What tools needed to check over an old project bass boat before buying?

[Matt129]

Hello everyone, I am going to look at an old fiberglass project bass boat tomorrow and I’m wondering what tools I should bring to give it a once over?

 

[jbcurt00]

1984 Glasstream Hydrabass 17ft

Hello everyone. I’m considering buying a 1984 Glasstream Hydrabass with a Mercury tower of power 150hp on it as a project boat. Do any of you know if Glasstream boats were any good quality compared to like a Ranger or something? I can hardly find any info on them online. Thanks for any help you...

forums.iboats.com

 

[briangcc]

I highly doubt the seller is going to let you drill into their boat before you buy it. So this is going to be an eyeball test....open hatches, compartments, etc. Review the boat buying sticky if you haven't already.

For New Members Needing help buying a boat. A Buyer's Checklist.

All of the Iboaters know that we frequently have new members checking in and asking about wether or not to purchase this that or the other boat. After speaking to a Mod (Thanks BobVT) I have decided to use a previous post to create a check list of things to check when purchasing a new boat...

forums.iboats.com

Call me crazy but I thought you bought this already?? If it's yours already, break out the drill, get as close to the hull bottom as you can, and sample the stringers and transom. Bet they're wet and you're in for a much larger project than most want. **Ie...you won't be fishing any tournaments anytime soon in this boat.

 

[shrew]

Hello everyone, I am going to look at an old fiberglass project bass boat tomorrow and I’m wondering what tools I should bring to give it a once over?

Rubber mallet for sounding the hull
Moisture meter for testing for water saturation

Honestly, if you don't know what you need, then you don't know what to look for or how to look. If so, you're not in a position to be effectively surveying a vessel.

 

[Matt129]

I highly doubt the seller is going to let you drill into their boat before you buy it. So this is going to be an eyeball test....open hatches, compartments, etc. Review the boat buying sticky if you haven't already.

For New Members Needing help buying a boat. A Buyer's Checklist.

All of the Iboaters know that we frequently have new members checking in and asking about wether or not to purchase this that or the other boat. After speaking to a Mod (Thanks BobVT) I have decided to use a previous post to create a check list of things to check when purchasing a new boat...

forums.iboats.com

Call me crazy but I thought you bought this already?? If it's yours already, break out the drill, get as close to the hull bottom as you can, and sample the stringers and transom. Bet they're wet and you're in for a much larger project than most want. **Ie...you won't be fishing any tournaments anytime soon in this boat.

Sorry I was unclear earlier, going to look at the boat today it’s not mine quite yet lol but probably will be buying. And I already know some of the tools to bring I just wanted to make sure I hadn’t forgotten anything lol. Thanks for getting back to me so quick

 

[Scott Danforth]

I suggest you drive it to a scale. if the boat is 100# heavier or more, you have water coming in that large gash in the bottom of the boat.

rubber mallet and beating on the boat will show nothing

Im with Brian in post #3, willing to bet that the stringers and transom are wet or rotten.

 

[roscoe]

Battery, jumper cables, compression tester, wrenches.

That boat has not been stored inside or under cover. The finish is gone. It is currently sitting bow down and catching/holding all the rain water.

The trailer MAY be worth $500, can't tell.
The motor May be worth $300, can't tell.

But the motor may cost you $1000 to get running.
The trailer may cost you $700 to make safe.

AND the boat could easily cost you $4,000 , along with 200 hours of labor, to rebuild.

So go take that $6000 and buy something that is ready to go.

 

[Matt129]

Battery, jumper cables, compression tester, wrenches.

That boat has not been stored inside or under cover. The finish is gone. It is currently sitting bow down and catching/holding all the rain water.

The trailer MAY be worth $500, can't tell.
The motor May be worth $300, can't tell.

But the motor may cost you $1000 to get running.
The trailer may cost you $700 to make safe.

AND the boat could easily cost you $4,000 , along with 200 hours of labor, to rebuild.

So go take that $6000 and buy something that is ready to go.

Ok I have new info, all the motor needs is a small cheap part on the distributor and a wire and it will run, the trailer needs tires soon but it’s not bad, it comes with two trolling motors, one that works and an extra one for parts if it ever needs one. the deck and all compartments are all solid and so is the transom it seems. I was able to get my hand under the floatation foam a little bit and it seems dry and hard. I think I may have gotten lucky on this one . The only thing is that it does have some dirt and gunk underneath the deck that could cause rot if I don’t clean it out. How can I clean out the gunk and check the stringers out without ripping up the deck lol? Also one other thing wrong with the boat is that the little plate that gives the boat’s specifications and max horsepower rating etc. is missing. How can I get a new one of those plates or is it even possible lol? Also just to answer an earlier question it was stored under a cover until recently according to the owner.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ok I have new info, all the motor needs is a small cheap part on the distributor and a wire and it will run, the trailer needs tires soon but it’s not bad, it comes with two trolling motors, one that works and an extra one for parts if it ever needs one. the deck and all compartments are all solid and so is the transom it seems. I was able to get my hand under the floatation foam a little bit and it seems dry and hard. I think I may have gotten lucky on this one . The only thing is that it does have some dirt and gunk underneath the deck that could cause rot if I don’t clean it out. How can I clean out the gunk and check the stringers out without ripping up the deck lol? Also one other thing wrong with the boat is that the little plate that gives the boat’s specifications and max horsepower rating etc. is missing. How can I get a new one of those plates or is it even possible lol? Also just to answer an earlier question it was stored under a cover until recently according to the owner.

there is no way you reached the flotation foam under the deck

 

[Matt129]

there is no way you reached the flotation foam under the deck

I could reach some sort of foam from the rear compartment near the gas tank.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I could reach some sort of foam from the rear compartment near the gas tank.

the foam that is sprayed on the bottom side of the cap is never in contact with water unless there is a breach in the hull. the foam that is under the deck in between the stringers is what gets waterlogged and rots the deck after the stringers get wet.

as stated before, weight the boat, motor and trailer and compare to spec.

 

[Matt129]

the foam that is sprayed on the bottom side of the cap is never in contact with water unless there is a breach in the hull. the foam that is under the deck in between the stringers is what gets waterlogged and rots the deck after the stringers get wet.

as stated before, weight the boat, motor and trailer and compare to spec.

Where can I find the specs for this boat? I can hardly find anything online about it and the capacity plate is missing. It’s a 1984 or 86 17’ Glasstream Hydrabass with a 150 horsepower Mercury inline 6.

 

[Alumarine]

You should find out what the "small cheap part on the distributor" is and how much it costs. Some of the distributor parts certainly aren't cheap.
If the motor is cheap and easy to fix why hasn't it been fixed?

 

[Matt129]

You should find out what the "small cheap part on the distributor" is and how much it costs. Some of the distributor parts certainly aren't cheap.
If the motor is cheap and easy to fix why hasn't it been fixed?

The owner said it’s been in the family for a while and it ran up until recently when he bought it from his brother in law. As far as I can tell the only part the distributor needs is the small spring loaded pin in the top of the cap, and it needs a small wire that goes from the distributor to the starter. He said the reason he didn’t really work on it is that he got an old tracker aluminum boat and it worked better for the waters he fished in because it could go shallower than the Glasstream so he never really bothered with it even though technically the Glasstream is in better shape. He had to replace the entire deck on the tracker but the deck on the Glasstream is still solid.

 

[Alumarine]

Have you looked to see if you can get the carbon contact separately?
The cap itself is around $170-$200 never mind the rotor if needed.

 

[Scott Danforth]

take compression readings on the motor. specifically cylinder #3 which is the first to go lean and eat itself on the TOP's

 

[JimS123]

The owner said it’s been in the family for a while and it ran up until recently when he bought it from his brother in law. As far as I can tell the only part the distributor needs is the small spring loaded pin in the top of the cap, and it needs a small wire that goes from the distributor to the starter. He said the reason he didn’t really work on it is that he got an old tracker aluminum boat and it worked better for the waters he fished in because it could go shallower than the Glasstream so he never really bothered with it even though technically the Glasstream is in better shape. He had to replace the entire deck on the tracker but the deck on the Glasstream is still solid.

If I had an old piecocrap and was trying to get rid of it, that's exactly what I would say.

If I was selling a non-running motor that only needed a cheap part, I would replace it myself. It would ensure a much higher selling price.

When USCG plates are missing, there is always a reason.

40 year old boats that are NOT rotten to the core are one in a million.

 

[Matt129]

take compression readings on the motor. specifically cylinder #3 which is the first to go lean and eat itself on the TOP's

I checked cylinder no. 3 and it has less compression than the others but still over 100psi

 

[Matt129]

Have you looked to see if you can get the carbon contact separately?
The cap itself is around $170-$200 never mind the rotor if needed.

It looks like the carbon contact can be had for $10 lol, but I’m not sure that’s the only issue. I made a makeshift contact out of a screw and cleaned up the rotor somewhat but still no spark. Do you think this is my contraption or another issue? Also on the body of the distributor one of the 3 wires are ripped off nearly at the hole where it comes out. Is there a way I can dismantle the distributor and splice in a new wire there? Also, is there any way a wire on the key switch could cause the engine not to have spark but to crank? I only ask because there is a loose ground wire to something lol.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I checked cylinder no. 3 and it has less compression than the others but still over 100psi

you know that that motor has close to 150psi on the cylinders new. so its been overheated or run lean for cylinder #3 to be down to 100 psi