Minnkota PowerDrive V2 & a Minnkota MKA-16-03 Quick Release on a 04 Bayliner 195 BR.

[Captain Thad]

Briangcc and gm280

I now see what U R saying. And yes I agree with U!

Get a 4-1/2 by 4-1/2 by 3-1/8 inches thick ...mill a wedge from the 3-1/8" down to 2-5/16 ( basically looks like a ramp or wedge). This will replace the steel spacers then drill the 4 holes through it and hook it up just like I have it now with the plywood underneath.


I just need to finds a plastic nylon piece that big and that thick.

 

[Captain Thad]

A plastic 3.5 inch thick 6x6 inch block costs a minimum of $150!

I think I'll get a 6x6 8 foot long weather treated post for $12. Cut it sand it and paint it
And mount that.

 

[briangcc]

Does it need to be 6x6? Looking at your photo it appears as if you need to just clear the lip for the open bow, something a 2x6 could do. That might make the transition much smaller.

After that, my suggestion would be to make sure you seal the wood, whatever is used. WOG has an old timer's formula that works or if you want go the extra mile and cover in glass/gel to match the boat.

And now that you have a solid mount, it's going to block that front nav light. Time to get a raised one.


Just an observation, take it for what its worth.

 

[Captain Thad]

Briangcc

I don't understand?
it needs to be at the height I have it to clear the rail where the head sits. 2x6 would lower it. wouldn't it? the back 2 posts are about 2-1/8" and the front 2 are bout 3-1/4". I think what you are saying now is to let it rest or come near resting on the upper lip and level it from there?

can you explain?

thanks
Captain Thad

 

[briangcc]

Ahh I see. I missed the railing part in your photos. So what you're saying is that the way it's setup currently that the head of the trolling motor would hit the railing before locking in the down position if the base were any lower. Got it.


Q: Will a raised bow light clear the new solid mount and trolling motor?

http://www.iboats.com/Seasense-1nm-...5145254--session_id.058440808--view_id.484238

Looks like the upper limit is 14". What's your measurement from the deck to the top edge of the trolling motor base? IF it's more than the 14" you may have to shift things around so that you can mount the trolling motor AND maintain your bow light.

 

[Captain Thad]

Just less than 12". So have bout 2" to spare.
Does there need to be a light? During the day? I don't plan on being on the lake at night.

Captain Thad

 

[Captain Thad]

Thanks for EVERYONES input by the way!

 

[briangcc]

Yes you need a light.

 

[Captain Thad]

I'm buying a 6x6 treated piece of wood. I'll make the adapter...then seal it as u recommended.

 

[Captain Thad]

No Title

Briangcc & gm280

This what u were referring to?

I'm going to fiberglass and gecoat it!

 

[briangcc]

Yes that looks stronger/better.

I know we talked about it being that high to clear the railing further back in the open bow. It could just be the picture but it appears to this poor dumb guy that you could decrease the angle on that mount some. If you were to decrease the height of the leading edge, closest to the rub rail/bow, you would tilt the whole assembly up and thus raise the head of the trolling motor up as well. With that move, you could potentially gain enough clearance for the head of the trolling motor to decrease the height of the entire mount.

The reason I'm suggesting this possibility is that it will get you more than you 2" clearance for the new raised bow light as it does need to be seen. Fog, Rain, Dusk or Dawn dictate use of the bow light.

Again, might just be my coke bottle glasses playing tricks on me - has happened before and will happen again - but it looks like that could be tweaked a bit more. Constructive criticism, take it for what its worth.

 

[Jcris]

No Title

I wish I'd seen this post sooner. I have the same TM. I like the wood support you made much more than the 3 post set-up. I too want to eventually make mine easy to remove as sometimes my boat sits on the street in front of my house. I did add a plug and receptacle and eventually am looking to make the whole TM removable. Have you had much chance to use this TM? I ask because I find it difficult to deploy and retrieve, You?

 

[Captain Thad]

Jcris .. I just had it out today.. so I only used it once. Have to admit wasn't the easiest. Where did you get the adapter for the TM? what kind and year boat is that? looks nice!

Briangcc doing that... will that take me out of level.. tilting it? does it matter ? wont be perpendicular to the water?
I was thinking of just putting a removable 14 inch light on.. just put socket where the light is at now. What you think?

Thanks
Captain Thad

 

[briangcc]

I hear what you are saying about a level object being the most efficient in moving the boat but think of it in this manner:

Go launch the boat and see how it sits. I'd wager you're probably tilted off level with the nose up in relation to the stern due to the weight of you sterndrive/OB. This will more than likely change as your gas tank is emptied/filled too! Now toss the equivalent of your body weight up in the bow of the boat. It may level out or it may plunge the nose fairly deep in the water taking your trolling motor out of level the other direction. Now move yourself to the back of the boat. Level changed again. It'll be worse when you add more people in your boat too. Always fun when everyone runs to one side to see what you just brought in!

On a boat not much is level as it's a floating object subject to weight distribution.

Here's how the dealer mounted mine:



Not saying they are right or wrong in the way it's mounted but I will say it's definitely not level with the trailer, ground, or the rest of the boat. I will say that the 14" bow light will clear the entire motor, including hold down bracket with plenty of room to spare with the way it is currently setup though.


As for where to put the socket, sure right where the original light was is an excellent spot. They already cut a hole for you so at worst you may have to enlarge it a bit to make the socket fit. IF you do have to enlarge it, make sure you seal the open wood to keep water from penetrating in.

 

[Jcris]

Captain Thad,
It's a 1996 Glastron GS185 Fish and Ski . I wish I could say where you could get one of those mounts. I'd guess they were a fairly common mounting solution back then. It seems a wood/fiberglass mount similar to mine could be made . Perhaps something better. With all the experienced folks here on iboats I'd bet there would be plenty of guidance along that path. And thanks, although my boat is over 20 years old I very much enjoy working on it.
briangcc,
Great looking rig!. Similar to mine but nicely modern. I do like what the dealer did to mount the TM. Is it removable? It looks like a Power Drive also? At some point I intend to make the TM removable. Just don't like it dangling off there on long trips.

 

[Captain Thad]

Jcris

To make your TM removable looks easy! Just put the MINNKOTA MKA-16-03 in sandwiched between your AWESOME adapter and the MINNKOTA V2 Powerdrive!
U have no where near the work I had to put into mine!

I still plan on fibering mine then gelcoating it.

Captain Thad

 

[Captain Thad]

Brianngcc
Looks good! I think my boat was an between year to better things for Bayliner...only year they don't make adapter for...also no custom Bimini made for that year.

As for the wooden adapter... k here's the stats on it ...it' starts out with a 3.5" tall 5.5" front to back 8" wide left to right piece of wood..I then sliced. a 12.5 degree angle out...that's how I got it level.....or what I think is level.

So u think maybe take some of the 3.5" out and take some of the degree of the angle of the slice out?

As it sits now the head of my motor rubs the rail and I put a piece of foam under the head to protect it. So this could eliminate that....if done right.

The question is how much?

Captain Thad

 

[Captain Thad]

Okay Guys

off subject here. I have now made a template for the front of my boat so that I can cut a 3/4" plywood green treated deck. once I get it cut out I want put carpet on it. the local marine center says they do not stock it. any suggestions? online it? other options?

Thanks
captain thad

 

[briangcc]

briangcc,
Great looking rig!. Similar to mine but nicely modern. I do like what the dealer did to mount the TM. Is it removable? It looks like a Power Drive also? At some point I intend to make the TM removable. Just don't like it dangling off there on long trips.

Yes its removable. I have it off now so I can put a temp cover on it. I need to clean and then reinforce the travel cover from my Four Winns to use on this one - budget's tight otherwise I'd just get one made for the boat. Not sure on the model but it has a wireless controller. I tell everyone that the wireless remote looks like a Nintendo remote. I'd have to look at it again to see what model it is.

 

[briangcc]

Angle. What I'm saying is take let's say 1/4" off the 5.5" side. You'll decrease the angle, raise the head and you may then be able to trim the whole mount down a bit. Just trying to get the whole setup closer to the boat at this stage. Nothing wrong with the way it is I just humbly think it could be a bit lower with a tweak or two.

Okay Guys

off subject here. I have now made a template for the front of my boat so that I can cut a 3/4" plywood green treated deck. once I get it cut out I want put carpet on it. the local marine center says they do not stock it. any suggestions? online it? other options?

Thanks
captain thad

Got a home improvement store around you? Get some indoor/outdoor carpet. I think I paid around $20 for a 12' by 6' section to do the stairs in my house. Get something with a low pile/no or very little loops so your hooks don't get tangled in the carpet. Very easy to install. Only tools you really need are a utility knife with a sharp blade, staple gun, and stainless staples.

Don't forget to seal the wood before you carpet to extend it's life.