Chaparral 2000 SL Sport floor, and more?? [SPLASHED Sept 2017]

[kcassells]

Looking real sweet there! Nice grinding work!
KC

 

[mickyryan]

me and Kc are part of the grinders fan club visualize us standing far away from boat waving foam fingers and holding cold beers cheering ya on

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Lol Mick, good stuff man!!
Ok a few pics so you can see what I was dealing with in the keel. It looks like some pine cut in 12" pieces, milled to fit the sharp angle of the bow. They were layered end to end from the bow hook to the end of the curve. Then the same milled pine was flipped upside down and again ran back to back about 6' down the flat of the keel. This wood was covered in roving. One of the pics shows how much resin ran down the bow and pooled up. You can also see it wasn't put in straight. Was this boat built on a Friday?? Most of the wood was wet, some heavily rotted. I have it ALL removed now.
Now I have a question. Do I have to put wood back? I would like to PB and tab in pvc pipe in the place of wood. This would last forever, and provide drainage to the bilge. I can drill holes in the pvc at the aft end of every bulkhead.
Any thoughts???

 

[mickyryan]

yup that would work no need for wood id use pvc

 

[drewm3i]

Don't be silly, wood works just fine. This boat lasted 26 years as-is, build it with wood and coat it all in epoxy, keep it covered an it will last forever!

 

[mickyryan]

Don't be silly, wood works just fine. This boat lasted 26 years as-is, build it with wood and coat it all in epoxy, keep it covered an it will last forever!

he was referring to drainage from there down tabbing in a pvc pipe in the bow , I do agree about the wood comment though , I used no special materials in my stringers or transom besides wood , it lasted 30 yrs done wrong , wonder how many years done right

 

[kcassells]

I would go back with the wood and glass. Mine had it also, kinda like a backbone. The over pour of resin yup, that too. I actually used a hammer and chisel to pop that out. It was thick.
I used a 2x4 and wittled it down to shape.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...v-hull-cuddy-walkaround?p=9261333#post9261333

 

[drewm3i]

Don't be silly, wood works just fine. This boat lasted 26 years as-is, build it with wood and coat it all in epoxy, keep it covered an it will last forever!

Oh, haha now I get what he was saying. That's a good idea I guess, but i would install it with a plug so that it can be blocked off as well as opened up to drain. The biggest key will be to seal the deck up really well once everything is put back together. If everything is sealed from below with a plug and every hole in the deck is sealed, this boat will never rot again with proper care, which is why I'd use plywood and foam. This boat needs foam for rigidity and flotation.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Oh, haha now I get what he was saying. That's a good idea I guess, but i would install it with a plug so that it can be blocked off as well as opened up to drain. The biggest key will be to seal the deck up really well once everything is put back together. If everything is sealed from below with a plug and every hole in the deck is sealed, this boat will never rot again with proper care, which is why I'd use plywood and foam. This boat needs foam for rigidity and flotation.

I agree with the foam. I know I was commenting earlier about not putting in the foam, but I changed my mind once I got the entire hull exposed. My un-educated guess is that a lack of a stringer system in this boat was made possible by a very thick hull, and foam on the outsides of the stringers. Since I will not be installing a ski locker, I have been thinking about using some foam under the floor in the bow area forward of the relocated fuel tank. We shall see.....

So my question posted again to get a little more conversation. Can I use PVC pipe bedded in the keel in lieu of the 12" pine sections?? I'll cover it with roving like the wood, but the PVC pipe can also serve as a drainage system between bulkheads? Are there any other experienced restorers that would like to chime in?? :noidea: Thanks to those who have replied.......you ROCK!! :rockon:

 

[proshadetree]

I dont see why you cant use pb to bed a pvc pipe in there. As far as the foam everone said my Baliner needed it also. Didnt put an oz back in it. I boat on a smallish Lake that the bank is never that far away. I also compartmentalized the under deck area with 1/2 inch drains in the bottom. The 1/2 inch would only let x amount of water flow at a time. Like a jet in a carburetor.

 

[mickyryan]

I do feel foam adds a bit of structural integrity to the boat and sound dampening, that said, once you use pourable foam you wont ever wanna use anything else .

 

[proshadetree]

I will attest to that my boat tends to drum in high waves. Cant tell any issues with flex after many years of use.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I will attest to that my boat tends to drum in high waves. Cant tell any issues with flex after many years of use.

I did the same thing to my bayliner Capri. Removed all the foam from the hull and never looked back. It may have been a touch louder hitting wake, but it wasn't noticeable over the roar of the 90hp 2 stroke. My Capri was 16' and the stringers were short. My Chap is a little different. Longer, wider, and the stringers are taller. I worry about structural integrity given the lack of structure. I'm adding a bulkhead that wasn't there from the factory, and I'm putting foam back. It will be rock solid when I'm done.

To PVC or to not PVC, that is the question. Looks like the survey is leaning in favor of PVC in place of wood in the keel.

 

[tpenfield]

foam is as much structural as it is flotation. both are good things to have.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Did a little work tonight. I'm not going to grind in my garage due to the massive mess it makes, so I'll work on some smaller, albeit important projects. First up is the transom. I cut it out of 3/4 BCX to the exact specifications of the original. Did some scribing to get it close. Final fit will come after final grinding is done.

I cut the keyhole. Then fit the second piece on that which makes up the thickness needed for the outdrive. Drilled weep holes in the second piece. Spread PL with a notch trowel and screwed both pieces together. I'll remove the deck screws after a couple days. I used the excess PL to make some small fillets. I'll fare the PL with PB later after I get my supplies.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Not much work going on the past few days. The colder it gets the more unmotivated I become...lol. Been cold enough in south central PA that after work I just want to hang out in front of the pellet stove. I'll hopefully get some grinding done tomorrow, but honestly I think the rain will prevent that. If that's the case I have indoor work I can do. 29 weeks until summer.....tick-tock.

 

[gsxrdan]

thats a handsome transom!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Welp, no grinding today. I decided to take care of some less dusty projects. I hate drilling holes in the transom to mount stuff. I filled all the holes in my bayliner and installed a UHMW plate, so I wanted to do the same with the Chap.
Since the transom wood is out of the Chap I can seal the holes from the outside, and they'll be completely sealed since I'm PB'ing the plywood in. I left a couple holes unfilled so I could use them to mount the UHMW from the inside. Some 5200 and stainless steel screws finished the install.

 

[79_banshee]

Awesome just awesome baylinerchuck. We just got out of the -40c weather on sat night and it was just so windy the last couple day I'm scared the my boat would flip off the trailer. Hope to get my grinding done over the holiday. Once again I haven't checked in for a while and took me s little bit to go through all the work you've done. Looks great

 

[tpenfield]

Looking good Chuck

79_banshee -40 C . . . :dizzy: :faint2: