And Away We Go, Restarting The Rebuild

[wooky30014]

I got my long idled restore underway again, been busy the last two weeks or so building gantries and putting up the portable garage (shade and UV protection). So far I've removed some sort of anchor anchor (crappy glass job) up in the bow and am in the process of removing the old stringer channels and it's tabbing. I do have a question for future reference, I was told that the new stringers shouldn't go back in the strakes (where the factory put them oh so many years ago) as the strakes are a weak point in the hull. I'm (was) planning on adding 2 more stringers in the strakes between the old one's locations and the chines, anyone with any thoughts on this or can tell me where the stringers need to go. Presently sitting on bunks where the stringers were. New transom wood will go in after I close up the motor hole and the OMC steering cable hole. As the song goes (sorta modified) "I've got a long way to go and a longer time to get there . . . "

No pics til I can figure out how to resize them

 

[GA_Boater]

Try Option 3 using Photobucket to show us some nice sized pictures and no resizing needed - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum-rules-and-guidelines/9938375-photo-upload-tutorial

While we're waiting - What boat are you working on to maybe answer the stringer/strake questrion.

 

[wooky30014]

Oh, my bad, it's a 1972 Seabird. I know Seabirds aren't supposed to have stringers but this one does/did. They were mush when I did the initial tear down. The liner has been scrapped due to the floor parts being all cracked and broken plus the thing was SO heavy. This is for nearer to completion but I also have a cabin top with windshields and a hardtop that I'm planning to add (or build one to use the windshields and hardtop). Pics I'm working on

 

[wooky30014]

I got on photobucket, pics are there but can't seem to get em here,

I don't know enough about resizing photos, other forums I am a member of has no problem with my pics and not complicated, sorry.

Anyway, if I could get some feedback on my questions while I figure this out, thanks

 

[wooky30014]

Here, let's try this now

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I tried, can't get it to work following the direction, the other "option" said they weren't valid image files, OH WELL

I guess I'll just go it alone and do as originally planned, the build that is

 

[sphelps]

wooky , click on the pic you want from your library in pb .. when it comes up click on the IMG tag on the right side bar . It should flash yellow" copied ".
Then go back to your post and right click and "paste" it into your post .. It should work ...

 

[wooky30014]

Try this again If it does I have some more pics to add to PB

 

[wooky30014]

Ok, it worked, a couple more pics of the inside of the hull, again I'm working on removing the stringer channels so pics aren't up to date

 

[jbcurt00]

Um, whats going in that giant roundish hole out back? Not the OMC, right? Trading up to a Mercruiser/Volvo setup?

 

[wooky30014]

THAT Sir is my escape port :lol: no really when I first bought the boat many years ago as a project it did have an OMC (part of one anyway) that I ended up giving to an Uncle as spare gears and such for his boat. I did a halfway hole fill in and transom fix (didn't know what I was doing) and fitted a Volvo 270 with a slant six Chrysler (somewhere here I have a pic of another boat with a slant, they seem to be a rare set up) out of a donor boat I obtained. That set up worked well, still have the Chrysler/Volvo I'm going to use except to get the needed parts for a V6 Chevy motor, that is still down the road a ways though. Plans are to taper the holes and close them with new glass up to the proper thickness before applying the new plywood

 

[wooky30014]

The last few days I've been removing the stringer channels and some of the tabbing. In doing so I got most of the putty blobs out of the keel (pic 1) area as well as the painted tabs under the engine. I'll start the sanding of the hull on Friday and smooth down the tab joints that remain. I'm planning on a new layer of glass from bow to stern in the keel

 

[kcassells]

Looks nice and clean Wook.

 

[ezmobee]

Really nice work on the tear out.

 

[gm280]

Well it seem you've cleaned it out real well. Looks good to me. :thumb:

I'd like to tag along if that is okay with you.

 

[wooky30014]

Thanks guys, I haven't figured out the "multi-quote" thingy here (I'm a member of a few other forums and they all have their differences ;-) ) It looks clean til you get closer, there is/was some mat under the woven but I'll get that too with sanding. It's projects like this that the OCD comes out in me :facepalm: Can't see it in the pics but back where the hull sides meet the stern I'll have to fix a buggered place up top where the rub rail fits and will put some PB and tabbing to shore up the inside corners (again, OCD) before getting the transom together. Thinking ahead again

By all means gm280, the more the merrier, you might even catch me about to do something wrong and point that out to me. This is a first boat (re)build and a first doing anything fiberglass but have studied and read many other's projects (hey, if I can fix and maintain an old Mercedes this might be a walk in the park)

 

[wooky30014]

I started the sanding, though got a late start, I guess I'm going to have to break down and get a grinder :facepalm: with an appropriate disc to get that putty out of/off the hull :mad-new: not to mention my sander won't keep the sanding pads on (does velcro wear out ?) keeps slipping off the side. I did get most of the paint off the inside of the bow however

 

[gm280]

I started the sanding, though got a late start, I guess I'm going to have to break down and get a grinder :facepalm: with an appropriate disc to get that putty out of/off the hull :mad-new: not to mention my sander won't keep the sanding pads on (does velcro wear out ?) keeps slipping off the side. I did get most of the paint off the inside of the bow however

To answer your question first. YES, the velcro does wear out over time. And lots of times that is because of the heat generated when sanding. I don't know what type sander you have, but I used a DeWalt sander and you can buy replacement velcro pads for them (hook and loop). So check to see if you can buy new velcro pads for yours as well.

However, an angle grinder makes quick work grinding off old fiberglass and other stuff used in hulls. I would certainly buy one and do the job with a little more aggression then a mere palm type sander. I used 80 grit disks, but lot of folks on here us 36 grit and 40 grit disks.

I will also state this. Make sure you use a Tyvek coverall suit with eye quality protection and even a very good 3M type respirator. That fiberglass dust goes everywhere and in places you just never really wanted it to go. And it is seriously itchy and irritating as well. So the more skin you cover up, the less you are going to be effected when grinding. Most even duct tape the legs and wear gloves and tape the cuffs as well. Sounds very restrictive, but once you get going, you will see why. Safety has to be first!

Post pictures. We love pictures and it allows us see what you are dealing with. And keep the faith. We will help you along. :thumb

 

[wooky30014]

Yeah, the shop vac did it's job with the sander (B&D model with 60 grit pads, I'll check into a new velcro pad, thanks) I was wanting to avoid the itch, Tyvek, and the mess, I have the dust masks and was wearing safety glasses but will get goggles. I'll get what I need and start early and git er dun in one day rather than . . . . . ya have to admit I gave it a good try, just didn't go as planned. At least when I do this I'll be in the shade and hopefully a little breeze as well. I've got a bunch of pics posted up to where I am at present

 

[sphelps]

If your just using those throw away particulate type dust mask when you do start using an angle grinder those mask will not do the job ....
You need at least a half faced respirator type mask ... Full faced for grinding is the best but a half faced will do with safety glasses ..
Don't know if you have a H/F near by ..http://www.harborfreight.com/p95-maintenance-free-dual-cartridge-respirator-large-67727.html
These are cheap but they will do the job .http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-43-amp-angle-grinder-60625.html

 

[gm280]

Very good point Sam!