1985 Starcraft SS 160 with 75HP Mercury Outboard restoration and upgrades

EchoNovember

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Drop a box fan inside, that'll speed things up.

That was the plan, as soon as there is no more rain in the forecast. However, I may just drop one in the bow to push the moist air towards the back and out the aft vents on the boat cover.

I was already thinking of getting a damp rid for the boat to keep under the cover while storing it between uses, but I'm thinking that could be a waste as it would also pull in moisture from the outside air as well, or even cause more moisture to pull in under the cover. Thoughts? We're planning a restoration over the winter as the garage is insulated and can be heated, but we need to slow down the rot until then. All wood next to the hull (deck, sides, ski locker, etc) is slowly rotting, and we just need it to last the season. Afterwards we're restoring the boat and putting in marine grade for the deck and ski locker, and exterior grade everywhere else, all sealed with epoxy and 5200, and gluvit for the hull inside and out. When we're done with it, the boat is going to be good as new and last a lot longer than new.
 

EchoNovember

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I still need to figure out how to plumb the livewell. It has two existing holes, one on the side a few inches up, and one on the boat. There are two holes with sealed plugs at the stern. I'd be removing the existing fittings and putting in new ones as they were capped and sealed with silicone.

After looking at diagrams online, I was thinking about using the drain in the bottom to drain into a recirculating pump and running the intake back in through the side with a T fitting to run a smaller pipe up the front of the livewell with a submerged aerator bar aimed aft to provide current, and another aerator bar on the top to actually aerate. The drain would run to a T valve where I could switch between letting it drain out the back of the boat or direct it into the pump. I would probably also have to drill another hole for use as an overflow, going into the drain at the back through a check valve. For the intake, I would have a T valve to let me pump water in from the lake to fill the livewell, then shut it off to just recirculate the water.

Ideally, I'd like to be able to just run water in from the lake, aerate it, and drain it back out through the overflow, using a removable standpipe in the drain hole as the overflow. When it's time to leave the lake, I'd remove the standpipe and drain the water out that way.

I could also just run pump to fill the livewell, put it on a timer to pump every 5-10 minutes for 30 seconds to refresh the water a bit to lower ammonia levels, put in the overflow standpipe as described above, and use an internal pump to aerate the water and provide some current. I posted a diagram of my existing livewell and the odd shape it has, which necessitates putting something up front to make sure aerated water is thoroughly dispersed. It's somewhere in this thread.

Everything would be made from smooth bore PVC, no corrugated flexible hoses that could trap Eurasian milfoil or let small zebra mussels "hide" out, or let anything else get easily caught in the tubing. Something that would be easy to flush with hot water to kill stuff off.

Minnesota has a big problem with inconsiderate boaters who don't take invasive species seriously, and it's affecting the lakes. Lake Minnetonka, the largest and most popular lake in the Twin Cities, is thoroughly infested with Eurasian milfoil and zebra mussels. So are many lakes. It's affecting local populations of native mussels, pushing out native plants, and impacting fish counts. It all comes from boaters not cleaning off their boats, emptying their bilge and let it dry out long enough between lakes, and just a "whatever" attitude about it. All it takes is one person to infest an entire lake. We took advantage of a free hot water wash at one of the lakes, and even had him pump the hot water in through the boat drain to heat up and kill off anything that may have been in the bilge, while running the bilge pump to flush that out, too. We plan on using the boat at a few different lakes, so we take no chances. Better safe than sorry!

But I digress, I need to get that livewell figured out as it's the next thing I want to do after the transom, though it will be easier to do while the splashwell is off.
 

Watermann

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The LW overflow would've been the fitting on the side of the hull. I had to change my LW set up use an overflow out the side as it wouldn't drain properly just using the fitting out the back. The main reason why it wouldn't properly drain is the LW is sealed and had no direct way to vent until I added the above the waterline overflow. I would consider using the large diameter 1-1/8" drain fittings and hose. The hose is super slick inside and very rigid reinforced so it won't collapse or kink.
 

EchoNovember

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I only have a hole in the side of the hull for the bilge pump. I don't have another hole right now and until the full resto I don't want to drill any new holes that will require pulling things apart.
 

EchoNovember

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Which brings me back to a previous idea of draining it into the bilge and using an automatic bilge pump, but that's not the greatest idea in the world...
 

EchoNovember

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To side track a bit, I've been thinking about putting a mounting plate in the floor in the bow for dual purpose. I want to be able to mount a fishing chair on a tall pedestal, and also be able to use it for a small table. The problem with a table would be getting past it to the seats... An alternative idea for the chair is to remove the cushions and put in a platform with the seat on it. Keeping with the convertible idea of the boat, being able to convert the boat from fun to fish and back, depending on the purpose of the trip.
 

EchoNovember

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We're almost done mounting the trolling motor on the bow. Still need to do the transom, and I'm hoping to take care of that in the next couple of weeks, but we'll see how that goes...

Going to take my father out fishing on Sunday, so trolling motor is the priority right now. It's a bow mount Minn Kota Autopilot. It's an older model, but I picked it up for $125 off Craigslist, so no complaints. The autopilot function works, and that's the important part for me.
 

SHSU

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You got any pics? Would love to see how you are adding your Trolling Motor. Also, any design sketches on your table/pedestal mount? Sounds like something I have toyed around with in my head but haven't really put anything to paper, yet......
 

EchoNovember

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I'll have to get pics later. Also, we'll be reinforcing the hell out of the bow where we mounted it. We put a 1/2" thick piece of finish quality pine underneath as a temporary backer. Note: 55lbs of thrust WILL flex the bow noticeably. Lol. At least it isn't permanently damaging it. It was fun to watch it flex as we fired up the trolling motor on the water.

The engine was purring and firing up on dry land with the mufflers, but it won't in the water. Best I can come up with is that there isn't enough exhaust pressure. It seems the water resisting the exhaust is causing it to die at idle and have problems starting. I could really use some help here...

Also, I still need to figure out how to plumb that livewell. There are only two holes in it. I've found a couple photos elsewhere showing Starcrafts of the same age and model with that livewell, but I can't find the pictures or info needed to tell me how to plumb it. We have a family trip coming up where we will be doing lots of fishing on a lake where Perch will bite anything, including empty hooks! I really want to have a working livewell before we head up there.
 

EchoNovember

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Random thought. Is there a check valve I can put on the splashwell drain hole? I keep getting water splashing in through there. With the separation I have right now between my transom and the splashwell, I've been considering just shoving a drain plug in there for now. I get almost no water up over the transom, only through the drain hole which then drains into the bilge.
 

SHSU

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I'll have to get pics later. Also, we'll be reinforcing the hell out of the bow where we mounted it. We put a 1/2" thick piece of finish quality pine underneath as a temporary backer. Note: 55lbs of thrust WILL flex the bow noticeably. Lol. At least it isn't permanently damaging it. It was fun to watch it flex as we fired up the trolling motor on the water.

I am sure that was a fun site to see!!!! LOL


The engine was purring and firing up on dry land with the mufflers, but it won't in the water. Best I can come up with is that there isn't enough exhaust pressure. It seems the water resisting the exhaust is causing it to die at idle and have problems starting. I could really use some help here...

If i remember you did a complete clean up of the carbs. One way to test without going to lake is to fill a garbage can with water and dip the motor into that. It would simulate the back pressure on the motor and allow you to verify your theory. I am assuming you have verified your gas supply/checked for good spark and such.


Also, I still need to figure out how to plumb that livewell. There are only two holes in it. I've found a couple photos elsewhere showing Starcrafts of the same age and model with that livewell, but I can't find the pictures or info needed to tell me how to plumb it. We have a family trip coming up where we will be doing lots of fishing on a lake where Perch will bite anything, including empty hooks! I really want to have a working livewell before we head up there.

I know you want to have a working livewell when you go out next. Just a thought, what about just plugging the holes, filling the tank with water from a bucket and using a standard bubbler for this trip (Use frozen water bottles to keep water cool). I hate to think of all the work you will be trying to do, and then rip it out when you do your rebuild this winter. I would make it useable for the rest of the summer and then do a propper rebuild of it when you can get at everything and make it correctly. Plus it gives you a little more time to mull over what you want to do. JMHO
 

SHSU

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Random thought. Is there a check valve I can put on the splashwell drain hole? I keep getting water splashing in through there. With the separation I have right now between my transom and the splashwell, I've been considering just shoving a drain plug in there for now. I get almost no water up over the transom, only through the drain hole which then drains into the bilge.


I wouldn't worry about it to much since you are planning on doing a rebuild this winter; however, if it really is bothering you, I would not plug the hole as it is supposed to be a safety measure. Even though you don't get a lot of splash, it only takes one time to swamp it. You may look into getting a scupper flap. It will help prevent water coming in but allow water out.


Scupper Flap.png
 

EchoNovember

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I am sure that was a fun site to see!!!! LOL

It definitely was. Especially when I didn't latch the trolling motor all the way down, and fired it up. It took off right up out of the water and danced on top, scaring away all of the fish... >< A 55 lb motor pulls that boat so strongly, and quickly, that I've abandoned all thoughts of getting a 6 HP kicker for smaller lakes, and will instead buy a second battery and just use the trolling motor to move around the lake. We were surprised at the speed and power. By Minn Kota's calculation of 5lbs of thrust per 200lbs of boat, we needed a 40lb thrust motor max. I like overkill. Plus, at lower motor speeds we still get good trolling speeds with more efficient power draw.

If i remember you did a complete clean up of the carbs. One way to test without going to lake is to fill a garbage can with water and dip the motor into that. It would simulate the back pressure on the motor and allow you to verify your theory. I am assuming you have verified your gas supply/checked for good spark and such.

Spark is fine, gas is getting to it. As far as fuel goes, I've considered replacing the fuel line to the motor with a higher diameter line, but its already twice the size of what is in the motor itself. I could shorten the line to make it easier on the fuel pump (less distance to pull the gas from), but by maybe 6 inches.

I know you want to have a working livewell when you go out next. Just a thought, what about just plugging the holes, filling the tank with water from a bucket and using a standard bubbler for this trip (Use frozen water bottles to keep water cool). I hate to think of all the work you will be trying to do, and then rip it out when you do your rebuild this winter. I would make it useable for the rest of the summer and then do a propper rebuild of it when you can get at everything and make it correctly. Plus it gives you a little more time to mull over what you want to do. JMHO

[/QUOTE]

That is actually a really good idea... I would need to install a drain, though, to be compliant with the Invasive Species Prevention act or what it's called. I really don't want to be responsible for introducing something into another lake. I may just set it up to recirculate the water through an aeration bar internally, and then drain it into the bilge. Goodness knows the bilge is already getting a fair amount of water... Although this last trip the only time water got in the bilge was when we were backing away from the dock and it was going in through the splashwell drain and then down through the gap into the bilge. Water that gets into the splashwell does drain out of the splashwell, it drains into the bilge. All of it drains into the bilge. We ran the pump after getting underway, and then each time we ran it after that there was nothing to pump out. When we pulled the boat out of the water and pulled the plug, not a lot of water came out. A fair, but reasonable, amount drained out.

I'm thinking if we pulled the livewell drain when we pull the drain plug after retrieving the boat, it would drain into the bilge and then right on out. Thoughts on that one?
 

SHSU

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By Minn Kota's calculation of 5lbs of thrust per 200lbs of boat, we needed a 40lb thrust motor max. I like overkill. Plus, at lower motor speeds we still get good trolling speeds with more efficient power draw.

Thats good to know, I was thinking about getting one for my boat but wasn't sure on the thrust size. With your first hand experience I feel comfortable in not needing to go up to the 55 or higher.

Spark is fine, gas is getting to it. As far as fuel goes, I've considered replacing the fuel line to the motor with a higher diameter line, but its already twice the size of what is in the motor itself. I could shorten the line to make it easier on the fuel pump (less distance to pull the gas from), but by maybe 6 inches.

So is it starting at all when you are in the lake? I thought that it wasn't starting. Does it sputter out after a couple seconds/minutes?


I'm thinking if we pulled the livewell drain when we pull the drain plug after retrieving the boat, it would drain into the bilge and then right on out. Thoughts on that one?

For a quick solution with what you are planning that sounds like a simple solution. I would run a lot of fresh water after it to make sure I get as much of the fishy oils and scales down to the bilge where i could clean them out. Don't want them festering and smelling up the boat. Another option when draining is to stick some kind of mesh in the drain hole when pulling the plug so it catches the scales and such to be cleaned out.
 

EchoNovember

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Thats good to know, I was thinking about getting one for my boat but wasn't sure on the thrust size. With your first hand experience I feel comfortable in not needing to go up to the 55 or higher.

I'd still recommend the 55lb. It's going to be our motor for low speed maneuvering, like launch and retrieval, the motor for small lakes with HP restrictions, and as an emergency motor. Plus, the higher power moves you at lower throttle more efficiently than the smaller motors at high throttle. Same speed, lower battery drain, more trolling time.

So is it starting at all when you are in the lake? I thought that it wasn't starting. Does it sputter out after a couple seconds/minutes?

It's starting, but only when pushing the neutral switch and then revving up the throttle. Once in reverse, it dies almost immediately. Once in idle, it sputters out quickly, and dies. Pushing in the choke has done nothing to help this, just kills it faster after a momentary increase in RPMs.

For a quick solution with what you are planning that sounds like a simple solution. I would run a lot of fresh water after it to make sure I get as much of the fishy oils and scales down to the bilge where i could clean them out. Don't want them festering and smelling up the boat. Another option when draining is to stick some kind of mesh in the drain hole when pulling the plug so it catches the scales and such to be cleaned out.

[/QUOTE]

Didn't think about the fish scales and oils and other waste... I think I'll just siphon it out and then let it dry out with the lid open. I don't want to stink up the boat. I really need to get behind the battery and check the patched area on the stern. I think it was where the livewell drain was at one point. I might just drill new holes for the intake and overflow. I have what appears to be an intake hole, though.

I would love to put one on the bottom of the boat so it will take in fresh water while on plane, as I don't think the existing hole will be low enough. I also don't want to have the intake tear off at 40 mph and rip a hole in the hull... My bilge pump can't handle catastrophic hull failures like that. I do want a larger bilge pump, though, and an automatic one at that. Looking at an 800 GPH automatic, should be able to use the existing hose and output hole. But that's down the road.
 

SHSU

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It's starting, but only when pushing the neutral switch and then revving up the throttle. Once in reverse, it dies almost immediately. Once in idle, it sputters out quickly, and dies. Pushing in the choke has done nothing to help this, just kills it faster after a momentary increase in RPMs.

That sounds like an engine starving for gas. You cleaned the carbs and put them back in the right order, correct? What RPMs are you idleing at?

I would love to put one on the bottom of the boat so it will take in fresh water while on plane, as I don't think the existing hole will be low enough. I also don't want to have the intake tear off at 40 mph and rip a hole in the hull...

I am still toying with this one. I have thought about the same thing. If I do go with a thru hull, I will get it professionally welded in and have a seacock added to it. At the same time, for the type of boat we have, I am also just thinking about a standard thru transom off the back with a high speed pickup to help when on plane.

I do want a larger bilge pump, though, and an automatic one at that. Looking at an 800 GPH automatic, should be able to use the existing hose and output hole. But that's down the road.

For me I plan on two bilge pumps. Both of them hooked up to separate automatic switches with horn. A 500 gph for standard use and bilge clean up, plus a 1100 gph as a crash pump. Since I will be mostly in Galveston Bay (Saltwater) want to make sure I can survive as long as possible before having to ditch her.
 

EchoNovember

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That sounds like an engine starving for gas. You cleaned the carbs and put them back in the right order, correct? What RPMs are you idleing at?

It's impossible to put them back in the wrong order unless you really try or take it completely apart. I didn't take them completely apart as I didn't have a small punch to remove the float pins. I don't have a tachometer of any kind, but would love to install one. Any thoughts on this one?

I am still toying with this one. I have thought about the same thing. If I do go with a thru hull, I will get it professionally welded in and have a seacock added to it. At the same time, for the type of boat we have, I am also just thinking about a standard thru transom off the back with a high speed pickup to help when on plane.

I'd prefer to stick with a thru transom if possible. I'm not familiar with anything beyond a strainer screen on the outside. Lol. I should really do some research...

For me I plan on two bilge pumps. Both of them hooked up to separate automatic switches with horn. A 500 gph for standard use and bilge clean up, plus a 1100 gph as a crash pump. Since I will be mostly in Galveston Bay (Saltwater) want to make sure I can survive as long as possible before having to ditch her.

[/QUOTE]

I had a similar plan, and still working it out. I wanted an 800 GPH automatic for everyday use with an indicator light to let me it's running. Then an 1100 GPH for a crash pump as well, and I like the idea of the horn. Throw in an emergency klaxon horn to get attention from anyone in range? I'm going to be be on lakes 99.99% of the time. The biggest body of water I may find myself on is Lake Superior, and at that point I'll also have a flare gun, marine radio, and full 24-72 hour marine survival kit. All shoved on the boat...somewhere...
 

82rude

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How many people are in your 160 at any time?I have a 1976 ss160 and i took out those idiotic back to back seats and put in 2 swivel pedestals.Sure frees up a fair amount of room.I have a 2011 60 hp evinrude etec on the back and a 74 6hp johnson sits right beside it for a kicker right on the transom.Just perfectly fits so both have their full range of movement.I also frequently fish on lake superior mostly out of Gros Cap just west of my town of Sault Ste Marie Ontario.
 

EchoNovember

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Oh yeah, the reason for the overkill 800 GPH is so that if I have to turn on the crash pump I have more to keep water out, and more time before ditching. 1900 GPH < 1600 GPH. Or, 31 GPM > 26 GPM. That extra volume being pumped out could buy precious minutes. Then again, the worst I am likely to run into is either an asshole boater who has no respect for others, like I did on Lake Minnetonka (lots of rich folks with no care for anyone else) and crash into and over a large wake and crack the hull, or literally run into another asshole. On Lake Superior, well, you've heard the song Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald? Weather and currents are my biggest fears on that lake, which is why I'll probably not go on it with my boat, especially with the persistent engine issues...
 
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