'73 105hp different flywheel?

[spool]

Hey,

a while back i bought a new flywheel for my 105 as i broke a few peice off when i was trying to remove it from the engine (it was well and truely seized on)

Anyway, the engine ran well on the old flywheel and started easily but after swapping to the new flywheel it ran worse and was hard to start when cold, also it wouldnt hit full speed on the water (25knots is the best i could do, normally the boat can do atleast 40)

I didnt have a tacho installed last time i took it out so i couldnt tell what rpm i was hitting (i have one fitted now)

So i puilled the flywheel off and compared it to the old one, it appears the flywheel drive gear is 1/2 tooth off (360deg/34teeth/2 = 5.2deg out)

Anyway so down to my question, did chrysler only make 1 flywheel and has the pressed in peice with the keyslot slipped OR did i get the wrong flywheel? it was from a chrysler the wrecker didnt tell me which one, it looks identical to the original one.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: '73 105hp different flywheel?

Three and four cylinder Chrysler engines with Motorola ignition all used the same flywheel. Before doing anything else remove the flywheel and see if the key is sheared. If it is, use a new one, lap the hub to the crankshaft taper, and torque the flywheel to 95 foot pounds.

It is POSSIBLE to have shifted the cast-in steel hub but quite frankly (no pun intended) I suspect that this would be a very rare occurrence. I have never seen one on a Chrysler engine-- on an OMC yes, but on a Chrysler, no.

Back to basics: The flywheel for a Motorola ignition is dirt simple. The rim magnets are there simply to charge the battery and the center pulley simply drives the distributor belt. It does not matter at all where the flywheel is placed as long as the distributor is set to TDC when the TDC mark--any mark-- is set to match the pointer on the block.

The block pointer is set on slots so there is some adjustment there. That is, when the top piston is at TDC the pointer is set to match the line on the flywheel -- again, any line-- that indicates 0 degrees or TDC.

ALL this to say: 1. check the flywheel at TDC to see if the 0 mark lines up with the block pointer. If it does not and the pointer does not have sufficient adjustment, scribe a new line on the flywheel 2. loosen the distributor and with the top piston at TDC and the flywheel indicating TDC, set the distributor pulley so that the curved line matches the curve in the flywheel and the straight line points directly at it. 3. Now, everything is set to TDC and you can re-time the engine to 30 or 32 degrees BTDC at WOT. If you have scribed a new TDC line on the flywheel, figure where 32 deg would be by counting teeth.

And your numbers are wrong: The flywheel ring gear has (I think) 94 or 96 teeth so you are off by only about 2 degrees. If you are talking about the distributor drive pulley in the center of the flywheel, I have never counted teeth but 34 sounds about right. If this is off,. remember that the ONLY important thing is that the distributor and flywheel MARKS both indicate TDC. It doesn't matter how you get there.

 

[spool]

Re: '73 105hp different flywheel?

Three and four cylinder Chrysler engines with Motorola ignition all used the same flywheel. Before doing anything else remove the flywheel and see if the key is sheared. If it is, use a new one, lap the hub to the crankshaft taper, and torque the flywheel to 95 foot pounds.

It is POSSIBLE to have shifted the cast-in steel hub but quite frankly (no pun intended) I suspect that this would be a very rare occurrence. I have never seen one on a Chrysler engine-- on an OMC yes, but on a Chrysler, no.

Back to basics: The flywheel for a Motorola ignition is dirt simple. The rim magnets are there simply to charge the battery and the center pulley simply drives the distributor belt. It does not matter at all where the flywheel is placed as long as the distributor is set to TDC when the TDC mark--any mark-- is set to match the pointer on the block.

The block pointer is set on slots so there is some adjustment there. That is, when the top piston is at TDC the pointer is set to match the line on the flywheel -- again, any line-- that indicates 0 degrees or TDC.

ALL this to say: 1. check the flywheel at TDC to see if the 0 mark lines up with the block pointer. If it does not and the pointer does not have sufficient adjustment, scribe a new line on the flywheel 2. loosen the distributor and with the top piston at TDC and the flywheel indicating TDC, set the distributor pulley so that the curved line matches the curve in the flywheel and the straight line points directly at it. 3. Now, everything is set to TDC and you can re-time the engine to 30 or 32 degrees BTDC at WOT. If you have scribed a new TDC line on the flywheel, figure where 32 deg would be by counting teeth.

And your numbers are wrong: The flywheel ring gear has (I think) 94 or 96 teeth so you are off by only about 2 degrees. If you are talking about the distributor drive pulley in the center of the flywheel, I have never counted teeth but 34 sounds about right. If this is off,. remember that the ONLY important thing is that the distributor and flywheel MARKS both indicate TDC. It doesn't matter how you get there.

i got to the bottom of it, the timing locater on the block was off by a few deg. It's running well now thanks Frank!

the distributor drive on the flywheel has 34 teeth the flywheel ring gear has 97 on mine.