alignment issue

[dwheeler7676]

Re: alignment issue

I suspect you have mis-understood my last post. I am not referring to the fibre washer with the double coil washer inside it. I have read your posts that you installed that. I'm referring to the spacer inside the flywheel cover that goes in before you press the rubber mounts in. Refer to the diagram, item #3....

Chris.........

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your clarification (especially the diagram), but if the engine was simply pulled, set aside (where only only certain auxilliary components where replaced - exhaust manifolds, w/p, thermostat, starter, etc.), and then the engine put back in place, wouldn't the components you mention have remained in place, as is?

In your experiance, is it likely that either of them (rubber washer or spacer) could simply fall out, especially both sides, and then go unnoticed during reinstallation? Isn't the [metal] spacer captured above the pressed-in rubber mount?

(Note: The reinstall went fairly smoothly [other than tight fit going through engine hatch], the coil and fiber washers were in place as the engine was lowered onto the rear transom plate and front engine mounts, bolts guided and inserted, snugged and torqued according to manual specs. I admit, it 's not easy to run down to boat now, open and crawl under the cover, work my way into the [dark] engine compartment to take a peek, but I'm pretty sure those items were [always] in place, before, during and after.)

Given the above, what do you think? (Regardless, I will check this eventually.. likely in the spring... Thanks again!

"http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/components/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewparts&colid=04&coldesc=230%2F5%2E0LX%20%284%20BBL%2E%29%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20GM%20305%20V%2D8%201987%2D1995&index=1014&block=360&BlockNumberList=80,70,50,60,470,490,180,140,160,170,130,150,270,250,260,240,110,440,450,460,90,100,350,340,190,200,370,360,120,290,300,480,0,410,400,310,280,390,380,430,420,320,330,210,220,230,20,40,30,10[/url]
"http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/components/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewparts&colid=04&coldesc=R%2FMR%2FALPHA%20ONE%20%28Transom%20Assembly%29%201983%2D1990&index=2203&block=10&BlockNumberList=230,50,250,0,60,70,100,80,120,110,90,130,20,30,40,190,180,140,160,150,170,240,220,200,10,210[/url]

 

[achris]

Re: alignment issue

Sorry about the mis-understanding, my fault this time. I read into one of your posts that you replaced the rear mounts. If you didn't, was the drive a bit tight to remove? I have seen more than one of those rear mounts 'sag' with time, giving the exact symptom you describe. As you have already been told (about a thousand times!) you really do need the proper alignment tool. The gimbal bearing is called that because it, well, gimbals. It's designed to move around in its carrier (and if you ever replace it, you replace the bearing and the carrier as a unit). When you put the alignment tool in, sometimes you have to move the bearing around a bit before the tool runs into the coupler. If the bearing is tight (in the carrier), then you could get a false reading on the tool. You have to move the bearing around until it really is in the exact centre. This can't be done by eye or with 'backyard' tools. Merc recommend that the alignment be checked at 90 degree intervals and an average point be the setting.

The other thing mentioned by another poster is the order of the bolt and hardware above the rear mount. You sound like you know what you're doing so I suspect it is correct, but have to ask. Bolt with large washer, goes through spacer, then into rear mount. Tighten to 35lb-ft. You've already said that the fibre washer and double wound 'special washer' are in place, so I won't ask you about that, again.

Leaving the leg in place over a period of time with the alignment out will damage the coupler and you will never get a correct alignment reading from that coupler again. The rubber takes a 'set'.

Chris............

 

[dwheeler7676]

Re: alignment issue

Chris-

Thanks again. Yes, the order and torque for those rear engine bolts, washers and spacers are as you describe. No, the drive has always slid out (and in) alright for removal and periodic service. After the engine/transom removal/re-install, it was harder to slide back on, it took some rocking and extra shoving to make it go the last inch or two (when the wider diameter of the drive shaft slides fully into the gimbal bearing and the splines are deep in the coupler). This implies alignment must have been close, or I wouldn't have gotten nearly that far - and I wouldn't have done even that except for seeing many other boats in the yard require similar installation efforts over the years (though, I should add, not *my* boat).

As you infer, I understand fully the gimbal bearing issue, how it rotates and can get cocked, the need to replace bearing and carrier together, etc., and I only removed the bearing to repack it *after* checking alignment and finding/suspecting it was off. (Rotating the engine/coupler had no effect on the suspected misalignment - it was always the same).

(Note: If I had my druthers, I'd have stopped as soon as the transom plate cracked, gotten a new (or used) one, even covered the whole thing up 'til spring, in order to proceed in a proper and orderly fashion... but I had to get the dang thing out of my friend's yard and off his trailer before winter. Even so, I still might have wound up with this alignment issue as far as I can tell.)

Your information about the coupler taking a set concurs with my fears, which is why I pulled the outdrive for the winter (to hopefully avoid any such effect).

Thanks again for your time and detailed and well considered advice... Santa didn't bring me an alignment tool this year, so I'll be looking for one on my own before I tackle this again come springtime... mebbe I'll talk more with you then!?!? (I'll understand if you turn to an easier post.)

Best regards to all.