96 5.7L Mercruiser - no compression, water in

[Rick Stephens]

Agree about pictures. READ the guide, there are rules.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum-rules-and-guidelines/9938375-photo-upload-tutorial

 

[Scott Danforth]

Im going to go with detonation

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

No Title

#5 dead cylinder - YIKES - everything rotates freely now

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

No Title

Here's the kicker - valves are PERFECT - 3rd from right is the dead cylinder #5. The gasket is flattened out between 3 and 5 so that is why I was getting water in both. I just don't understand what happened.

Either something fell down the intake tract or detonation, right?

So now, trying to decide... get this thing honed out, punched out and rebuild... or just grab a replacement from rapido.

Now I almost feel like going to craigslist and grabbing another 350, checking compression and swapping to marine headgaskets and throwing this puppy back together. I also read that I would have to switch too brass plugs. not sure if there is anything else to watch out for. Need to read some more on this option.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

can't figure out how to edit but correction - 3rd from left is the dead cylinder #5

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would pull the valves from the head to inspect the face and seats.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

I would pull the valves from the head to inspect the face and seats.

Do I need to record where each valves belongs and replace them back to the same cylinder location like push rods? Was thinking of taking my heads to NAPA or somewhere to verify they are good.

 

[tpenfield]

Usually you keep the valve where they originated from. Some folks tag them, others use a bin system to keep the parts organized. If you are planning on taking the engine to a rebuild shop, they will most likely keep things in order.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I label each head and each cylinder and then put the components in a plastic zip-lock

head #1, Head #2, cylinder A, Cylinder B, etc.

so I have zip locks labeled 1AI, 1AE, 1BI, and so on

the head gets stamped as well as the cylinder numbered in the intake valley area. makes it easy for me and the machine shop

quick test of the head, brace head so the deck surface is flat, fill chamber with acetone. if it leaks out, you need head work. disassemble from there to find out how much work.

however I would personally throw away your '95 heads and go with the 96 and later vortec heads

your smog head:

vortec head:

 

[Rick Stephens]

I like Vortec heads.... that said, only other cost with Vortec heads is a compatible intake.

 

[Lou C]

When you removed the head, there was nothing in the cyl to cause that damage?
​What did the spark plug look like, were both electrodes present?
​Take a good look at your carb, specifically the choke and throttle shafts, look for missing screws. This very rarely happens but when it does, that can be the result.

 

[hoowahfun]

​What did the spark plug look like, were both electrodes present?
​Take a good look at your carb, specifically the choke and throttle shafts, look for missing screws. This very rarely happens but when it does, that can be the result.

I second that. My first thought was to check the electrode or ceramic around the spark plug. Could something have been sucked back in through the exhaust shutter? Seems like if it was a metal piece it would be there somewhere unless it somehow made it's way out or was just pulverized. Who knows. Guess if nothing shows up it was detonation, but I would want to give it a thorough look especially since you heard something drop.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

I like Vortec heads.... that said, only other cost with Vortec heads is a compatible intake.

So, I've decided to purchase the Vortec Longblock from Rapido. Some of the info on the net is super confusing. My block says 880 casing (96 Rinker) and has a mechanical fuel pump. Talking with Rapido today, they said they don't have 880 blocks with the opening for mechanical fuel and I need to switch to electric. Raul never called me back later today but we were supposed to talk out what that entails. They have a 638 block for a mechanical fuel pump though... that's not what is in my rinker.

Your comment now makes me curious. Is my 12 bolt intake not going to fit this Vortec 880 package?

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

When you removed the head, there was nothing in the cyl to cause that damage?
​What did the spark plug look like, were both electrodes present?
​Take a good look at your carb, specifically the choke and throttle shafts, look for missing screws. This very rarely happens but when it does, that can be the result.

All 8 plugs are in tact with no missing material on insulator or electrode (single strap). Just went back to the garage to verify again. There was no actual loose material in the cylinders, Just appears to be detonated piston chunks. Now I'm wondering if my intake or carb gasket is damaged and was letting extra air in. I've never seen water pooling around the engine as we are suspended on a mooring buoy. Definitely 2 substantial flash floods and rain fall came through about 3 or 4 weeks ago. Water definitely leaks through the decklid edges though and around the edges of the engine compartment. Bilge float pumps anything out on it's own as I've never seen water really accumulate in the bilge area other than the final 1/2 ish inch that is always there.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

I second that. My first thought was to check the electrode or ceramic around the spark plug. Could something have been sucked back in through the exhaust shutter? Seems like if it was a metal piece it would be there somewhere unless it somehow made it's way out or was just pulverized. Who knows. Guess if nothing shows up it was detonation, but I would want to give it a thorough look especially since you heard something drop.

This is how I found my exhaust shutters today. Both sides were weak and open. I have new ones on the way but I don't see any indication of water contamination upstream of the risers. But, could have been a one time water entry. I understand newer boats no longer have them but I'm sure the Y is designed to avoid the situation. Wanted to replace them for piece of mind for this new LB I'm about to throw at the Rinker.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

No Title

whoops, forgot the pic of the shutter

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

I label each head and each cylinder and then put the components in a plastic zip-lock

head #1, Head #2, cylinder A, Cylinder B, etc.

so I have zip locks labeled 1AI, 1AE, 1BI, and so on

the head gets stamped as well as the cylinder numbered in the intake valley area. makes it easy for me and the machine shop

quick test of the head, brace head so the deck surface is flat, fill chamber with acetone. if it leaks out, you need head work. disassemble from there to find out how much work.

however I would personally throw away your '95 heads and go with the 96 and later vortec heads

EDIT - nvm - I see the difference in the head now. Was saying I don't quite see the difference other than the valves look different.

So, if I'm picture this acetone test correctly. You are saying, valves up, correct? lay it on it's rocker arms kinda so it's level and pour the acetone into each camber to see if it leaks through the valves or anywhere? I'm assuming the valves are all now closed with no cam to push them open.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

Does anyone have any go-to sites for serial numbers? I'm not seeing my serial number on any site as a valid mercury S/N.

Tag on side of block says S/N F765868
Bock says 880 on side and back of block says 10243880.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

Rick - after doing some researching, looks like I have the intake that has 8 bolts at 90 degree angle and 4 bolts at a different angle, indicating that I have a pre 96, non-vortec setup (I see the difference in heads now). I guess it's the block casting that throws me off. Yes, it would be nice to get the vortec but looks like another 400 for the 8 bolt intake, need to get an electric fuel pump setup somehow. I'm not big on speed on the water. I just need the thing to run and be reliable.

So, in your opinion, should I just go get the 638 casting from Rapido. That would allow me to keep my current intake and mechanical fuel pump. I will stay at my normal 260hp rather than get it up to 295ish for the Vortec and have to buy another intake and fuel pump which I'm not really interested in. I guess my current 880 block was throwing me for a loop when looking at rapido's website for year breakdown. I thought that meant I head a vortec. Goodness, I feel like i have been either in the boat pulling the motor components or on this forum and researching on the net for 2 days straight!

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

No Title

Progress Update for the night - block is completely free and stripped down and I have the Alpha One pulled off. Seems I broke a cable connector while pulling the drive so need to figure out what that is and replace it. The videos I watched never mentioned anything about it. That's what I get for watching a video instead of going by the service manual.

My friend's puller didn't extend high enough so I'm going to place a wooden beam across 3 or 4 trusses in my garage and go buy a chain hoist. Looks like I have about 9 1/2 feet of clearing to the bottom of the truss. I need right at 8' for the bottom of the oil pain to clear the transom.