Replacing a 1999 3.0 mercruiser

Bondo

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I was thinking about not rebuilding the alpha 1 now and just install this outdrive for now. Does anyone see any problems that I may run into with this swap ?

Ayuh,.... Go for it, it's the same drive, a plug, 'n play swap,....
 

inletlife2015

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Thanks Bondo ! Can I order some of that special grease ?

I was able to spend a little time yesterday doing some more cleaning in the bilge area. I can reach in to feel the gimble bearing on the Alpha 1 from the inside of the boat and I can feel a seal, then a retaining ring. If I keep the Alpha 1 on the boat, do I have to get the bearing out from inside the boat ? If so, does that also mean that the bracket bolted to the inside transom has to come off as well ? Sorry about the terminology, I know there must be a name for that part.
 

Bondo

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do I have to get the bearing out from inside the boat ?

Nope,.... That bearin' is serviced through the bellows with the drive off,....

The seal is no biggy, it might hold back abit of purged grease, or water if there's a leak,.....
The snap-rings ain't used anymore,....
 

inletlife2015

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Nope,.... That bearin' is serviced through the bellows with the drive off,....

The seal is no biggy, it might hold back abit of purged grease, or water if there's a leak,.....
The snap-rings ain't used anymore,....

Just as I thought Bondo ! I have done too much research on this to think otherwise but I used a slide hammer puller and could not get that bearing to budge at all. I guess I will have to keep working at it until it comes out. Will I hurt the bellows if I put some heat on that bearing ?
 
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Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Ya don't need heat, it'd probably burn up the bellows anyways,.....

Build a screw puller,.... BD has pictures somewhere of his,....

Basically, ya need a length of 5/8" or 3/4" threaded rod(3/4" gr.8 is my choice), slip it through the bearin', 'n put a Huge washer inside, behind the bearin', 'n a nut,...
With the rod stickin' out the bellhousin', put a bridge across the bell with the rod through it, then another nut,...

Now tighten the nut,... After ya get the slack out of it, it'll pull the bearin', while braced against the bell,....

Just make sure the Huge washer is against the Bearin', 'n not the housin',...
 

Rick Stephens

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+1 on Bondo's solution. Since ya got the seal in there, you can either carefully drive a screwdriver through the seal from the engine side and bend it till you get the seal out of the hole, or just stick the washer right up against the seal and use the screw puller to pull the seal into the bearing and both seal and bearing will pull out together.

I'd be mighty tempted, with the motor out, to just take a 6 pound hammer and a nice big drift and get the bearing started from in front. Gotta be careful with a hammer, but once started that bearing will come out with your puller the rest of the way.

Rick
 

inletlife2015

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Thanks for the feedback, I need all the help I can get right now. Off today so I made a puller with 3/4" rod through a big block of wood. Washer and nut behind the seal, tightened down till the seal broke loose and was against the bearing. When it started working on the bearing, the bellhousing kept turning to the left, I couldn't keep it straight. How can I keep it from turning ? A thunderstorm popped up before I could figure it out. I Probably will be Sunday before I can tackle it again. Anyway, thanks again for any feedback.
Q. Would all this be easier if I take off the bellhousing ?

Frustrated but staying the course. HAPPY 4TH !!
 
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inletlife2015

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Anyone have the part number for the seal that goes behind the gimble bearing ? iboats parts couldn't locate it. Thanks in advance !

Waiting on my hinge pin tool to be delivered tomorrow..3 day weekend this week so hope to get the outdrive finished and get that motor in the boat. I was trying to pull the bearing without removing the housing. Someone told me that was the easiest way to replace it but I had no luck getting that thing to budge. Anyway I want to go ahead and replace the bellows while I'm in there, so pulling the gimble housing and hope that bearing comes out this time. Im tired of fighting with it.
 

Bondo

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Anyone have the part number for the seal that goes behind the gimble bearing ?

Ayuh,.... It's no longer used,.... Unneeded,......

Waiting on my hinge pin tool to be delivered tomorrow..

A 1/2" allen key works just Fine,....
 

Rick Stephens

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To expand a teensy bit on what Bondo said, with sealed gimbal bearing you don't need to install a seal at all.

Nice that your project is getting close.

Rick
 

Bondo

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To expand a teensy bit on what Bondo said, with sealed gimbal bearing you don't need to install a seal at all.

Ayuh,.... Those seals have been bein' tossed in the pond, rather than installed since the early Alpha drives,....
Even the MC-1s,....
Just like the ole transom assemblies that used to retain the bearin' with a snap-ring,....
Both are unneeded, 'n useless,....

The only thing it seals, is it might stop abit of purged grease from enterin' the hull,....
99% of the purged grease drops into the bellows anyways,....
It's unneeded, 'n a waste of time installin' it, 'n a pain to pull it when doin' the gimbel bearin',.....

Nothin' to do with the new sealed bearings,...
 
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Rick Stephens

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Thanks for even more clarity. I always figured it was for purged grease from the greasable bearing.,,,
 

inletlife2015

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Great info !

Should have asked about the hinge pin before I ordered that $20 tool. Oh well..collecting parts and tools. My garage is starting to look like it belongs to a boat owner. Pressing forward...that bearing is going to cooperate with me this weekend. That motor in my garage floor is dying to find it's new home.

Q. The only difference that I can see between the old motor and the new motor is that the throttle cable was mounted on the starboard side of the bad motor. The new motor was mounted on the port side. Should this cause me any issues ?
 

inletlife2015

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Progress ! Bad gimbal bearing is out, new bearing in. New bellows exept for the exhaust bellow that gave me some issues. Really hard to pull the new one on and get it clamped on. There must be some little trick to that that I have yet to master. Anyway, having the outdrive almost behind me, I set the new motor in with little trouble. Didn't have time to get it completely bolted in and aligned, I want to put a replacement belt on the front of the motor before I tighten it down. Looks like I will need to unbolt the motor mount to do that. Let me know if I am wrong about that. Next day off Thursday, hope to get the motor all set and get the hookups done.

It looks like the throttle cable may be short. I was wondering if I can use the throttle cable bracket from the old motor to keep from needing a longer cable. Looks at first like it would be a lot of trouble to do that. May be easier to order a new cable anyway. Any thoughts on that ?

Pressing on...almost there ! Next stop...out there where the big fish hang out..yep yep !
 
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Alumarine

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On the front motor mount there should be a removable section on the port side I believe to make changing the belt easier.
 

inletlife2015

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Finally got to spend a little time on the boat yesterday. Got the motor mount mount bolts all tightened up with little problems. Tried the alignment tool and it looks like the motor needs to be raised on the front motor mount to line up. The biggest wrench I own is 1 1/8", not quite big enough. Just guessing it is about 1 1/4

Q: Anyone know what size the adjustment nuts are ? Borrowed a couple of big wrenches from a friend at work today, hopefully one fits.

The other hickups are the fuel, and water lines. Both are smaller lines on the new motor, so I need reducers, new fittings ? A little advise on those would be helpful as well.



The fitting in my hand is bigger, came off the bad motor. Should I change the fuel pump or reduce the line ? Don't want to hurt the performance of the engine. I'm learning so thanks for any feedback.
 
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Bondo

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The fitting in my hand is bigger, came off the bad motor. Should I change the fuel pump or reduce the line ? Don't want to hurt the performance of the engine. I'm learning so thanks for any feedback.

Ayuh,..... That's just the fuel pump diaphragm vent line,.... the smaller line will Not effect performance in any way shape or form,....

It's only there to tell ya the fuel pump blew it's diaphragm, 'n ya need a new one,......

If there's air in that line,... All is well,....

If ya see Gas in it, ya need a new fuel pump,....
 
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