The well traveled 1979 Starcraft 18' V5 SS

Patfromny

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Dec 2, 2012
Messages
1,197
I really like the Allen head idea WM. I'm not sure but I think my new to me motor has them. I seem to remember thinking that was a clever idea. I have no use for flat head screws. No idea why they didn't just use an Allen head to begin with.

very funny GA, you gave me a good giggle with the last post. A Phillips might work on an Allen head too.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
I think the slotted ones are metric and the allen are standard. :eyebrows:

You can even get the magnetic drain plug with the allen.

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Man today would've been a great day to go out in the boat for a 2nd sea trial, was no wind and 70. Alas I had other things to do but I did tow the boat around and get some fuel in it and my truck. Weather is supposed to be not so good tomorrow but I'm gonna go for it.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Oh hey I found security cam footage of the out the door event and some arm buffing of left over Aerospace 303 Quick Wax. :lol:

 

DLNorth

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 26, 2016
Messages
432
Allen heads strip out way too easy, especially in SS. Torx would be much better. Allen is better then Phillips but not much else.
The problem with straight is many folks don't use the correct size driver to install/remove, and bugger up the fastener.

Dan

[FONT=Arial said:
No idea why they didn't just use an Allen head to begin with[/FONT]
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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49,038
The old arm buff. :lol:

You know someone will ask where you found this "new" boat, She looks good even coming out of hiding.
 

budski

Lieutenant Commander
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Sep 12, 2012
Messages
1,845
Hey Rob, I'm thinking once you get that merc running properly with the carb and all it should do about at least 50 mph, we did 51 mph with a 2001 merc 125 on one of out V5's with 2 people in it.
 

Watermann

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Yeah John come to find out my big Merc is having more than leaky carb and bad fuel pump issues fortunately the problems are not serious just more parts I need. So I took the boat out yesterday, fired right off, ran ok but would only get 5k rpms this time and sounded boggy. Then it ran up to 5800 a while later with some issues again bogging out on the hole shot. Also the idle was crazy high around 1300 rpms now.

Got home and checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner and found nowhere I sprayed it made an idle difference. I got it to idle down some and then decided to do a link n sync. I hooked up my timing light and found #1 fired then it didn't and so on most of the time it wouldn't fire. When I started testing and pulled all the plugs out I found #6 plug looked new except for unburned premix on it. So I got 42 MPH out of 5 cylinders and 36 out of 4. :lol: good lord.

I tested out the coils moving the wire for #1 from the switch box to the #2 coil that was firing hot and it worked 100% whew that switch box is good, bad coil. Remember I said that coil had a loose ground jumper wire and it was sparking well that toasted that coil and it had oil leaking out too.

I hoped the same is true with coil #6 and that it's toasted as well. BUT the coil tested out fine and lead #6 from the switch box would not charge coil 5 and coil 6 fired off with wire 5. If you follow all that it means that the switch box has a dead #6. Ugg they are expensive even aftermarket Sierra or CDI. Oh well, this old motor is strong just old and some new parts should give it back it's life.
 

strokendiesel002

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
283
I have to ask, did you check lead 6 for continuity? Is it possible to use a test light to check the post on the switch box for power when it's supposed to fire? I had to replace those wire sets on mine. I opted for CDI, overall, I was pleased
 

Watermann

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Thanks for taking the time to read all that Stroker, yeah all good with zeros on the meter for the #6 lead. My wires are in good shape except for 2 of the stator wires I cut back to good and replaced for the rectifier.

I don't have a multi meter that will read that kind of voltage and I'm afraid it would pop a light bulb in my test light. I know lead 6 won't fire up a coil and even if some power came through and lighted the bulb it probably wouldn't be enough juice to fire the coil.
 
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strokendiesel002

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
283
Of course! Least we can do is take the time to read what each other takes the time to write and share! I replaced my switch box years ago for nauht. It was a bad wire.that was humbling. No more rushing through the basics after that lol
 
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Pusher

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Sep 2, 2014
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1,273
I saw there were some $40 unbranded ones on evil bay for my merc. Not sure if it would be worth risking if they fit your motor though... Might fry everything like an EMP blast!
 

Watermann

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Not much into blasts under the motor cowl :lol:

I ordered 2 new Sierra switch boxes from here at iboats and a coil. Read up and learned you should always replace both boxes and not use one from the 70's with a new revision box or you'll end up buying 2 more. :eek:

I can see me popping for a new trigger and stator down the road too just so I have an all new starting point. I'm also going to get a voltage regulator so I don't have to look at a pegged gauge at 16v all the time.

Looking forward to seeing how well she'll do running on all 6 jugs. :D
 

Brackett221

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Joined
May 27, 2015
Messages
75
Sorry I'm late to the SPLASH! Congrats!!! I'm now back up to current on your thread. She turn out super! Glad your getting all the bugs worked out before your going on regular trips. I wish I could have been working on mine. Between work, family activities and family illness... I've had no time to work on projects. I would like to see a vid. of it running on 6 jugs!!
 

laurentide

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
1,869
Not sure how I missed the maiden voyage, but congrats! Another outstanding finished product. I hope you get the misfire figured out...it should definitely push 50 with all 6 firing. That's awesome. It really looks great.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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I'm still working on the Merc, thanks for checking in. Won't be out this weekend still waiting for more parts since I keep digging deeper.

New for the Merc:

Rectifier
Coil
2x switch boxes
Stator
Internal wiring harness
Ignition switch (found it bleeding DC volts into kill wire which will kill new switch boxes.)

Glad I had the right tool to pull that flywheel, a puller and a rattle gun.

Design flaw in the livewell as it won't drain with just one fitting and a standpipe, hatch is airtight so I have to make another overflow drain out the side of the boat that's open all the time.
 

Pusher

Lieutenant
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Sep 2, 2014
Messages
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Ignition switch (found it bleeding DC volts into kill wire which will kill new switch boxes.)

Glad I had the right tool to pull that flywheel, a puller and a rattle gun.

Design flaw in the livewell as it won't drain with just one fitting and a standpipe, hatch is airtight so I have to make another overflow drain out the side of the boat that's open all the time.

That would have been a terrible discovery! I didn't even know that was a thing. You're going to have one dependable machine when you're done.

Could you splice the breather line into your bilge hose? I don't think it would be an issue since the livewell would have positive pressure when using the bilge pump...? :-/
 

Watermann

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My goal is to have the Merc run as good or better than new and as I dug into the old motor deeper I went from frustrated with the mess to determined. I was intimidated by the wiring strung seemingly all over on the motor but now after removing every terminal and wire, I see it as being super simple as my mind can now connect every last wire on the motor.
- wired in new switch boxes.
- new coil on #1
- rectifier replaced
- flywheel removed stator out (trigger wires look just fine, I'm surprised but think it may have been replaced at one point)
- internal wiring harness removed
Waiting on stator, harness and ign switch to arrive.

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The LW, I would essentially have what I have now with the standpipe if I plumbed the new overflow drain into the same line. My resto buddies Smokercraft is set up with an overflow out the side and the drain goes out the stern. My SN is set up with the overflow and drain T'd into one drain but the livewells are different in height, size and position in the boat not too mention aren't sealed tight.
- got my spare 1-1/8" thru the hull fitting in the LW. (always have an extra in stock)
Waiting on 2 more fittings to arrive and the 1-1/8" LW drain hose.
 
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