Re: Breaking wave (amazing!)...
Alcohol and testosterone may have played a part, but maybe not. It kinda' looks to me like he was trying to get turned around, and just got caught. He goes over a couple of rollers at an angle, then turns hard to port - like he saw what was coming and wanted to get back to where he came from. Once he went bow first over the first breaker, he was in a VERY bad way and either hesitated or just plain made a bad choice to continue straight on. Honestly, I can envision and even appreciate the thought process he was going through. There but for the grace of God....just sayin'.
Not sure beaching is all that bad an idea, but it was a decision that would have had to be made prior to the turn to port.
Bad situation = bad situation. Bad situation + speed / power = almost always a worse situation