Help educate me some on the Chieftains please :)

[laurentide]

Wasnt there a rebuild topic about 12-15mo ago that had a dealer/factory refit of the plates?

Boat was originally her dads IIRC....

I don't recall but I do remember reading that some boats had the preventative work done by dealers in the 70's.

 

[FrankenCub]

I just talked to the owner a bit, we may be too far apart on price. She's thinking $1000, but said to make an offer :frown:
Guess I need to consider things a bit, although my glasser needs floor...stringers...transem...which means a whole lot of fiberglass work and extra cost.

 

[FrankenCub]

Wasnt there a rebuild topic about 12-15mo ago that had a dealer/factory refit of the plates?

Boat was originally her dads IIRC....

That's what I was thinking, I'm sure I read a couple threads that talked about dealer refits. Which would also explain the not so straight line of rivets.

How are you guys multi-quoting ? I can't seem to figure it out.

 

[jbcurt00]

When you want to multi quote, you hit the QUOTE button as you have been. That opens a new reply window. Notice that the quote button under the post you want to quote changes color.

Scroll back up and hit the quote button for any other posts you want to quote. Those quote buttons change color too, but no new reply window opens.

Once you get done quoting all the posts you want to quote, scroll up to the very top of the forum page. Just above the 1st post on the page, there is a POST REPLY button, it too has changed colors and now has a paranthesis w the number of posts you want to quote. Hit that POST REPLY button and a new reply window opens w all the quotes in it.

The quotes all appear in the order they were originially posted in.

 

[FrankenCub]

Ok, makes sense.

Another question regarding the boat. The SC tag by the dash has a marking on it "21 CHM4 I/O". So it means 21' long, Chieftain, ?, stern drive. What does the M4 mean ? Was there a different 21' Chieftain I/O ?

 

[GA_Boater]

The old fella I ran into here with a '74 Islander had her taken back to the factory for refit and part of the redo was adding the plates. Before he came to Ga., he was using her on the Great Lakes and he was still up north when the factory redid her.

 

[jbcurt00]

CHM4 I/O?

Mark 4?

Usually labelled a Mark IV w roman numerals

 

[Watermann]

Just one k for 21' Chief with a good motor is to me a steal, seriously you should say deal and stick out your hand pronto.

 

[FrankenCub]

Just one k for 21' Chief with a good motor is to me a steal, seriously you should say deal and stick out your hand pronto.

I've been pondering what others would feel it's worth. That makes me feel better about the asking price. After seeing the numbers of cracked block on here from PO issues, and this one has been stored with the drive in trailer position, I'm just a bit concerned there may be some freeze problems.
I do trust that my buddy said it ran really good, but they've had it for 10 years sitting and I don't know when it was ran last. A replacement engine won't be hard to find, I'd yank one out of an old farm truck and swap out the required parts, but broken drive will cost some coin. I'm in an area where we have a surplus of good engines and completely rusted out frames I'm a low budget operation lol.

But thank you, that does make me feel much better.

 

[laurentide]

I agree, that's not a lot of money in boat dollars. A great thing about inboards is they're cheap to replace even if it's a total loss. I see a ton of fresh water sterndrives on CL here in VT.

 

[dozerII]

I've been pondering what others would feel it's worth. That makes me feel better about the asking price. After seeing the numbers of cracked block on here from PO issues, and this one has been stored with the drive in trailer position, I'm just a bit concerned there may be some freeze problems.
I do trust that my buddy said it ran really good, but they've had it for 10 years sitting and I don't know when it was ran last. A replacement engine won't be hard to find, I'd yank one out of an old farm truck and swap out the required parts, but broken drive will cost some coin. I'm in an area where we have a surplus of good engines and completely rusted out frames I'm a low budget operation lol.

But thank you, that does make me feel much better.

Stick your head or your camera under the exhaust manifold and look for any rust marks/trails down the side of the block. If they crack it is just below the head on the manifold side.

 

[FrankenCub]

Stick your head or your camera under the exhaust manifold and look for any rust marks/trails down the side of the block. If they crack it is just below the head on the manifold side.

Good idea, I'll try to get a closer look at it today. 49F and pouring rain right now, supposed to 19 tomorrow :facepalm:
But there is a Tiara Pursuit close to me with a V-8 ready for the landfill LOL

 

[jbcurt00]

How'd the followup inspection go?

Watermann and chemicalwire are both very active Chieftain owners and may be helpful to provide good/bad feedback about OB vs I/Os.

Chem will definitely mention how easy it was to grab the boat and head out to enjoy some unusual warm weather after putting the boat up for the season. Very little winterization needed for an OB.

Watermann will mention the umph swapping up to a 4.3L V6 I/O provided.

Most want to swap I/O to OB, dont recall anyone else asking about an OB to I/O conversion.

Just for curiosity's sake, anyone know of a thread where an outboard hull has been converted to I/O ? That may open up new options for another Chief if I don't feel comfortable with what she'll take for the boat.

 

[FrankenCub]

Weird, seem to have a post missing. I haven't gotten to inspect the block and drive for cracks yet, between weather and household duties I haven't been able to step away yet.
Anyway, I agree, OB's do have an advantage there which I do like, but they command really high prices for a good OB where I am. Granted I have seen to old 115hp engines for decent price but they still need a complete overhaul and would still be an old heavy engine with expensive parts. Newerish Mercs and such easily bring $5k+ for a good ready to run engine and that isn't 100+hp either. I see 5hp little pushers going for $400 all the time. That's the cost of a 150+hp I/O engine. All personal preference I guess.
The Chieftain I mentioned in the post that went MIA doesn't include an engine, but could sell a Chrysler 115 for cheap lol. For cheap makes me want to run. The boat isn't that far from me really, 5 hours or so. But then again it's also gonna be a couple hundred $ fuel bill to drive there so not really that good of a deal I guess.

 

[jbcurt00]

The road trip costs certainly need to be considered.

Could it be a long weekend trip w a possible boat purchase in the middle rather then a hauling arse from A to B and back as quick as possible?

I sort of regret the rush for my last boat pickup road trip. Could have been a nice leisure trip w lots to see/do along the way, but I simply didnt have time.

Maybe you posted the missing post
in your other topic?

 

[Watermann]

I cut my boating teeth with Mercruiser (IL6 165) and I had opportunities to go out with guys who had outboards of the era. Hands down a car motor in a boat was way more reliable, quieter and not near the stink.:lol:

Hands down the MC setup takes more maintenance and is more prone to freezing up if not winterized properly. I do know guys though who use their closed cooling system motors through winter, all they do is pull the raw water hose and drain the exhaust manifold which takes 5 minutes.

 

[smevil]

I studied your pictures, it appears to be as original as one could hope for. I would have no issue giving a grand for that old chieftain. All there and intact no external damage, good history, I'm just into rebuilding one and I have had way more fun than a 1000 dollars just working on it. Had registration issues but past that I am going with a good call on my purchase. Best of luck and enjoy it because most boats on c-list for a $1000 are pretty much worthless. SME

 

[FrankenCub]

The road trip costs certainly need to be considered.

Could it be a long weekend trip w a possible boat purchase in the middle rather then a hauling arse from A to B and back as quick as possible?

I sort of regret the rush for my last boat pickup road trip. Could have been a nice leisure trip w lots to see/do along the way, but I simply didnt have time.

Maybe you posted the missing post
in your other topic?

I wouldn't mind a nice site seeing trip but the wife isn't the traveling type, it would be almost impossible to keep her occupied. Especially between here and Jersey. It's usually better for me to go alone on these kinds of ventures anyway. She can't seem to see past the dust and dirt to see the diamond underneath until the work is done. Now maybe if it was to take her to a Giants game she'd be all for it lol.

I cut my boating teeth with Mercruiser (IL6 165) and I had opportunities to go out with guys who had outboards of the era. Hands down a car motor in a boat was way more reliable, quieter and not near the stink.:lol:

Hands down the MC setup takes more maintenance and is more prone to freezing up if not winterized properly. I do know guys though who use their closed cooling system motors through winter, all they do is pull the raw water hose and drain the exhaust manifold which takes 5 minutes.

My first was with OMC and a GM V-6, loved it. The car type engines will survive the most ridiculous treatment, with good care they'll run forever. My uncles run OBs on their boats so fishing with them I get to listen to their noise. I wouldn't mind the smell if they'd use good racing oil I think 2 cycle engines belong on dirtbikes and snowmobiles anyway.
My Renken has a closed cooling system, first time I've seen it on a boat. I like the design but would hate to have a mishap and end up with antifreeze in a lake. I can imagine the fine @.@ I guess it shouldn't be an issue as long as the heat exchanger is in good condition.

I studied your pictures, it appears to be as original as one could hope for. I would have no issue giving a grand for that old chieftain. All there and intact no external damage, good history, I'm just into rebuilding one and I have had way more fun than a 1000 dollars just working on it. Had registration issues but past that I am going with a good call on my purchase. Best of luck and enjoy it because most boats on c-list for a $1000 are pretty much worthless. SME

I've been looking at every picture I can find here and web images and I don't think this boat her ever been messed with, other than basic boating care. It seem everything is there, even the original rear seats. Plenty of silicone trying to stop leaks, especially on the cracked windshield, but I know where there's a good poly supplier. I just need to make time to better inspect the drive/engine for cracks. A happy wife makes for a happy life, and if it needs one or the other, she isn't gonna be happy

 

[laurentide]

Most of the i/o issues that people complain about are in wet slipped boats in salt water. The reasons being that the bellows sit under salt water and grow barnacles and a small part of the drive sits in the water and gets growth and corrosion. For a fresh water trailered boat there's really no issue.

Outboards are generally more expensive but have a better power to weight ratio across the board. But the i/o sits in the boat so the weight is closer to the center of buoyancy.

4 stroke and etec outboards are just as quiet as inboards, but pricey.

The Honda outboards are car engines. They use them in the vtec Honda fit and civic.

I'd just go with whatever's cheapest and easiest. For a budget, an i/o will be cheap AND quiet (and cleaner than a 2 stroke). And more power for your $.

Edit: and you'll get better fuel economy with an inboard vs a carbed 2 stroke of similar power.

I have an outboard because I found a boat with a notched transom and had an old outboard from a glass boat. I do use the boat in the winter so it's easy to deal with...drop the leg, pull the safety lanyard and crank it for 5 seconds. Done and back to hibernation.

 

[FrankenCub]

Most of the i/o issues that people complain about are in wet slipped boats in salt water. The reasons being that the bellows sit under salt water and grow barnacles and a small part of the drive sits in the water and gets growth and corrosion. For a fresh water trailered boat there's really no issue.

Outboards are generally more expensive but have a better power to weight ratio across the board. But the i/o sits in the boat so the weight is closer to the center of buoyancy.

4 stroke and etec outboards are just as quiet as inboards, but pricey.

The Honda outboards are car engines. They use them in the vtec Honda fit and civic.

I'd just go with whatever's cheapest and easiest. For a budget, an i/o will be cheap AND quiet (and cleaner than a 2 stroke). And more power for your $.

Edit: and you'll get better fuel economy with an inboard vs a carbed 2 stroke of similar power.

I have an outboard because I found a boat with a notched transom and had an old outboard from a glass boat. I do use the boat in the winter so it's easy to deal with...drop the leg, pull the safety lanyard and crank it for 5 seconds. Done and back to hibernation.

Thankfully that's one issue that doesn't crop up where I live, most people won't drive 4 hours to get to any salt water. Between the Finger Lakes, the Great Lakes, and Lake Champlain, there is plenty of fresh water boating in NY.
If price were no object, I would mind one of the newer 4 cycle OBs. They're a much different animal than the old smokers. I didn't realize the vtec was the same car engine, that's cool. Honda makes great engines. Fuel consumption is definitely a big factor.
Something I've milled around in my head was putting an I/O in an OB boat. I was actually looking through your build checking out your transom for ideas. Looks to me like a pretty easy change, just making the transom identical to the I/O style. I have a 120hp Volvo/Penta I could use if I found a bare hull for cheap within close enough driving distance. This Chieftain is the first one I've ever seen though. Moat boats around here are either glass, or small tin fishing boats. Like under 14' small.
I'll just keep plugin away to get up enough cash to meet what my neighbor wants for hers. At least it's complete and unmolested.