5L not getting water into block!

[thumpar]

You need the thermostat housing posted in one of the previous posts. It should have a hose from the drive, a hose to the water circ pump and 2 hoses that go to the manifolds.

 

[LX Kid]

You need the thermostat housing posted in one of the previous posts. It should have a hose from the drive, a hose to the water circ pump and 2 hoses that go to the manifolds.

Once I got the exhaust manifold off I see where the larger 2nd hose, on the circulating pump,connected to the power steering cooler and the other smaller hose goes into the bottom of the exhaust manifold. I already checked, with a garden hose, the larger hose and it passed water thru it to the outdrive but will make sure once again that water volume was going thru. Someone else was watching and said water was coming out but I didn't get to see how much water was passing. Just want to make sure the power steering cooler is not plugged.

 

[thumpar]

It does pass through the power steering cooler but the water in the hose is coming from the drive through the transom.

 

[LX Kid]

Not related but a few things still to be done before launching for this season. (Like we really have a season here in Florida! Ha)

Please no responses to muddy up this over-heating problem! For info only! Thanks

Have to bleed all the old fluid out of the trim pump as it won't down but did go up to remove lower unit.

Put longer bolt and nut on the alternator adjusting bolt. Stripped in the alternator side.

Replace the spark plugs

Install an oil filter relocation kit that I've had for several years. Change oil while I'm down there. Good time to get-r-done when I pull off the port side exhaust manifold Monday.

Have to replace the trailer wheel bearings and install Bearing Buddy's. I think my trailer in under specs for my Grady. Trailer is only rated 5,000 lbs and is probably why I've been have so many bearing problems over the years.

 

[LX Kid]

I JUST CAN'T SEEM TO GET A BREAK! I "WAS" going to pull off the port side exhaust manifold this afternoon and discovered that 3 of the 4 bolt heads are rusted away! As I see it, right now, the only way to get at the bolts would be to "pull the engine" and that's just not going to happen in my yard. It would be nice to have that capability but I don't. The only "good" thing, at the moment, is it appears to be flowing water alright. I'm going to put the "free flow" gaskets which will help a lot in letting water circulate on out thru the exhaust. I'm sure I can get to the elbow, in the bottom, to do as much cleaning as possible in the elbow area.

When the inevitable blockage comes, and I still own the boat, it may be possible to use a die grinder with carbide rasp and a mirror to grind off the heads. The bolt heads can't be seen from topside. I could then slide the manifold over about 3" and cut the bolt stubs off in order to lift it out. I don't want to do that risky job right now as long as the manifold doesn't have restricted water flow.

 

[thumpar]

Before you get too far you might try the sockets for stripped bolts. I have a set of craftsman that work great.

 

[LX Kid]

Before you get too far you might try the sockets for stripped bolts. I have a set of craftsman that work great.

Might be worth a try. "But" feeling around them they seem to be half gone and those sockets may not have enough to grab on to. Just might be worth the $20 investment though.

When all this is over and I'm nearing my end, I'm thinking I should write a book entitled "Old Boats and Men With Small Wallets!" LoL

 

[Bt Doctur]

So far we have blocked manifolds, corroded exaust manifold bolts,Now what shape do you think the other parts are in?
oil pan rust spots, starter bolts frozen, rear mounting bolts seized, Your best bet is to have the motor pulled, correct all the things that are wrong. run the motor on a pallet to make sure everything is good and then reinstall the motor. Takes about 2 hours to prep and pull IF nothing is seized.

 

[LX Kid]

My buddy and I tried putting the lower back on this afternoon and ruined the upper shaft seal "once again!" We tried about five times to get the lower to mate up and just wouldn't go on. Shifter in gear and all the way forward. There is a splined tube that fits over the gear change shaft, on the lower, that keeps falling down. It will only go into the upper one way. I think it's not mating properly and not letting the lower go all the way on to be able to bolt on all the nuts. I dabbed some silicone on the tube to hold it in the up position and will put another upper seal in tomorrow. My tilt is all the way up, won't go down, and causes mating to be at about a 45 degree angle. That makes mating difficult. I'll work on that before trying it again. Will also have to dig a pit in the sand for clearance after getting the lower in the down position. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Not going to use that expensive Quicksilver stuff!

 

[Bt Doctur]

Your doing it all wrong, pm me your cell
What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Not going to use that expensive Quicksilver stuff!

Then plan on buying another outdrive

 

[thumpar]

You should have the whole drive off when putting the halves together.

 

[LX Kid]

Your doing it all wrong, pm me your cell
What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Not going to use that expensive Quicksilver stuff!

Then plan on buying another outdrive

The trans fluid goes in the trim pump not for the lower unit. I'm using Quicksilver 90w in the lower. I may have articulated that in wrong way! Sorry

 

[Bondo]

I think it's not mating properly and not letting the lower go all the way on to be able to bolt on all the nuts. I dabbed some silicone on the tube to hold it in the up position

Ayuh,.... It sounds like yer missin' the big washer that holds the shift foot high enough to engage the shift shoe,.....

Do ya have the controller in Forward,..??

Are ya holdin' tension on the prop shaft, to hold the lower unit in Forward,..??

Pull the aft pins outa the trim rams, 'n you can angle the drive, anyway ya want too,....
Tie 'em Up, if left on the ground, they won't clear the lower to put 'em back on,...

 

[LX Kid]

Your doing it all wrong, pm me your cell
What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Not going to use that expensive Quicksilver stuff!
Then plan on buying another outdrive

I now know the error of my ways! Thanks I'll give it another try tomorrow.

 

[LX Kid]

Is still the wisdom to leave off the rubber o-ring at the top of the lower input shaft? How does one keep from buggering up the upper seal when replacing the lower to the upper? No matter how careful I try to be the shaft wants to wobble around and damage the seal. Is it because I'm Magilla the Gorilla in handling it? LoL

 

[flipbro]

Well Magill the trick is patience. And getting things in a position that's not akward to work..

 

[Grub54891]

Yeah, you don't need that o-ring on the shaft. Merc discontinued it a long time ago. Never messed up a seal myself, as long as you are putting it on straight, it should side right in.

 

[LX Kid]

Special thanks to Bt Doctur for his help in "pulling my bacon out of the fire!" LoL

Pulled the old seal out this morning and cleaned the upper splines. In doing so I found a hard piece of rubber floating around near the pre-load hole. Used brake cleaner to get all the splines clean and ready for my next try. I'll put some hyploid grease up in there before insertion. I checked the trim pump and is full of oil. I'll crack the rams fittings and stand on the lower to see if it will go down. If not that will tell me if the rams have problems. Pump runs but no worky!

Didn't get a chance to put the lower back on. Try again tomorrow before it rains.

 

[LX Kid]

Got the lower back on and was able to get the trim back to working. Due to the exhaust manifold is waiting for gaskets to arrive I can't check out the cooling but am very optimistic that it will work fine. The trim rams were frozen in the up position so I removed the hydraulic lines and a buddy and I stood on the drive and if finally broke loose. It raises fine be is rather slow to do down. Don't know why but has always been slow to go down. After checking the cooling, when parts arrive, is check out the trailer bearings and get the inertia brake working. Getting pretty close to getting her in the water once again.

 

[Bondo]

Due to the exhaust manifold is waiting for gaskets to arrive I can't check out the cooling but am very optimistic that it will work fine.

Ayuh,..... You really need to change the t-stat housin' to match the exhaust manifolds that are now on the motor,....

The Bozo Bubblegum job on there is Not at all Right,.....

Matter of fact, it'a All Wrong, in more ways than one,....