stringer questions

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charles1961

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Re: stringer questions

yes ,I will be removing that area to. Although the stringers from what i can see, meet up with a full bulkhead piece and then the engine box area meets up with the same bulkhead. the stringers are not directly in line with the engine box. the offset is about 4 to 5 inches. the stringers seem to meet the bulkhead on one side and the engine box to the bulkhead on the other side.
 

charles1961

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Re: stringer questions

there i believe was a total mess with no consistant ( mush, roofing shim wedges foam shot into voids where there was no wood and partial stringer fiberglass etc. the engine box which is still pretty much intact might be a starting point or i found a couple of places where the liner coming down from the side of the boat meeting the plywood deck , which looks original might be a place to start from and level things from there. I guess this would be where to start ????? any suggestions.?????
 

charles1961

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: stringer questions

there i believe was a total mess with no consistant ( mush, roofing shim wedges foam shot into voids where there was no wood and partial stringer fiberglass etc. the engine box which is still pretty much intact might be a starting point or i found a couple of places where the liner coming down from the side of the boat meeting the plywood deck , which looks original might be a place to start from and level things from there. I guess this would be where to start ????? any suggestions.?????

I have also thought to take measurements off the top rails by laying a board across each side of the boat and bringing a board down to each engine box board because they are at the same height and since my decking will eventually be uniform with the stringers and engine box , i figured this would be a good height to work from for stringer height. then i would usethe height from the engine box and transfer it to the stringers and of course leave extra on the stringers for cutoff later after i transfer the shape of the boat bottem to the stringer that i have fixed to boards coming from the top rail of the boat. does this make sense ??? any comments ??? and i would bring this height to see if it matches the wood i found up front by the drivers feet that seemed to be original.
 

charles1961

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Dec 9, 2012
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Re: stringer questions

I have also thought to take measurements off the top rails by laying a board across each side of the boat and bringing a board down to each engine box board because they are at the same height and since my decking will eventually be uniform with the stringers and engine box , i figured this would be a good height to work from for stringer height. then i would usethe height from the engine box and transfer it to the stringers and of course leave extra on the stringers for cutoff later after i transfer the shape of the boat bottem to the stringer that i have fixed to boards coming from the top rail of the boat. does this make sense ??? any comments ??? and i would bring this height to see if it matches the wood i found up front by the drivers feet that seemed to be original.


Seaman

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Dec 2012
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florida
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51

Default Re: stringer questions

yes ,I will be removing that area to. Although the stringers from what i can see, meet up with a full bulkhead piece and then the engine box area meets up with the same bulkhead. the stringers are not directly in line with the engine box. the offset is about 4 to 5 inches. the stringers seem to meet the bulkhead on one side and the engine box to the bulkhead on the other side.
 

charles1961

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Dec 9, 2012
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98
Re: stringer questions

Study your previous pics, and hopefully you recorded all the measurements. You should replace the stringers, and bulkheads,motormounts, and transom in precisely the same locations as they were from the factory. the transom angle and parallelism is very critical so make sure you study up on that to ensure correct alignment of the motor with the outdrive.

would 5200 by 3M serve as a good bond to the bottem of the boat for the stringers before peanut butter and glassing , to them stable and in place and to keep the wood off the bottem of the boat ???
 

bakerjw

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 3, 2013
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287
Re: stringer questions

I cut square boards the size of my inner bulkheads and screwed them to the stringers to keep everything true. I then positioned the stringers in the hull with no spacing under them. My hull has a decent slop, so there is plenty of room underneath of one side of the stringers. Once the ends were cut to match the transom, I squished PB under them and then smoothed it out into a fillet. The original manufacturer didn't even do that. They just had the wood resting on the hull with nothing underneath. It made it easy for water to flow inside of the bottom of the stringer cavity.

As for your request about decking. I'm going with 5/8" plywood on my rebuild. I still might go with 3/4" but we'll see how everything fits out once I get the stringers and bulkheads glassed. The spacing between bulkheads and stringers is close enough that deck flex should not be an issue and I'll also be building it up with a couple of layers of 1708 to bring it up to the level of the deck that is still part of the cap.
 

britisher

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 23, 2012
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Re: stringer questions

When I did my full rebuild on my 89 SR180 BR last year I pretty much followed the Friscoboater thread on his SR rebuild. When it came to installing the stringers & bulkheads I used ply for the bulkheads but ended up using solid timber for the long stringers. I tried to bond two sections of ply to form one long stringer, but it kept failing. All the ply and timber was sealed with a couple of coats of polyester resin before installation. All the wood was installed using PL construction adhesive I got from Lowe's. I never had any problems with it, though always wear gloves as it can't be removed from skin, it just has to wear off. Following general advice on the forum about ensuring a degree of 'flex' for the stringers/bulkheads I used small pieces of polyurethane foam (about 3/4/ x 3/4) located at intervals along bulkheads and stringers. Once the wood was installed, excess PL was removed and left to cure. Once cured, any rough PL parts were smoothed off and peanut butter used to round off the bottoms of all the wood where they met the hull bottom. Once cured and smoothed, I then tied in the wood to the hull bottom with 1708, then overlaid with CSM. Before I did this I double checked to ensure the boat was completely level to ensure all wood was properly vertical. Whilst it's recommended you rebuild as per the original construction viz stringers & bulkheads I added a couple of extra bulk heads where I felt the manufacturer had economized. When it came to the deck, I used 5/8" ply, rather than 3/4". SR used 1/2". I had ensured earlier that I knew where my deck level was to both guarantee the correct height of the sub-floor stuff and also the proper deck height. I used foam insulation sheets as my templates for the deck as it's easy to trim to shape and the deck was in 4 or so pieces. Once satisfied the foam deck templates fitted, the ply deck was cut then dry fitted to the sub-floor stuff, screw holes drilled for screwing down onto to the sub-floor, then the pieces seal with a couple of coats of poly resin. Installation of the deck pieces was similar to the stringers/bulkheads in that I put down a line of PL adhesive on the sub-floor tops before placing and screwing down the deck pieces. Once cured I went round the deck edge and filled in the gap to hull side with peanut butter. After curing, smoothed off and then put down the various layers of 1708 and CSM to fully fit the deck to the hull. On my boat the belly tank was covered by a separate piece of ply and I decided to keep that rather than seal the tank in as some do. Hope this helps. Although only last year, it seems like an age ago. PITA at times, but worth it in the end with the finished result and the knowledge you build up.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Re: stringer questions

The mutliple layers your described in your other post, indicate to me that the PO, did an overlay on a rotting deck. When you do the new deck, I'd use 5/8" Arucao Plywood and install it as described in the first link in my signature below.
 

charles1961

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Dec 9, 2012
Messages
98
Re: stringer questions

I know its been awhile since I posted. I have new pics and new questions. I have installed new stringers and bulkies. When I get ready to put my deck ( flooring ) down , I will be covering it with almost two full sheets. My question is would it be better to use the more fuller sheet from the back towards the front or the fuller sized sheet from the front towards the back. the sheet
 

jbcurt00

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Re: stringer questions

Hey Charles, you can post more then 1 pix per post, but 1/2 aren't attaching. and seem to be the same pix more then once
 

charles1961

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
98
Re: stringer questions

I still have to finalize my stringer and bulkie height . any questions / suggestions would be appreciated.
 

charles1961

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
98
Re: stringer questions

thank you. i haven't been on in awhile and things seem to be a little different and it seems to only let me do 1 pic at a time . if there is a way that you can let me know which pics are the problem ,i can try to resend it
 

charles1961

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
98
Re: stringer questions

thank you. i haven't been on in awhile and things seem to be a little different and it seems to only let me do 1 pic at a time . if there is a way that you can let me know which pics are the problem ,i can try to resend it
 
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