Mid 1960's OMC Evinrude gull-wing, a work in progress.

[Quantumn]

As winter is quickly leaving, I am about to embark on yet another project. I was fortunate to acquire a OMC gull-wing vessel, motor and trailer for a very good price. While it has an ugly betty complex atm, it is operational and will be the main cruiser for the lake we live on. The transom is completely shot, so that is the first order of business. Once we dig into that, I am 100% sure we will find many other things that will need immediate attention. Cosmetically, she is in need of major tlc. First order of business is to remove the 125 hp force outboard. Already have a stand built, just need to facilitate having it transferred over.

Just a few quick pictures taken just before winter hit.

Maiden voyage to the homestead:



As she sat last year docked in the back yard:



Quick shot of the motor stand I built to get it out of the way, lol:



Looking forward to all the advice and experience from the Iboats forum members. I have spent many countless/sleepless nights browsing these forums and such outstanding information. As the title says, a work in progress, and hopefully with some diligence and hard work, she will be able to once again ride with style and grace. Thanks everyone and let the journey begin.

 

[sphelps]

Welcome aboard Quantumn !
She sure has a boat load of room inside for the family ! The walk around side console is kinda cool ..
Keep us posted and let us know if we can help with anything !

 

[jigngrub]

I like the lines of her profile in the first pic.

The overhead view of the second pic makes her look kind of like a shoe box. Should be a pretty simple and straight forward rebuild. It'll be interesting to see what kind of silk purse you can make out of this sows ear.

 

[Quantumn]

Just a couple more shots of the vessel and motor. I am now able to tow it to the garage since the snow has melted quite a bit this weekend. From my investigations, I believe she is a Evinrude Sportsman 16, not quite sure of the year yet though.



And a quick picture as well of the motor. She is heavy, very large and loves to drink gasoline by the gallons.

 

[Quantumn]

Just to give a better perspective of the motor size. She weighs approx 300 lbs which will be interesting once we get ready to remove her from the boat.



I do have a question though and hopefully someone here can give me some insight. While I was looking over the throttle controls, I noticed a plastic plug which is able to be rotated. I have no clue on what it is. Was wondering if it is an idle adjustment or something else. Thanks in advance everyone.

 

[kcassells]

I can't believe that boat has a 125 on it? Man Your gonna fly over the water. That little button is probably a choke. Did you google it yet?

 

[Quantumn]

I can't believe that boat has a 125 on it? Man Your gonna fly over the water. That little button is probably a choke. Did you google it yet?

Yeah she scoots very nicely. You would think possibly a choke but that is actually part of the key switch, push the key in and the choke engages. I've been trying to google the question all day, no luck as of yet.

 

[sphelps]

I think that may be a throttle tension knob . Set it at whatever firmness you like .. Maybe ....

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, that sets the Idle speed or throttle whatever you wanna call it!!

 

[Quantumn]

Yup, that sets the Idle speed or throttle whatever you wanna call it!!

Thanks for the insight Woodonglass and Sphelps. I searched for a couple days and could not find any information, just a lot of pictures. Once I get this bohemith removed from the back of the boat and on a stand, I can experiment with it. I just figured it had some purpose in life, lol. You guys rock!!!

 

[Quantumn]

So we are ready to embark on the transom replacement and restoration process for the ole' gal. Please understand that I have a thousand questions and looking for advice as we proceed. Here is a few pictures of the vessels current status:
In garage waiting for tlc


Previous owners attempts to salvage the transom


Previous attempts equal epic fail

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With this little information, I am trying to decide on if I should remove the whole top half or just airsaw it into two pieces and remove the back half. I honestly do not have the room to store the surface area of two boats of this size, reason I am considering just opening up enough room to work on the back half. Any input would be welcome.
Btw, I am also having issues with finding a direction on the resin needed for this project. Funds are limited and would like to keep the costs down as much as possible, if anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be awesome.

 

[Woodonglass]

Your boat is made from Polyester Resin Fiberglass Mat and Cloth and Woven Roving. Polyester resin will be fine for your restoration. It's cheaper but not by a whole lot once you consider the shipping costs since it's considered a Hazardous Material. Lots of guys think it stinks and it does have a distinct odor. It is flammable but there's never been any issues with it causing fires as long as you keep your work area ventilated. I like it cause you can work fast. Epoxy has it's own pro's and cons too. Lot's of members use it as well. Where are you located. We can help you find the closest distributor. For the Deck, Stringers and Transom you should expect to spend somewhere around $1,000 for Resin, Glass and Miscellaneous materials to complete your project.

Here's a list to get you started...

PPE

Respirator (Full Face Preferred $100) if not then double filtered 1/2 face and Goggles with vents taped over.
Latex Gloves (1 Box)
Leather Gloves 1 Pair
Full cover Hooded Tyvek suit.
Talcum Powder (coat yourself TOTALLY with talcum powder prior to every grinding Session. USE A LOT)

Equipment

Prybars, Hammers, chisels, Putty Knives
Flat tipped shove to remove foam
Circular Saw
Sawzall
Dremel Tool
Router
Drill
Random Orbit Sander
Rasps, Files
4 1/2" Grinder with Backup Pad and 24 grit resin coated sanding discs
Masking Tape

Product

4 sheets 3/4" Exterior Ext. Grade Plywood
15 Gallons 435 Polyester Resin
10 qts Cabosil
2 lbs 1/4" chopped strand fibers
10 yds 1.5 oz CSM
15 yds 1708 Biaxial Fabric
dozen 1 qt plastic mixing buckets
1/2" x 5" Fiberglass roller
Short nap 4" nylon roller covers
2 dozen 3" Chip Brushes


Cutting the cap in front of the gunwales is a viable method and NOT that hard to glass back together. Lots of our members have done it this way. I'd recommend about 3" behind the rear grab rail mount.

The link in my signature line on Transoms, Stringers and Decks has some illustrations and info on how to do some fiberglassing etc. You might find that informative as well. Just keep posting pics and questions and the guys here on the forum will be more than willing to help you out.

 

[sphelps]

Woody's list is as about a good a start as you can get ..
With the open floor plan you should be able to replace the deck and stringers without much problem ... The little pedestals that hold up the console will need to be removed . Then try and rig up some type of a temporary support for it ...You also should place some good supports under the hull like extra bunks before ya start tearing thing apart . You want everything to hold it's original shape until the new deck goes in ...

 

[Quantumn]

I greatly appreciate the list WOG as that is the information I was looking for. While no list will ever be complete, that should cover the majority of items I need to acquire. As far as where I am located, that would be the upper peninsula of michigan, close to Marquette. I have been looking for the polyester resin online and found some good deals, but the shipping is pricey due to the hazardous nature of the resin. One question I do have about the polyester resin, is there need to be concerned about uv additives?
Sphelps, thank you as well for your insight. I am not 100% sure I will be needing to replace the flooring as it seems to be rock solid from the vantage point of topside. Though I am aware the truth will be told once I begin the transom work. That being said, with the layout of the ole gal, I will be able to replace the flooring/stringers and such without removing the top, that's the goal. Keep it simple.
Today I was able to remove the side bumpers which sandwiches the two halves together and realized they will need to be completely replaced. I remember seeing them available, though not original, on Iboats so that will be my first option. I am hoping to get the cables/throttle/steering removed tonight and then on Sat morning I can remove the outboard. (Btw, I am extremely nervous of pulling that bohemeth, but it must be done). I'll be sure to post lots of pictures so lets begin!!!

 

[MTboatguy]

You are going to need an engine crane or a lot of help to remove that engine, that size engine is going to be a real pain to try and deal with, if you don't have help and you don't have a stand to put it on. If you have open rafters in your garage, you should be able to rig something up to lift the motor. Anyway you go about it, be careful, I have dropped motors in the past trying to be stubborn and it sucks. Do you have any idea what that boat is rated for? I would make sure and figure out a way to beef the transom over and above what it was actually rated for when new, cause I am thinking that motor is over the rating for that particular boat.

 

[Quantumn]

You are going to need an engine crane or a lot of help to remove that engine, that size engine is going to be a real pain to try and deal with, if you don't have help and you don't have a stand to put it on. If you have open rafters in your garage, you should be able to rig something up to lift the motor. Anyway you go about it, be careful, I have dropped motors in the past trying to be stubborn and it sucks.

Hello MT, I have been contemplating the removal of this motor for 6 months now, and to the best of my abilities and situation, I believe I have a good solution. 1 ton chain hoist which is attached to a 4x4 that is secured to the rafters with 12 1/2 inch lag bolts. As an added precaution, I wanted to wait til the snow melted off the roof, as where I live, extreme weight is already applied with the amount of snow fall we get.




And this is the stand I built to provide a temporary home and also a maintenance stand to work on the lower unit.

 

[MTboatguy]

I fully understand snow load, around my parts we also have to plan for the extreme weight problems it can cause.

 

[Quantumn]

Do you have any idea what that boat is rated for? I would make sure and figure out a way to beef the transom over and above what it was actually rated for when new, cause I am thinking that motor is over the rating for that particular boat.

Excellent observation MT, I have done some research and found the boat to be of 1964 vintage. OMC Evinrude did stop making the outboard options in 1966 and stuck with I/O til they got out of the boat building business around 1970. This is not a placard from my boat but one from a similar OMC, same year and model #.




I am sure I am limited on the thickness of the replacement transom, but with WOG's advice, the new mount will be many times stronger than the original. Cutting corners is not an option, as we would like this to last us a lifetime without having to repair again in the future.

One question I do have, I have a sheet of 1/4" stanless steel and was considering on attaching that to both the outside and inside of the hull/transom. The motor does not have a clamping mechanism, it is attached with 4 bolts. Any Ideas?

 

[Woodonglass]

I screwed a 6" lag Eye Bolt into the header of my garage door and used a 500lb chain hoist to remove my motor. Worked great. Not sure about a rafter???
If you build and install your 1 1/2" transom correctly it will be more than capable of supporting that motor and you WON'T need to add the SS Plate. You can if you want to. but IMHO it's simply OverKill!!!

 

[MTboatguy]

You should be able to build the transom strong enough to handle the motor, just make sure and don't take any shortcuts. I saw one that a guy did here locally and he actually made the metal plate part of the inside of the transom when he laminated it, he roughed the steel plate up and then laminated the wood on both sides of the steel plate, then drilled and counter sunk 1/4 stainless steel bolts through the whole structure in several spot, then over laid with fiberglass, he did it because he wanted to make sure the boat would handled a much larger engine than it was rated for.