Surge to electric over hydraulic low cost conversion

[nailem]

I have an 05' Boat Mate dual axle trailer with typical surge brake set up on one axle with disks. I only tow a couple times a year. one 1200 round trip and one 800 mile round trip. the surge brakes work fine but I have the typical surge brake problems. The trip I just got back from was to a lake house in TN where the last 20 miles are steep, twisty roads and it just rides the brakes on the trailer the whole time. On my last truck (05' Duramax) I wired in a switch that I could hit and power the back up solenoid and cancel out the trailer brakes. this worked ok but the Duramax was a big heavy truck. My new rig is a 14' Ram 1500 EcoDiesel and I think the truck is too light to do this.
So I don't want to spend $800-$1000 to put electric over hydraulic brakes on. is there any way to do it less expensive? Does anyone know of a trailer salvage yard that I could check to see if they have any good parts for sale?

 

[oldjeep]

Too light? A Ram 1500 weighs nearly 3 tons.

 

[smokeonthewater]

At one point I considered designing my own system with a used ABS pump and an orifice controlled constant return line but decided it wasn't worth the hassle. I went with all electric brakes for MUCH less money than E/H and couldn't be happier.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...-towing/605088-my-new-electric-trailer-brakes

 

[oldjeep]

He might be able to do a conversion, but it depends. The newer Boatmate trailers like mine use a UFP vault hub system and you may or may not be able to actually retrofit disc brakes to it without replacing the entire torsion arm/hub assembly. Not sure if a 2005 would have it or not.

 

[oldjeep]

Scratch that - looks like UFP stuff is all disc

In any event there is no "cheap" solution. $700 for an electric/hydraulic actuator or somewhere near the same cost to retrofit electric brakes.

 

[bruceb58]

I have this E/H unit. I also have Kodiak disk brakes with it. Personally, I would never go back to drum brakes no matter what type.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brak.../T4813100.html

I would also never wire in a switch to turn off the surge brakes going down a hill.

 

[nailem]

Too light? A Ram 1500 weighs nearly 3 tons.

yes, I feel the truck is too light to try to stop my boat (05' Centurion sv230) on the scale it was 6850lbs, that's nearly the same as the truck.

I do have UFP disk brakes. so does that mean I can convert to electric? I have always though you could not use electric brakes on a boat trailer???

 

[bruceb58]

duplicate post

 

[bruceb58]

I am amazed you only have brakes on one axle. I would be adding it to the second axle immediately.

I was in the same boat as you. Similar towed load going from a 3/4T to a 1/2T. Switched to disk brakes on both axles and the E/H.

 

[nailem]

I have this E/H unit. I also have Kodiak disk brakes with it. Personally, I would never go back to drum brakes no matter what type.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brak.../T4813100.html

I would also never wire in a switch to turn off the surge brakes going down a hill.

The switch was only used when I got on the back twisty mountain roads at low speeds maybe 30mph tops. My Duramax had plenty of stopping power. With out it by the time I get to the house the discs are practically glowing.

 

[oldjeep]

yes, I feel the truck is too light to try to stop my boat (05' Centurion sv230) on the scale it was 6850lbs, that's nearly the same as the truck.

I do have UFP disk brakes. so does that mean I can convert to electric? I have always though you could not use electric brakes on a boat trailer???

You would have to do some measuring, UFP doesn't seem to sell electric brakes. So you would need to see if they are using a mounting plate or flange pattern that was compatible with some other brand of caliper.

 

[nailem]

I just don't tow enough to spend that kind of money. I would look at adding discs to the other axle but it still remains that I don't want to spend $800 or more on the E/H conversion and I don't think adding discs to the other axle without switching out the surge brake would help much.
Does anyone know of a place that sells used equipment?

 

[oldjeep]

I just don't tow enough to spend that kind of money. I would look at adding discs to the other axle but it still remains that I don't want to spend $800 or more on the E/H conversion and I don't think adding discs to the other axle without switching out the surge brake would help much.
Does anyone know of a place that sells used equipment?

Well, you have to pay to play. I don't think I'd be using used brake parts even if you could find them. Seems odd that Boatmate only put brakes on the one axle, is it not a requirement in your state to have them on both? In any event you are correct, adding them would not solve your downhill issue.

 

[bruceb58]

In any event you are correct, adding them would not solve your downhill issue.

Except that they wouldn't be glowing by the time he got down to the bottom of his hill because he is overly taxing his current brakes with having them on only one axle.

My boat trailer came with brakes on only one axle too. First thing I did was ad brakes to the second.

 

[oldjeep]

Except that they wouldn't be glowing by the time he got down to the bottom of his hill because he is overly taxing his current brakes with having them on only one axle.

My boat trailer came with brakes on only one axle too. First thing I did was ad brakes to the second.

They would still be glowing if the actuator is half actuating his brakes when he is just driving down a hill and not trying to stop.

 

[bruceb58]

It would be reducing the force on the original brakes by half. Having brakes on one axle with a 6850 load is the majority of his problem.

 

[nailem]

I guess I'll just look into adding brakes to the other axle. I replaced the front two when I bought the boat/trailer and they where not that much plus they come on the newer style UFP hubs that do not require any maintenance. I'm not sure if I would have to change the actuator or not but this would still be a cheaper option than the E/H conversion. I know the E/H is the best way to go but not worth the money for how little i tow. if I was towing every weekend it would be different but not for twice a year. I just thought if I could find a scrapped trailer with a E/H pump it would be worth it.

 

[oldjeep]

Just getting the Vault hubs would be worth the $$, not having to mess with the bearings for 5-10 years is great.

 

[Thalasso]

Like Bruce suggested. Get brakes on the other axle and you will see a big improvement.
Not sure where your from but most states require brakes on all axles if over 3000lbs gross weight

 

[nailem]

PA, and they do require brakes on all axles but trailers around here do not usually get checked and if you do the cost of the fine is cheaper than the inspection of the trailer so most people just run what they got.