Newbie Lower Unit question

[mudd_mickey]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

So you think it's the driveshaft that's stuck? I've seen posts where that happens and also the accurate but humorous response like iwombat said about turning the motor upside down and soaking the shaft with something like PB Blaster for a few days. That way is runs down the shaft into the rust. Great idea but not real practical for most of us.

The first time I ever did this job I though it was the driveshaft stuck as well and it was the shift linkage. I forgot to remove the bolt at the top of the linkage. Could you have more than 1 bolt on the linkage? I would not rule out the shift linkage until you can visually verify, by seeing light all the way around it, that you have it disconnected. Do you have a small mirror you can shimmy into there so you can verify the shift linkage is disconnected? Hopefully that's your problem cause if it's a rust at the top of the drive shaft it's gonna be some work. But.... PB Blaster should be your friend. Go buy two cans and use an entire one on that sucka! Then call it a few names and that might help. Also, try to stop using the hammer, I know it?s a hard habit to break but we get so involved and want to get it done NOW that those friggin hammers cost you in the long run. If you chip your lower unit you?ll be reading the post on repairing it next. If you need leverage I suggest a pry bar instead.

We could have an entire section devoted to "can't get my lower unit off".

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Vibrating it loose...eh? doesn't sound as much fun as the AR-15, but probably less costly and less likely to cause me to land in the pokey/ER.

I ran it in the river hoping to effect that result, but I hadn't left any bolts loose,obviously.

Perhaps the yard is a better option for loose bolts.

I wonder though, would I run into trouble with stripping the splines on the shaft?

Do you think that I should just leave them loose by 3/8th of an inch or so? How long are those splines?

 

[iwombat]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

I'll clarify again that I've never done it. Some searching might bring up the thread where it was discussed and success reported. I remember seeing it more than a couple of times before.

My take on it all - those splines run up quite a ways. I should think you've got some wiggle room before you risk damaging anything. Maybe start with 1/8" or something like that.

Really though, I think you should wait for someone with real actual experience weigh in before deciding on a plan. This is one of those cases where experimenting isn't the best idea.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Ok, for clarification here:

I am having server problems and cannot keep an eye on this thread, even though it has been up all day. My ISP went down, and cannot read nor respond to threads.

I am leeching off my neighbor right now, but my signal is tenuous at best.

The last post I made, I wrote at 1500 EST.

I will try PB Blaster, in the Am. I am certain the bolt is out... I can rotate the linkage, I also can move it in and out of both gears.

I tried the pry bar, and cracked the housing (just a little, and it closes up by itself... Not the foot, the middle thing that I am trying to get the foot loose from)

 

[ezeke]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Maybe if people knew where you are, someone could come and give you a hand with that. -?

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

I am in my kitchen.
















In Savannah, Georgia.

 

[iwombat]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

well played


*gallery clap*

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Well, I am still trying to get this loose.

I gave up for a few weeks while nursing a bad back, and the Seloc manual came in during that time.

After looking at the diagrams, I believe that the drive shaft "plugs into" the crank shaft just below the power head.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

I took the little aluminum covers loose, and am able to see this socket. It is rusted pretty well. I am able to tap on it with a hammer and punch, but that hasn't freed it up.

If I put the hot wrench on in, will that ruin anything else? Will I need to rebuild the PH? Is there a better way to do this?

And I tried the PB Blaster. No joy.

 

[iwombat]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Man, that's a bummer.

Apply the ol' blue wrench to the drive shaft down a few inches if at all possible. See if that gets it going. You don't want to heat the crank too much or you'll melt the lower seal.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Is the seal a big deal to change?

It would seem to be a lot easier to do that than watch this thing rust all through fishing season.

I can hit the driveshaft an inch or two below the union. I'll give this a try.

Is there anything else that I need to wory about damaging?

 

[iwombat]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Changing that seal requires powerhead removal. From the parts diagram it looks like you can replace it w/o splitting the crankcases. I'm not sure though.


Another question - just how long did you let the penetrating oil work? Sometimes it takes a few days to really seep in there.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Another question - just how long did you let the penetrating oil work? Sometimes it takes a few days to really seep in there.

Not long enough, I recon.

The female part is facing downward.

I heated things up for a while with a MAPP gas cylinder, on a propane torch head.

Just how hot is too hot? I know that it sounds dumb, but I am sure that 'cherry red' I want to avoid.

How hot can I get this before I ruin the 'temper' of the aluminum around it?

I appreciate your help.

 

[iwombat]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

I think I'd be taking the motor off, turning it upside down and giving the penetrating oil a chance. I think that's your best bet.

yeah, it's a pain in the ***, but far less painful than a powerhead rebuld.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

It sounds distinctly like a driveshaft stuck in the crankshaft to me. That can be difficult. I'd do the release chemicals and give them plenty of time to work. Too much force can break something in the gearbox, and you don't want that.

If all bolts are out and the shift rod is free, there is little else it can be. Use patience as your main tool on this.

 

[andi13]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

did you got any solution to remove it- hello, my name is andi and I got the same problem as you, on an 60hp johnson AB year1984- wanna change the impeller,removed all srews and the srew where the shift rod is fixed behind the starter-..... so I`m following you all the steps you did- and I am also frustrated .... I can`t get them off- I think its rusted in the crankshaft.

I invert the hole AB and put some rust converter on the driveshaft where I get access to it close to the crankshaft. I`m not sure if this converter will reach the rusted place ? I did it now for 3 days- but till now no results.

Please let us know what else we could do?

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

I have had no luck either. I heated it with a torch for a while, no luck there.

I put the pb blaster to it, and I am going to let it sit for a few days, then try again.

I am pretty frustrated with this.

 

[mfield]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Try putting gear shifter in forward, undo spark plugs to avoid injury, rotate prop (kindly not violantly) back/forth. Be careful not to bend waterpump pipelet.(Besides shaft between top and lower unit) With a little luck she'll come right off.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Still nothing.

I have soaked this with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and Rust converter.

I kept it upside down for days, nay weeks, reapplying said products with no resultant success.

I used a 1# cylinder of propane, heating the shaft and the crankshaft head. I burned the devil out of my thumb and managed to get the shaft up to damn near 150 f.

So I loaded it into the truck and brought it down to a road crew that is working nearby. I let the welding crew hit the shaft with a cutting torch until it was just turning red. Then we beat on it a little.

That did nothing.

So today I took my air hammer with a blunt curved chisel, and hammered away for 15 20 minutes. I have a shiny spot all the way around my shaft.

It is still connected.

I suppose I could separate it with a liberal application of Comp B, but I am currently out, and I seek a less drastic solution.

Come on you old hats! You guys must have seen one this stubborn before! How did you all fix it?

At least two of us are waiting with bated breath...

 

[hoeser]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Well you've melted your lower crank seal, that's for sure. So at this point you will be removing your powerhead to replace that. You'll have to bust open the crank halves most likely to replace it, at least thats how it is on a crossflow V4, never seen it on yours.

I would suggest tying the upper engine to your truck, the other end to a tree, and using 1st gear 4wd-lo quite liberally.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

I would suggest tying the upper engine to your truck, the other end to a tree, and using 1st gear 4wd-lo quite liberally.
Reply With Quote

Uh, yeah... I'll get right on that. Let me finish this 6-pack first.


I knew that I would need to replace the seal, but that seems small potatoes when compared to repalacing the whole drive shaft. The Seloc manual suggested that I do more than heat it with the torch... they said cut it off.

As I mentioned earlier, I would like a less destructive approach.

But then again... oak tree, tow strap, and a running start. How do you post video to U-Tube?