AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

[sqbtr]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

Is there a difference between the AQ125A and AQ125B water pump?

I see two different part numbers in the diagrams on volvopentastore.com, but I wonder if they are interchangeable.
AQ125A - Part# 828023 Replaced by 3587508
AQ125B - Part# 855566 Replaced by 3856036

Don't know but if it has the two piece heat exchanger the WP is marine only as the heat exchanger plugs into the WP. Look at the 131 heat exchanger it hooks up to the WP by a hose.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

My machinist is a bit behind, but I should have the head back early next week.

The block was cleaned and the first coat of primer went on.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

I got the first finish coat onto the block and intake.

 

[wellcraft19]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

Looks like great progress. I "should" probably pull my engine (AQ171C) one winter and do the same. But have to wait until house is done...

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

All painted and ready... intake:

exhaust:

valve cover:

I cleaned up lots of the miscellaneous parts, some from the auto, some from the old engine:

I started priming them, along with the head I recently got back from the machinist (I put the old valve cover on the head while I paint it):

I'm having some problems with the bolts holding the old motor to the transom shield (where the snout bolts up to the clamping ring). Two of the bolts came out with an impact wrench, but the other 4 are corroded real bad. Anyone have any tips on getting them out? It's a very tight space. I've considered torching them out, or maybe drilling off the heads. I don't think I can get my cutoff wheel in there.

EDIT: For anyone who may not know, to get at these bolts for engine removal you have to take (at least) the upper gear housing off of the outdrive (mine is a Volvo Penta 270)

 

[wellcraft19]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

That matte black looks great! You are making good progress.

Not to have you "undo" anything, but the seawater pump can be polished to "like new" condition (and it stays that way) by "beating it up" with a rotating wire brush on a handheld drill.
I did that back in 2005 and still like new.

Also polished the copper pipes in the same way, but as expected, they do oxidize over time.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

Thanks. Anyone know of any reason not to use a generic marine heat exchanger along with the automotive water pump?

One like this (Copper 14" x 3.5", two pass)

EDIT: With a separate (plastic) expansion tank of course.

 

[sqbtr]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

Or how about this...............................

Works with the auto pump.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

Or how about this...............................
Works with the auto pump.

Thanks for the picture! That's exactly what I'm looking to do. The AQ131 coolant inlet (on the intake side) is a bit different from the AQ125, but I'll fabricate a bracket if need be. Are there any additional photos of that setup (other angles, etc) ?

(NOTE: for those unable to see the image sqbtr posted, you need to be logged into the baylinerownersclub.org forum)

 

[wellcraft19]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

sqbtr,
Any chance you can post the photo directly here?
No member of the BL forum, but still very interested to see what you recommended...

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

sqbtr,
Any chance you can post the photo directly here?
No member of the BL forum, but still very interested to see what you recommended...

View attachment 111364

 

[sqbtr]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

If it wouldn't anger the mods I could try to find and post a link to the thread with all the info in it, I seem to remember the units final price around $500, and it included the overflow tank.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

If it wouldn't anger the mods I could try to find and post a link to the thread with all the info in it, I seem to remember the units final price around $500, and it included the overflow tank.

At the very least, can you PM it to me? (I'm also a member at BOC, same nick)

Made some progress yesterday... I got all 6 mounting collar bolts out (on the transom shield holding the old engine in). That was a pain! I also got the timing belt, pulleys, sea pump, main pump, and valve cover installed.

I think I need to redo the timing belt though. I must have been a tooth (or so) off because I realized the marks don't end up matching back up on subsequent revolutions.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

I think I need to redo the timing belt though. I must have been a tooth (or so) off because I realized the marks don't end up matching back up on subsequent revolutions.

Are we talking about marks on the belt, or the marks on the crank/cam cogs? Most manufacturers use an odd number of teeth on the cam/crank cogs, so after you roll the engine over, any marks on the belt won't line up again with marks on the cogs for X number of revolutions. If the marks that you line up on the cogs to the head/block don't line up after a revolution, then you need to re-time the engine.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

Are we talking about marks on the belt, or the marks on the crank/cam cogs? Most manufacturers use an odd number of teeth on the cam/crank cogs, so after you roll the engine over, any marks on the belt won't line up again with marks on the cogs for X number of revolutions. If the marks that you line up on the cogs to the head/block don't line up after a revolution, then you need to re-time the engine.

"A revolution" of what? The crank I assume? I'll have to check that. I meant that the marks on the belt didn't seem to end up lining back up with the cam/intermediate/crank marks in the right positions. I went through 20 or so revolutions of the crank. Perhaps I misunderstand exactly what should re-line up.

As per the service manual, I lined up the cam gear mark to the center of the valve cover (straight up in relation to the head). I lined up the intermediate gear mark to the 3-oclock position marked on the housing, and lined up the crank gear notch to the 12-oclock line also marked on the housing. I then put the belt on with single white on the intermediate mark, single white on the cam mark, and double-white on the crank notch (with all slack on the tensioner side). I then installed the tensioner, turned the crank a few degrees, then tightened it fully. That's when I went through my 20 revolutions looking for a full match.

EDIT: As is, the gear/pully marks all lineup with the block markings with each single revolution of the crank. I have yet to see the belt marks lineup again.

 

[Mullin]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

The marks on the belt just help ensure that you get the belt on nice and tight, but are not used again once the crank is turned. After turning the crank you can double check the timing marks on the three gears, but the belt won't line up again and it doesn't need to. The gears are what matters, not the belt.

Just a suggestion, consider replacing the oil pan gasket. Mine was leaking a tad and would be a real pain to change in the boat. I don't know if you have seen this motor run yet to know if it leaks or not.

Keep it coming, this is a real interesting read! And I'd like to hear how much this is costing you if you don't mind (like how much was the block, or the bill from the machine shop for the head?).

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

"A revolution" of what? The crank I assume?

A revolution, meaning the crank spun over twice to tdc, and the cam making one revolution (cam spins at 1/2 the speed of the crank) with the belt on.

I'll have to check that. I meant that the marks on the belt didn't seem to end up lining back up with the cam/intermediate/crank marks in the right positions. I went through 20 or so revolutions of the crank. Perhaps I misunderstand exactly what should re-line up.

As per the service manual, I lined up the cam gear mark to the center of the valve cover (straight up in relation to the head). I lined up the intermediate gear mark to the 3-oclock position marked on the housing, and lined up the crank gear notch to the 12-oclock line also marked on the housing. I then put the belt on with single white on the intermediate mark, single white on the cam mark, and double-white on the crank notch (with all slack on the tensioner side). I then installed the tensioner, turned the crank a few degrees, then tightened it fully. That's when I went through my 20 revolutions looking for a full match.

Not having the service manual in front of me, I don't know exactly what your looking at, but I have timed several engines using the belts with marks on them. Ideally, you set the marks on cogs/gears with the their respective timing marks on the head and block, and use the lines on the belt to aid you with the process. Depending on the tooth count of the belt and cog/gears, it may take allot more than 20 revolutions for the marks on the belt to line back up with all the marks on the engine (not sure if you got 20 revolutions from the manual, or just spun it for 20 revolutions). What you usually check for after initially timing the engine is making sure that the marks on the cogs/gears of the crank, cam, etc, line up after 2 revolutions of the crank. In other words, set up the initial timing by lining everything up, put the belt and tensioner on, then spin the engine over so that the notch on the crank cog lines up twice. When it lines up the second time, look at the position of the cam and intermediate shaft. The timing marks on them should be lined up perfectly with their respective timing marks.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

In other words, set up the initial timing by lining everything up, put the belt and tensioner on, then spin the engine over so that the notch on the crank cog lines up twice. When it lines up the second time, look at the position of the cam and intermediate shaft. The timing marks on them should be lined up perfectly with their respective timing marks.

Thanks! It seems I'm good to go then.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

Just a suggestion, consider replacing the oil pan gasket. Mine was leaking a tad and would be a real pain to change in the boat. I don't know if you have seen this motor run yet to know if it leaks or not. Keep it coming, this is a real interesting read! And I'd like to hear how much this is costing you if you don't mind (like how much was the block, or the bill from the machine shop for the head?).

Thanks Mullin! Yes I replaced the pan gasket ($8.99 from autozone). I've been replacing every gasket I can.

I'm keeping a tally in a spreadsheet, and I'll post that when complete. To answer your initial questions, the entire auto engine was $375 plus tax and having the cleaning/decking/valve-job/seats/seals/re-shim on the head was $300 plus tax.

 

[paperklip]

Re: AQ125B Engine Swap with a Marinized B230 Auto Engine from 92 Volvo 240

Finally got the old engine (with flywheel cover) out of the boat. To anyone attempting this and having trouble, this post was invaluable. The three "unused" holes on the clamping ring are good for something. The trick is to screw three bolts into those after you remove the six, which pushes the stuck flywheel cover out. Genius.

So here's where I stand... old block pulled:

Eased it out with 4x4 blocks until level with the deck:

Then we (two guys) lifted it over the transom and out. All gone and the bilge is ready for a good cleaning and some fresh paint:

View through the transom shield:

I now have the flywheel, damper, and cover off of the old motor. I also removed and wire-wheeled the motor mounts for paint:

Getting there: