stringer/bulkhead design

friderday

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Apr 1, 2012
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463
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Wow! I can't believe it's been almost 6 months since my last post. Life got in the way of our rebuild, along with very hot weather, college for the boy, & work for both of us. We have made much progress, though. Floor is in, as well as casting deck. Mom(me) was busy for a while filling, faring, sanding, basically destroying all remaining evidence of fingerprints on my hands. As cool weather has finally come here in Florida, we decided to gelcoat a bit yesterday while turkey was dying. Can anyone explain how/why the pinholes occur? I spent a lot of time with microballoons & sanding & although it looked great to naked eye BEFORE gelcoat, we have a few areas where we now see them. Is there a step we missed & what do we do now that the gelcoat is on? Do we need to sand fill gelcoat again or what?
 

ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Anyplace the gel coat has been sanded off down to the glass you will typically find tiny pinholes on the surface, they can be found in fillers too. These pits can be very difficult to cover when spraying gel coat. The easiest way to eliminate them is use a squeegee (bondo spreader will work), spread some gel coat on the surface and then use the squeegee to work it in slightly and remove any excess, this will fill the pits but not leave a buildup. You can immediately spray over this. If you used wax in what you already applied then filling the pin holes is a little difficult without respraying it, you need to sand it very well before more gel coat can be applied.
 

friderday

Chief Petty Officer
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Apr 1, 2012
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463
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Thanks ondarvr. Yeah, that sounds good. Let me pose another option: these pinholes are not pervasive throughout the boat, just a few here & there. They only show up to naked eye after first thin layer of gelcoat. Since we only use wax in final coat, what is the possibility of applying first coat to make the pinholes visible, THEN using your squeegie trick to fill, then finishing with final coats of gelcoat, the last one containing wax? Just a thought..any further comment or advice? otherwise we'll do it as you directed. Many thanks.
 

ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

That method works fine, if there are only few then a toothpick can be used to put a drop in each one.
 

jimmy wise

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 6, 2012
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288
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Wow mom. Your making me feel lazy.if you wash surface before gel with acetone the pinholes show up
 

friderday

Chief Petty Officer
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Apr 1, 2012
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463
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

OK guys...the boat, for all intensive purposes, is done. Gelcoat is done. Engine is on (old 48 special Evinrude that we took off one of our other boats). Only a few details remain. The kiwi grip on deck/casting deck is not done until center console placement. The center console is not completely installed as we wanted to see how the boat ran before exact placement (more forward or aft) depending on performance test. When son & I took it for a performance outing last week, we noticed the boat was quite nose heavy as wake comes off sides forward of midship. There is nothing up there, except the new casting deck & the weight of that new wood/glass. In addition, as we approached wot, we were VERY displeased with cavitation feeling/felt very squirrly, as if it would flip at any time. Keep in mind, we got this boat, holes, cracks & all, without an engine. We have no idea how it is supposed to perform. We don't know if this "feeling" is due to engine being too low or too high???? The cavitation plate(I think that's what you call it-the lower horizontal plate on engine??) is at a level about an inch above the keel. Also, this is a semi-v hull. I don't have ability to post pictures tonight, but will, if necessary tomorrow. Son thinks it's too high, in which case, our options are 1)jackplate or 2)notch out transom as engine sits directly on transom now. Any thoughts would, as always, be greatly appreciated.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Sounds like you need to tilt the motor up more (adjust the trim) so the stern will be driven into the water and the bow will come up on plane. Pics of the setup would help.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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17,712
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Yea, my thoughts are that the boat has a very shallow V and no hull strakes. So, it may feel a bit unstable at higher speeds. Definitely some pics, and thanks for the update.
 

friderday

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
463
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Well, we did another performance test today. We moved the engine up a pin hole & yes, woodonglass, it did help as it drove stern down & got the bow out of water a bit more. Unfortunately, we just need more prop in the water; probably about 2 inches. We looked over as it was on plane & cav. plate is just above waterline. We also put fins on plate just to get a more exaggerated view. Fins were pretty much out of water on plane. Sounds as though son has found a reasonable priced jackplate that will do what we need. Just another hitch. This should be least of our worries.
 

73Chrysler105

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Sep 10, 2009
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407
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

actually you want the cav plate just above the water
 

jbcurt00

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Re: stringer/bulkhead design

actually you want the cav plate just above the water
While on plane:
correctheightanti-ventalationplate.jpg

But it sounds like you're already past setting it roughly 'even' to the keel:
shaft_measure.gif
 

friderday

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
463
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

not this far out of the water..you can actually hear the air, not water that the prop is "grabbing". You can also tell by the wake. In addition, can't get near wot or turns as it rev's out. Just not grabbing enough water. So close, but yet so far.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
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Mar 19, 2011
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Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Pictures would still help us help you better.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

I'm not a fan of jackplates but... in this case it might be the best solution unless you want to cut down the transom height a couple of inches.
Here's some nice plans for making your own JackPlate...Jackplate Plans, Construction Notes
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Yep Motor is 2-4" to high. Cav plate should be pretty close to even with the keel. Jack plate or cut 2" off the top of that New Transom and reglass and paint it.
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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8,155
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

How big and where in the boat is the console?
 

friderday

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
463
Re: stringer/bulkhead design

Yup, that's what we thought, Wood..we disagree on which to do. Son wants jackplate & I want to notch out transom. As much as I hate the idea of tearing up our fresh, new transom, I just know a saw, some peanut butter, glass, & a piece or two of cold pizza, and I'd be done in one day. He is adamant about the plate, so since it is his ship, a plate we will see. Either way, the end result will be the same. It will be awesome when done. We were at 4200rpm the other day, going 28mph. It will fly out of the hole, just little too squirrelly right now. As far as location of center console, we have yet to decide exact spot, as that was to be determined after performance test. Until we get this engine where it is giving us optimal performance, we will delay final placement of console. Thanks for your input.
 
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