Control help and advise needed

[TOY BOAT]

I tried a search. I really did, but came up empty.
So I purchased a 1985 75 hp mercury outboard with tilt and trim. It came off a pontoon boat. The controls are quicksilver console mounted with tilt and trim button, and cables exiting from the bottom. The cables are about 17' long. Problem is that the boat I have is a 15' runabout that needs side controls with tilt and trim. Also the wire harness connector is internal on the motor, and not external like the 79 80hp merc I had before. So my question is. Does the wire harness from the motor to the control typically come with the motor or the control? Should I save my wire harness? What control do I need? Is there a part number I should be looking for if I am looking used or new quicksilver. And finally, what length cables do I need?

Thank you

 

[TOY BOAT]

Re: Control help and advise needed

Is there a wire schematic available for my 75 hp motor? The harness on the control side is just cut wire ends. I have no idea where they go.

 

[TOY BOAT]

Re: Control help and advise needed

160 views and not one reply?
Well I figured out that the wire harness must come with the engine. But I am still looking for a wire schematic.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Control help and advise needed

Early on Merc had the connection between the engine and all electrical components on the outside of the engine, right side. Later on they redesigned the process to save money and improve reliability. Now the battery connects directly to the engine with studs and nuts, and all other electrical controls/signals come through the remote control harness.

The plug that receives the harness plug is inside the engine. When you buy an engine, you buy a remote control to suit your application which has the harness and mating connector. There are two basic Merc/Quicksilver controls in use today and they are the 2000 and 3000. The former mounts on the bulkhead adjacent to the helm and the latter inside the bulkhead. Control cables and wiring harness are exposed on the former and hidden behind the bulkhead on the latter. These controls have PTT buttons on the throttle/shift lever to be operated by your thumb.

These two controls will power a multitude of engines.

These wires for the most part continue the color code through the interface of the harness to the engine. If you have a tan wire with a light blue stripe in your control cable, it will mate to the same color in the engine. Only exception is the use of purple and red. Red is usually raw battery voltage and purple is switched (ignition on/start) battery voltage.

Depending on what you are looking at there are 8 pins on the interface connector. Looking into the harness connector, pin 1 is at the 5 oclock position. Looking into the engine connector it will be at the 7 oclock position so that when you put the two together they mate. Just follow around the connector with increasing numbers with #8 the center pin.

Pins:
1. Blk/yel.....engine ignition kill. (Black wire with a yellow stripe)
2. Purple switched 12v
3. Tan/blue over temp to the alarm in the control box...shorts to ground inside the engine when OT switch reaches 195F.
4. Black ground.....Batt neg terminal.
5. Grey tachometer signal
6. Yel/blk fuel enrichment solenoid (choke essentially) gets power when you turn key to on/start and push in on it.
7. Yel/red engine start. Applies 12v to starting solenoid coil
8 Red 12v battery power from engine to power everything else.

The rest of the wires go to the tach connector or are auxillary for certain applications. Will advise if you need it. You have the main ingredients to get yourself going. The Blu/wh and Grn/wh are up and down for the PTT. Don't remember which is which...just marry the colors across the junction and you will be ok.

I bought my latest 2000 on here as I recall for about $ 250 including shipping.

On length, you need extra length to allow for the engine to move side to side and up and down. Your length depends on how you route your wires. Better too long than too short. Don't be stingy.

Mark

 

[TOY BOAT]

Re: Control help and advise needed

Thank you so very much Texasmark. That is exactly what I am looking for.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Control help and advise needed

Thank you so very much Texasmark. That is exactly what I am looking for.

Glad to help my man. Boats have been a part of my life, my entire life. I just love 'em. Enjoy.

Mark

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Control help and advise needed

You can take a grinder and round off your skeg if you want it to be more esthetically pleasing. Merc uses a Phantom Black Lacquer which you can put over an enamel primer like Krylon or Rustoleum. Follow the painting directions on the can. Just allow a couple of weeks for it to cure good before you use it and be sure to sand the surfaces prior to painting to get a good bond.

That boat with that engine will give you stellar performance. Those boats ran in the time with a 35 on them and were marginal in performance, but that's all we had. Lone Star was made somewhere here in TX. but I don't recall. Go to their forum herein and learn about them. They built a lot of boats for a long time, both tin and FG. When something withstands the test of time of over 50 years and still is in good shape and provides stellar performance, it speaks for itself.

Good Boating,
Mark

 

[TOY BOAT]

Re: Control help and advise needed

You can take a grinder and round off your skeg if you want it to be more esthetically pleasing. Merc uses a Phantom Black Lacquer which you can put over an enamel primer like Krylon or Rustoleum. Follow the painting directions on the can. Just allow a couple of weeks for it to cure good before you use it and be sure to sand the surfaces prior to painting to get a good bond.

Done.

That boat with that engine will give you stellar performance. Those boats ran in the time with a 35 on them and were marginal in performance, but that's all we had. Lone Star was made somewhere here in TX. but I don't recall. Go to their forum herein and learn about them. They built a lot of boats for a long time, both tin and FG. When something withstands the test of time of over 50 years and still is in good shape and provides stellar performance, it speaks for itself.

Good Boating,
Mark

Agreed. Everything I have read leads me to believe this is going to be a fast boat. The boat was capable of twin 35s at 135lbs or so each. That is two engines weighing 270lbs. This is one 75hp weighing 265lbs., and now with teleflex steering. The rest of the boat including paint will be factory original.

Now I checked and all the colors you listed were present. I found two additional wires. One solid beige, and the other was dark brown, almost black with white strip.

 

[TOY BOAT]

Re: Control help and advise needed

So I found a used Quicksilver Mercury Remote Control Box #881170A13 on ebay with the wire harness cut off. So I will just solder in my wire harness. I also got the correct length cables. I might actually have this thing in the water by labor day.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Control help and advise needed

From your picture you need to raise it 2 or 3 holes as cavation plate is to deep....

 

[TOY BOAT]

Re: Control help and advise needed

From your picture you need to raise it 2 or 3 holes as cavation plate is to deep....

View attachment 165606

The cavation plate is sitting 1" above the bottom of the transom.