotter pin to hold it in place.

 

[Jiggz]

Here's what it looks like. I believe this was made by the boat maker instead of the engine manufacturer. Although, you can always fabricate one.

 

[atengnr]

Thanks. Why use this vs a transom saver?

 

[Jiggz]

Either or will work but this is the one that came with my boat and it works perfectly. Personally, this bracket leaves the motor just high enough and prevents it from bouncing up when you hit a bump on the road. A t-saver tilts the motor higher as I have seen from other boats using them.

 

[atengnr]

does impact loading on the tilt cylinder from road bumps matter?

 

[Jiggz]

Not really sure, but I've heard the tilt cylinder rod getting bent when hitting logs or bottom at high speed.

 

[atengnr]

You dont live in michigan I suspect.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I used to live there.
The tilt/ bars, they have the motor past the end of the Trim plunger.
If the motor rode on the trim and bounced up and down it can hurt the valves in the pump
I know I did it.

The important thing is have it tilted up and secured.
Riding on the tilt bar is far enough and so is a transom saver.