Guess That Alarm!

AJW

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2017
Messages
44
Whenever the oil line is disturbed as in changing the VRO, etc.... Be sure to prime the pump as follows:
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(Priming The VRO Pump)
(J. Reeves)

When hooking up or installing a VRO whether it is a new or original VRO pump, it must be primed in order to dispel any air that might be in the oil line.

Have the Oil line attached to the engine fitting BUT detached from the VRO. Add a piece of fuel hose if necessary to the oil line so that it can be aimed into some sort of container.

Pump the oil primer bulb, catching the oil flowing out of the line into the container until you are absolutely sure that you have rid the oil line of every bit of air that might have been trapped there.

Now, connect the oil line to the VRO and secure it. When the oil line is secured, apply pressure to the oil primer bulb ONE TIME only. That's it.
********************

Thanks - on Friday I will be back with the boat and be able to test the horn and check out the fuel pump.
 

AJW

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2017
Messages
44
Update- I changed out the buzzer with a new one and also the tach with a new one. If I wired it straight to the ignition it buzzed all the time so I wired it back up where the old one was. I am on the boat now and brought a laser thermometer with me. I can only get it to 4500 rpm now and was able to get the alarm to sound but this one is much quieter so a video won’t come out well.

The alarm is different now. closest to a vro alarm. I thought it sounded more like a beep per second but maybe I am off. Either way it is steady short beeps, not indicating an overheat condition. I took the cowling off and took the temp near the thermostats on the block and it read 140 all the way around after running at full throttle for 10 minutes or so.

Any thoughts? As I mentioned before I premix so does this mean my fuel pump is going bad? Or is there an oil sensor that may be going bad?

Do all alarms buzz when the key is turned to the on position?
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
This was what you stated in post #23... "I changed out the buzzer with a new one and also the tach with a new one. If I wired it straight to the ignition it buzzed all the time so I wired it back up where the old one was."

Where the old one was??... You'll need to be more precise than that.

The only horn that beeps when the key is turned to the ON position that I'm aware of is that expensive black piece of plastic that has a built in ground wire.
 

AJW

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2017
Messages
44
This was what you stated in post #23... "I changed out the buzzer with a new one and also the tach with a new one. If I wired it straight to the ignition it buzzed all the time so I wired it back up where the old one was."

Where the old one was??... You'll need to be more precise than that.

The only horn that beeps when the key is turned to the ON position that I'm aware of is that expensive black piece of plastic that has a built in ground wire.

Hi Joe, I wish I was better versed in wiring so I could describe it better essentially it it hooked up to the main wiring bus bar in the console. It definitely has power.

I did a few things and came to a few conclusions today.

First I made sure the cooling system was ok by replacing the thermostats. I already did the impeller but just to be sure I made sure to test the temp every time it made an alarm and the temp never rose above 140 or so.

Then, thinking it may have been the temp sensors I briefly removed them, ran it, and still got the alarm.

lastly I unplugged the vacuum switch. That did it. No more alarm.

Joe - I read another post of yours saying that it is ok to run without a vacuum switch as many engines do not have it. Do you still feel that way? This engine is showing no signs of a fuel restriction. No rpm drop, no rough running.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
To run without the vacuum switch will need to be your judgement call.... however, from my point of view, since the warning will still sound constant and steady should the engine Overheat which is identical to the Fuel Restriction warning... no possible harm exists.

It's just a case that one must make sure that the warning horn beeps when the key is turned to ON... and that the horn does sound constant & steady when the key is ON (engine NOT running) and one grounds out either of the overheat sensors at the cylinder heads.

That leaves the operator of the craft to render a decision when (if) the engine looses power and is in the process of shutting down... Hmmm, is this a fuel restriction problem or did my warning horn suddenly fail... turning the key off, then back on should result in a beep to put your mind at ease.... as you hopefully see that the fuel primer bulb has collapsed somewhat due to a fuel restriction.

Now, if they could get that Fuel Restriction warning to do something altogether different than to duplicate a overheat warning... I'd have a different opinion of it. Playing "Dixie" would be nice! :fencing:
 

AJW

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2017
Messages
44
To run without the vacuum switch will need to be your judgement call.... however, from my point of view, since the warning will still sound constant and steady should the engine Overheat which is identical to the Fuel Restriction warning... no possible harm exists.

It's just a case that one must make sure that the warning horn beeps when the key is turned to ON... and that the horn does sound constant & steady when the key is ON (engine NOT running) and one grounds out either of the overheat sensors at the cylinder heads.

That leaves the operator of the craft to render a decision when (if) the engine looses power and is in the process of shutting down... Hmmm, is this a fuel restriction problem or did my warning horn suddenly fail... turning the key off, then back on should result in a beep to put your mind at ease.... as you hopefully see that the fuel primer bulb has collapsed somewhat due to a fuel restriction.

Now, if they could get that Fuel Restriction warning to do something altogether different than to duplicate a overheat warning... I'd have a different opinion of it. Playing "Dixie" would be nice! :fencing:

Alright, that settles this issue then. I’ll test or replace both temp sensors and run it without the vacuum switch at least for now. Thanks again Joe, I really appreciate your help troubleshooting this.
 
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