1990 force 50 hp will not rev

[jbgdbg01]

Hello All, I have a 1990 Force 50 hp outboard. It shifts into forward and reverse fine. I disconnected the throttle cable and it moves fine. I just can't get it to rev up. It seems like the linkage is locked? Any ideas? help please! what am I missing?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Is the shifter stuck in Fast idle?
Or the cables on wrong?

 

[jbgdbg01]

The cables are right, as proof I can put it in forward and reverse like normal. As far as the idle it is idling at about 1500 rpms. It is very weird. I'm late getting it out this year. Ran fine last year.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Try unhooking the cable ends at the motor.
Then try shifting and see if the cable moves.
Then operate the linkage by hand.

 

[jbgdbg01]

I checked the cables and they move easily. With the cable disconnected the linkage felt like something had it locked. I could not move it. I was thinking I was missing something. Do you think it is just stuck or frozen? I did spray the linkage with WD40.

 

[Jiggz]

Most likely, the tower shaft is stuck somewhere. Disconnect the control cable from the tower linkage and you should be able to move the tower freely albeit with a little resistance.

There are two mech connections on the tower, the cam throttle and the timing advance rod that goes to the trigger plate. If the tower is frozen, disconnect one mech connection at a time while checking the tower for free movement. I'll start with the timing advance rod to the trigger plate, since this is most likely where it is frozen.

 

[jbgdbg01]

Thank you, I will start there. If the timing advance rod is frozen (witch I think is the problem from what I have seen) what is the fix?

 

[jerryjerry05]

If the trigger 's frozen, the flywheel comes off and the trigger removed, cleaned and lubed.
Or try a can of WD and spray up under the flywheel and try to hit the trigger base.
Don't spray the starter.

 

[Jiggz]

Do as Jerry said but note the following:
1. Removing the trigger plate and its associated parts, i.e. rods, nuts, etc affects timing. Make sure you mark everything as you go through the disassembly. After marking always take pics with your phone for further reference.
2. Spraying WD-40 or oil penetrant can have adverse affect on the insulating varnish on the trigger and stator wires. Use it sparingly.

 

[jbgdbg01]

Hey Guy's Thank you! I didn't get a chance to work on it tonight. I'm hoping to work on it tomorrow. Yes, I agree, lots of pictures as you go saves the day.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I should have added: if you remove the flywheel??
Don't undo the linkage on the trigger.

 

[jbgdbg01]

Hey Guy's, That is the exact problem! I removed the timing advance rod from the linkage and the throttle moved freely. I have to get a gear puller to pull the flywheel. Once I get the flywheel off, what is the best way/product to use to clean and lube the trigger so it won't freeze up?

Thanks

 

[jbgdbg01]

P.S. I was able to move the trigger a little bit by hand with much effort. I'm thinking pulling the flywheel off will be the best way to clean it up good and lube it. What's your thoughts?

 

[Jiggz]

Great! You're more than half way in resolving you problem. I do not believe there's a need to grease the trigger plate but do require to be sparkling clean. If any, you can apply a very thin film of teflon lube. Let me remind you, pulling a flywheel that's been in for almost 30 years is not an easy feat. Try loosening it first if you can slowly but surely and then clean it up with pressurized air ( less than 30 psi) and apply a spray on teflon lube.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I use a little marine grease or white lithium.

The flywheel: I use a BIG 3 jaw puller.
Loosen, don't remove the nut.
Install the puller and tighten it a LOT.
Then hit the top of the puller with a 3# hammer.
Gloves and safety glasses a MUST!!

In severe cases the old hot wrench might be needed.
Heat around the end of the crank, not on it.

Saw my old boss do this without gloves and he ended up with a cut between his thumb and finger
and about 20 stiches.