Sylvan 1980 18' Sportster IO

[jbcurt00]

Those rivets indicate (not guarantee) that there is an added plate between the ribs making the corner joint (chine) between the hull bottom and the hull sides less prone to flexing. Look thru Watermann's and ClassicCat's rebuilds, they made similar modifications to both their rigs. The rib ends and hull beneath them have shown signs of stress cracking. In severe cases, the hull has split along the chine rail. There has been speculation that when SC laid the carpet/vinyl originally, they used a razor knife to cut it to fit. Some splits and cracking show up along what appears to be a score line, possibly from the carpet knife.

The time frame escapes me, but at some point SC had a factory rehab program where the plates were likely added to address cracking while the hull was under warranty. That's somewhat speculative, but there is evidence suggesting they did some of these types of added bracing to some hulls.

Having this large collection of SCs, you can compare the known history of the same boat. 2 of the same year and model boats, 1 has the plates and 1 doesn't.

Grandad also added the plates to his Holiday during it's rebuild to prevent further cracking.

At some point, SC did in fact start to have the plates installed during production to all their larger hulls. Again, speculation supported by multiple boats w/out plates w/ evidence of cracking up to a certain year, then after that the plates are present in almost all the rebuild hulls.

 

[Alumarine]

Those rivets indicate (not guarantee) that there is an added plate between the ribs making the corner joint (chine) between the hull bottom and the hull sides less prone to flexing. Look thru Watermann's and ClassicCat's rebuilds, they made similar modifications to both their rigs. The rib ends and hull beneath them have shown signs of stress cracking. In severe cases, the hull has split along the chine rail. There has been speculation that when SC laid the carpet/vinyl originally, they used a razor knife to cut it to fit. Some splits and cracking show up along what appears to be a score line, possibly from the carpet knife.

The time frame escapes me, but at some point SC had a factory rehab program where the plates were likely added to address cracking while the hull was under warranty. That's somewhat speculative, but there is evidence suggesting they did some of these types of added bracing to some hulls.

Having this large collection of SCs, you can compare the known history of the same boat. 2 of the same year and model boats, 1 has the plates and 1 doesn't.

Grandad also added the plates to his Holiday during it's rebuild to prevent further cracking.

At some point, SC did in fact start to have the plates installed during production to all their larger hulls. Again, speculation supported by multiple boats w/out plates w/ evidence of cracking up to a certain year, then after that the plates are present in almost all the rebuild hulls.

Good to know. Something for me to check out when I remove the deck.

 

[dozerII]

Thanks, yes, it looks likes it ran into something at a pretty good clip. When you say 18SS do you mean the StarCraft Supersport?

Yes that correct.

 

[GA_Boater]

We don't need a sub-forum when this is obviously a Monday or Friday built SS and the spell-checker on the decal maker machine was busted. LOL

Nice looking piece of tin, Marc. Welcome aboard

 

[Alumarine]

We don't need a sub-forum when this is obviously a Monday or Friday built SS and the spell-checker on the decal maker machine was busted. LOL

Nice looking piece of tin, Marc. Welcome aboard

Good one, thanks for the welcome all. I'll be looking for some advice in some separate threads.

 

[laurentide]

Good one, thanks for the welcome all. I'll be looking for some advice in some separate threads.

Just keep it right here in this thread to make it simple for those of us following your progress.

 

[GA_Boater]

Good one, thanks for the welcome all. I'll be looking for some advice in some separate threads.

Please keep the boat questions in a single thread. It gets too confusing when multiple threads are started and they all relate to the boat itself By all means, start separate motor and trailer threads in their forums.

 

[Alumarine]

Please keep the boat questions in a single thread. It gets too confusing when multiple threads are started and they all relate to the boat itself By all means, start separate motor and trailer threads in their forums.

Ok, got it. That makes perfect sense. Not used to doing a "restoration" type of thing.
I already made another about a kicker. I wonder if it should be merged with this one?
thanks

 

[GA_Boater]

Ok, got it. That makes perfect sense. Not used to doing a "restoration" type of thing.
I already made another about a kicker. I wonder if it should be merged with this one?
thanks

The kicker one is fine, Marc. What I'm talking about is what wood to use for the floor, another for leaky rivets and one for mounting seats - That kind of thing. Sometimes guys start new threads for every little thing and it leads to confusion and a Mod ends up merging them all together any way.

You're OK.

 

[Alumarine]

Was wondering if anyone has put screens in the intake and exhaust scoops on their I/O's?
I've already managed to drop a socket and a nut down the blower exhaust which led to removing the blower to get them out and I don't need extra work right now.

I was going to cut out a piece of screen but thought there may be a better ready made solution out there.

 

[Watermann]

I've thought about it to keep the freaking bees from going in to nest. For your issue I would think a hand towel stuffed in the vent would suffice while your working on the boat.

 

[Alumarine]

I've thought about it to keep the freaking bees from going in to nest. For your issue I would think a hand towel stuffed in the vent would suffice while your working on the boat.

That's a good idea. I'm going out to do that right now.

 

[Alumarine]

Update, I found something to use as a screen for my scoops that's quick and easy to install.
I walked up and down every aisle at home depot and came across Rain Gutter Strainers.

 

[Alumarine]

Ok guys, I'm back.
Actually haven't been anywhere but I've been working on mechanical and electrical stuff.

Starting to replace my transom. I've removed the old transom.
I've included a picture as I know how much you guys like pictures.

Old one was worse than I thought it would be, but not as bad as it could be.
There is some corrosion which I'll remove and I'll fill any pitting.
I've read about a 100 restoration pages and have a few questions for the Starmada.

I've have 2 sheets of 3/4" G1S fir plywood.
I've cut 2 pieces out that are a few inches wider and longer that what I'll need.
I'll be using the 100% waterproof Original Gorilla Glue.
For clamping I'll use wood screws which I will remove most of if not all of them later.

Should I use spar varnish between the sheets I'm gluing together?

I'll use the old transom as a template to cut out the new one.

Should I temporarily install the new transom into the boat and use the holes in the transom skin to mark the holes I have to drill?

I'll use Spar varnish on the outside and edges.
Will the Spar varnish be suitable for covering the screw holes from the removed clamping screws?

Would there be a benefit to using Gluvit on the edges and the screw holes?

Any help is appreciated and I'm sure I'll have more questions. Thanks

 

[dozerII]

Hey Marc good to see you at it. You want bare wood for the Gorilla glue to penetrate, and don't forget to lightly mist one side very lightly with water before sticking them together. I have always just hit my screw holes with liberal amounts of spar varnish letting it flow inside real good. I also think the spar will penetrate beter than gluvit would.
Yes once you have the transom final fit done clamp it in place then drill your holes using the skin as a guide. I have a piece of 1" steel plate with a 1/4 in and 1/2 in hole drilled in with a drill press, that I use to drill though to ensure the correct angle. If you don't have steel a good piece oak would do the same.

 

[Alumarine]

Hi Glen, thanks for the prompt response.
Glad to get a confirmation that I'm on the right track.

I'm sure I'll have a number of other questions as I go along.

Great idea about using a block as a guide. I'll have to dig one up.
I tried to find a Drill Guide but they're not readily available up here.

 

[Watermann]

I like that poly glue, it's been good to me so far on both the transoms I've done and will use it on the 3rd one here shortly. I have a stiff bristle wire scrub type brush that I use to scuff up the surface of the ply prior to laminating them together just to break any surface tension to allow the glue to penetrate best it can. If you do be sure to wipe the surface down first to get the dust off. I use a moist rag to wipe the ply piece that isn't getting the glue right before I put them together. Good luck and don't scrape the squeeze out or cut the wood for a couple days even though it says cured in 6 hours.

After filling the pits in the inside transom skin I like to SE prime and paint it. I also paint my transom wood too. If the corrosion on the skin was bad, check the Z bracket the transom sits in for corrosion, lots of times it gets in behind it and will continue to eat away if not removed and cleaned out.

 

[Alumarine]

I like that poly glue, it's been good to me so far on both the transoms I've done and will use it on the 3rd one here shortly. I have a stiff bristle wire scrub type brush that I use to scuff up the surface of the ply prior to laminating them together just to break any surface tension to allow the glue to penetrate best it can. If you do be sure to wipe the surface down first to get the dust off. I use a moist rag to wipe the ply piece that isn't getting the glue right before I put them together. Good luck and don't scrape the squeeze out or cut the wood for a couple days even though it says cured in 6 hours.

After filling the pits in the inside transom skin I like to SE prime and paint it. I also paint my transom wood too. If the corrosion on the skin was bad, check the Z bracket the transom sits in for corrosion, lots of times it gets in behind it and will continue to eat away if not removed and cleaned out.

Thanks for the tips to check out the Z bracket. I'll check it out.
What do you mean by SE prime?

Also, how much glue do I use?
I have a plastic putty knife thing that has serrations in it. Should I make sure there is an even coat all over like a tile job?

I plan on leaving it dry for a couple of days.

BTW I'm going to steal your idea to use 3/4" ply to remake my transom cover supports but that's a question in a week or two.

 

[Watermann]

SE= Self Etching

Amount of glue 2- 8 oz bottles or 1- 18 oz, depending on the cost, sometimes it's cheaper just to get more. It will stay good for quite some time if you squeeze the air out of the bottle before capping it. I just used a wide blade putty knife to move the glue around evenly until the woods coated with a nice layer, you don't want too much or it will just foam out and of course not enough isn't good either. You'll be able to tell when you start putting it on. There'll be left overs so don't think you have to use it all.

 

[Decker83]

The SE primer is Self Etching primer..