Splash well removal 1985 4 winns

[Blazinmonkey]

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[Blazinmonkey]

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sorry about the pics. not how I wanted it to go.

 

[kcassells]

Great pics and the work looks spectacular! I would stick with the WOG man all day long. He'll be along shortly to answer each queastion. Nice, clean work!

 

[Woodonglass]

Hey BM What boat is this? What Resin are you going to use? Transom goes in first. All wood gets saturated with resin first and all voids in the wood must be filled with PB first so it's all nice and smooth. Knot Holes, cracks, gouges etc. All must be filled. This link explains the install for everything. Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

Post some pics of the entire boat so we can see what you're working on. Don't you have another thread started here on the forum?
Yeah, I searched and found your other thread. I remember it now. Your 4 Winns Splashwell removal. You should contact a Moderator and have em combine these two so it will all be together and the other members will know the whole story. It'll be easier for everyone to make sense of things. Heck I'm gettin Oldtimers and my memory ain't what it used to be...

 

[Fun Times]

You should contact a Moderator and have em combine these two so it will all be together and the other members will know the whole story. It'll be easier for everyone to make sense of things. Heck I'm gettin Oldtimers and my memory ain't what it used to be...

Thanks WOG for keeping up with the fading memory we all get. I was able to join the two topics together successfully at OP's request.

 

[Blazinmonkey]

WOG you have a good memory no signs of the oldtimers from my point of view...
I sent a P.M. to fun times to combine the threads. I was not sure of the 90 day rule.
So do I fill in all the screw holes in the transom with PB & let dry/cure or fill in all the screw holes coat the entire wood transom and wrap in CSM let dry/cure.
Or do I fill in just the holes on the boat skin side wet just the side that will go against the boat skin wait until it is tacky then add the CSM and PB the wood to the boat with clamps? I can be thick as a brick at times and just want to be clear on how to in stall.
as for the resin- I was going to use 435 like you recommend in you material list.

 

[Blazinmonkey]

kcassells thank you for the encouragement...

 

[Blazinmonkey]

fun times you are on the ball... thank you for your help combining the two threads so fast...

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok BM, For the transom. No need for CSM on the back side or filling the screw holes. The PB will take care of all of it. Heck I recommend drilling some 1" holes in the transom wood to allow the PB to ooze thru which gives it a kind of mechanical bond too. Tape all the holes on the outer skin on the outside with duct tape and then coat the transom and the skin with a 1/4" of PB and then clamp it down. NOT to tight, just enuf to to get the PB to start oozing out the edges and you're good to go.

 

[kcassells]

yup shoot some picasso's of the entire boat so we can see what's the what.

 

[Blazinmonkey]

WOG I went back to your thread " Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"
Should I water proof the transom wood before hand like goldie627 or just coat the dry wood with 1/4 PB on the skin side and the boat skin with 1/4 PB and clamp.
I believe you are telling me to just take the dry wood coat the skin side & clamp. the 1/2 inch of PB will water proof the skin side. then PB all the edge voids roll resin on the exposed transom wood let it tack then take the CSM make it 2" larger than the wood tear it over the edges to make it hairy dab it in with the chip brush. that will water proof the rest transom wood. sorry for all the questions, just want to be clear & do this the right way. thank you again for your help.:joyous:

 

[kcassells]

WET OUT every pc of wood, always.

 

[kcassells]

Look at it like OVER PROTECTION, if it's in water it can get wet and then you have to start over again. Questions are perfectly fine. Shoot away.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yep you always soak the wood with resin first and pay close attention to the edges. I'd do the entire transom, front and back. When it tacks up then apply the PB to the back side of the wood and the transom skin and clamp it. Once it's installed. You fillet the edges and then use CSM and 1708 to tab it to the sides and bottom of the hull and then apply a Full Layer of 1708 over it and a final full layer of CSM to hide the print of the 1708 ( this is NOT required but makes it look nice and smooth.)

 

[Blazinmonkey]

thanks for the clarification... been grinding...
I bought my poly resin from north american composites $93.50 per 5 gal. bucket with hardener & local pick up...
used WOG shopping list for the rest of my supplies from us composites...
thanks again for the help kcassells & woodonglass...