How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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215
Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Yah with out. I was using a roller but it seems that the edges between layers always have bubbles. Am I suppose to wet them all out then put them in place and roll them with the roller? All three layers? I think the problem is that the bottom layer is hardening before I can complete the next layer on top of it, creating uneven places. If there are small air pockets do they all need to be ground out??? I know the major ones need to. I went with the razor and tried to cut the places that were bad. Thanks again for the input
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
Messages
215
Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Yah with out. I was using a roller but it seems that the edges between layers always have bubbles. Am I suppose to wet them all out then put them in place and roll them with the roller? All three layers? I think the problem is that the bottom layer is hardening before I can complete the next layer on top of it, creating uneven places. If there are small air pockets do they all need to be ground out??? I know the major ones need to. I went with the razor and tried to cut the places that were bad. Thanks again for the input

I read an :rolleyes::facepalm:earlier post and understand what Yacht Dr was saying now. Sadly, I think that I should grind off the 1708 laid and just do small sections that can be laminated in 3 layers. I should probably put less MEKP so it flashes slower. Do you grind the imperfections in between the glass that has hardened then lay more so theres no places for air bubbles?
 

Yacht Dr.

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Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Yah with out. I was using a roller but it seems that the edges between layers always have bubbles. Am I suppose to wet them all out then put them in place and roll them with the roller? All three layers? I think the problem is that the bottom layer is hardening before I can complete the next layer on top of it, creating uneven places. If there are small air pockets do they all need to be ground out??? I know the major ones need to. I went with the razor and tried to cut the places that were bad. Thanks again for the input

I read an :rolleyes::facepalm:earlier post and understand what Yacht Dr was saying now. Sadly, I think that I should grind off the 1708 laid and just do small sections that can be laminated in 3 layers. I should probably put less MEKP so it flashes slower. Do you grind the imperfections in between the glass that has hardened then lay more so theres no places for air bubbles?

Its all about experience mate .. Im glad you Understand now.

I dont know If you need to grind off everything at this point without some pics .. but if you have serious air bubbles then you should be aware of delam problems in the future.

I have had lams bubble that could be localized in grinding and re-glassing on those areas.

What you need is No bumps or "highs and lows" when you start your big lams. If you have a low spot in your glass then it might be best to just glass the low spot .. then grind until everything is even before you get to lamming up your larger spots.

PM me if I dont respond quickly if you think its needed ( I have no problem with PMs' ) .. i have been under the weather lately and not really up on the forums. Dont worry its just a common cold thats going around ;) .

YD.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Thanks for the reply. Today was my birthday and I had the joy of grinding off 2 layers of 1.5'mat and 3 layers of 1708. I feel like such an idiot. But I like to do things right and not having the experience cost me. But yesterday I watched a whole bunch of YouTube and saw how to lay it up. I was under the impression that the layup didn't all have to be at once and wet. But I will never make that mistake again. That's how everything conforms and you roll out the bubbles, right? Glad I ground off the glass though, there was a lot of air bubbles. I applied a lot of the resin with a brush when I now know to use a roller. Looking to do another "wet layup" in the next couple of days. Thanks again for all the advice.
 

Yacht Dr.

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5,581
Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Thanks for the reply. Today was my birthday and I had the joy of grinding off 2 layers of 1.5'mat and 3 layers of 1708. I feel like such an idiot. But I like to do things right and not having the experience cost me. But yesterday I watched a whole bunch of YouTube and saw how to lay it up. I was under the impression that the layup didn't all have to be at once and wet. But I will never make that mistake again. That's how everything conforms and you roll out the bubbles, right? Glad I ground off the glass though, there was a lot of air bubbles. I applied a lot of the resin with a brush when I now know to use a roller. Looking to do another "wet layup" in the next couple of days. Thanks again for all the advice.

Bubble rollers have Two functions .. One is to roll out the air trapped in the glass when your laying up. The second Function (which many have forgot or never learned) is to Make Shape.

You roll highs into the lows. Make it as even as possible. You can move the glass around to some degree making your repair Flush or Even.

Plastic rollers are King .. dont even bother with them high priced metal jobbies.

YD.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

What are the plastic rollers? Do they look like the metal ones. I have two of the metal ones already that need to be cleaned.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Do I need to squeegee after I roll out the glass with the bubble buster roller to get excess resin out?
 

kinaiahi61

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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

IMG_1424.jpgIMG_1434.jpg
Getting ready:) I hope this comes out better than last time. More prepared this time. Got all the 1708, 1.5oz mat and marine ply cut. Also taped off ahead of time so I don't blow it off again and have to grind the drips. Gonna try and lay the bottom layers of mat and 1708, cabosil, then marine ply, and finish with a layer of mat, then 2 to 3 layers of 1708. Learning as I go. Thanks for the input along the way. Aloha
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Yup the plastic rollers look just like the metal ones .. but they are easier to clean and dont bind as much.

Looks like you have things covered for now ..

One suggestion is to have the mat side UP on your 1708 if you start with 1.5 oz mat. You really should End your lams with MAT. So you have 2 choices .. start with mat and flip your glass .. or end with mat. ( even if you started with your 1708 mat side down I would still recommend a layer of mat first .. and last )

Kinda like making a PBJ samitch.. think of mat as your bread. You would want your best out of 2 breads on the bottom :) ..

Hope this helps.

YD.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

I have 2-1.5 oz mat cut for where I ground through the cracks with some 1708 to fill after that. Then mat over the whole section. Then layers of 3,5,9 inch 1708 over the radius, and last a layer over the whole section to cover it all. Should I put another mat before I put the cabosil and the marine ply? Then I was gonna do a layer of mat, 1708, 1708 and mat to finish. Does this sound good?
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

You dont need before the cabosil . no ..

other than that you seem ok If I get you correctly ..

Mat first .. mat last .. every single time you want to lam ..

Mat is more key then most think it is.

YD.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

IMG_1436.jpgIMG_1437.jpgIMG_1438.jpg
Got the bottom layers laid and the core in. Gotta do a little grinding then cap the core off. All went somewhat smooth, but the air bubbles were still there. Is it possible to get all the bubbles out. I kept working on them and trying but it seemed impossible to get everything out. Turned out way better than what I had to grind off.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Got the bottom layers laid and the core in. Gotta do a little grinding then cap the core off. All went somewhat smooth, but the air bubbles were still there. Is it possible to get all the bubbles out. I kept working on them and trying but it seemed impossible to get everything out. Turned out way better than what I had to grind off.

Yes it is possible... just kinda tricky with hand lams and bubble rollers .. and without a few good drinking buddies helping ya out..

Its a lot better then some of the Builders do Ill give you that.

Little bubbles here and there are kinda ok .. its those air pockets that you really have to get out.

You just have to keep rollin and rollin and a brush of resin here and there to eliminate those small bubbles. You cant just wet it roll it and leave. .. you have to baby it till you really cant use the roller anymore because its kickin on ya. Then clean up and leave it to cure.

YD.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

I guess I did it right then. Kept rolling with the bubble roller and then with the resin roller, and brush. Had to keep going and seems like the bubbles would find themselves then I would push them out more. No real pockets except in the starboard rear. I couldn't figure it out. I ripped the last piece of mat off and tried again but I think there was uneven surface or something but I'll grind it later and redo the mat. I went with 3/4% MEKP and it seemed to work good. Had enough working time and the multiple layers didn't get too hot to cook the resin. I think that the main key was all the prep (as with anything else). The edges of the 1/4" ply got aerosiled to create a better radius and all the blocks of weight put on to keep in place. Thanks again for the advice!!!
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

I guess I did it right then. Kept rolling with the bubble roller and then with the resin roller, and brush. Had to keep going and seems like the bubbles would find themselves then I would push them out more. No real pockets except in the starboard rear. I couldn't figure it out. I ripped the last piece of mat off and tried again but I think there was uneven surface or something but I'll grind it later and redo the mat. I went with 3/4% MEKP and it seemed to work good. Had enough working time and the multiple layers didn't get too hot to cook the resin. I think that the main key was all the prep (as with anything else). The edges of the 1/4" ply got aerosiled to create a better radius and all the blocks of weight put on to keep in place. Thanks again for the advice!!!

You bet ya on the prep ! Without that you would have air pockets and headaches all over the place.

YD.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
Messages
215
Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

portrearview.jpgportside.jpg Had a day to work on the boat. Cut out the floors, and grinded the whole thing down.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
Messages
215
Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

IMG_1490.jpgIMG_1480.jpgIMG_1484.jpg Finally finished the inside yesterday. A lot of $ and man hours but hope that it will last a long time now. Thanks for the help. Aloha
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

Good job, it should give you many years of reliable service now.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
Messages
215
Re: How to repair cracks in Livingston hull

How long after I gelcoat can I use the boat. Should I wait awhile or if its cured and hard, it's good to go.
 
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