1985 Skeeter Starfire Rebuild

[kb5fjx]

I need to go get my waders.

 

[kb5fjx]

Ok, I have a question for anyone that has rebuilt a 1985 Skeeter Starfire 150. My Stringers are gone, nothing to measure to make the replacement Stringers. Do any of you still have the measurements from there rebuild. I need to know the height to get the floor right.

 

[gm280]

If you can find or get those measurements, you can pull strings across the hull exactly where you want the floor to be and make measurements every 6" to 12" along the way. I've done that for my stringers and bulkheads and amazingly it came out nice and flat. Just a suggestions. JMHO

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I'm not relying on my rotted stringers to give me the measurements I need in my Chap. No two boats were built the same IMO. I'm using some string line, (and helpers), laid from side to side anchored to where deck height should be. Using a tape measure I can measure points along the stringer, moving from stern to bow, (from stringline to hull), every few inches to get stringer dimensions. I will record these measurements every 2" the length of the stringer or bulkhead. I really don't think that any 2 stringers are cut the same. I think this is a pretty accurate way of doing it without wasting much material.

 

[Pusher]

Now I'm curious. This is kind of a tangent kb. I hope you don't mind.

We all like flat floors but why don't we do our stringers so the floors bows slighlty to the centerline? It would drain to the center and then to the back drain plug.

 

[gm280]

Now I'm curious. This is kind of a tangent kb. I hope you don't mind.

We all like flat floors but why don't we do our stringers so the floors bows slighlty to the centerline? It would drain to the center and then to the back drain plug.

Honestly, with a boat on the water constantly moving, it really doesn't need to be tapered or tilted towards the center. The water will find its way eventually to the bilge area. Even sitting at home, if the bow is high, and it should be, then the water will go to the lowest section and drain. JMHO

 

[Pusher]

I guess we're not building crabbing boats. Good point

 

[Camcorder77]

hey, did you figure out what to do with your stringers? I'm in the same boat with a 86 skeeter starfire 175. any advice? any pictures of your stringer work?

 

[Woodonglass]

As stated before, Establish the thickness of the deck and then mark the bottom line of the deck on both sides of the hull and transom. (Top of Gunwales, Down) Then run string lines across the beam to the marks. Then use cardboard and a school Pencil Compass to scribe a line off the bottom of the hull onto the cardboard to get the bottom configuration. Finally plumb Bob down from the string lines down to the hull to establish the height (about every 6 inches from Stern to Bow). Transfer all these measurements and the scribed bottom to your stringers. Cut em out. DONE!!!

 

[Camcorder77]

Are you putting foam back in your boat? Any thoughts from anyone on foam?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Foam provides structure, floatation, and sound deadening. I was a no foam kinda guy before, but I definitely see it's positives. Necessary evil you might say.

 

[kb5fjx]

Yep I am going back with foam. Is there an easy way to get out the unrotted part of the Transom, I have been thinking about just drilling holes all over and trying that, it's laminated in good on the backside.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I think most of the folks who post about this recommend using a circular saw with the depth set shallow enough to only cut the plywood. They cut in a cross cross pattern then dig it out. I never had to do this as my transom was pretty rotted.

 

[kb5fjx]

After starting work on this boat, the reason for the rot was poor hole filling, it appeared that power pols or something had been put on the boat at one time, they where removed and metal hole plugs where put in with silicone around them, but on one side it wasn't enough and a lot of water was leaking in every time the boat was placed i water.

 

[gm280]

Removing rotted transoms is interesting. You basically have to figure out what works best for your transom removal. Some folks cut them like stated above, others use pry bars and such. It really all depends on your particular setup and rot. I think mine was so rotted that it basically came out like mush. It was so wet and rotted, the it really didn't look like wood anymore. Just brown mush. I had to cut the fiberglass to get to the mush and I used a lot of different things. Then picked whatever seemed to do the better job. Just be careful to not cut through the outside. If you do, you will be repairing that before installing your new transom. But it isn't an Earth stopped if you do cut through. JMHO

 

[Camcorder77]

Man, i just got my transom off. Mine was so dry rotted it wasn't too bad getting it out. I finally got all the wood out and this week coming i will begin grinding down where the stringers were. Any suggestions on wood i should use if you really can afford marine grade wood?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Man, i just got my transom off. Mine was so dry rotted it wasn't too bad getting it out. I finally got all the wood out and this week coming i will begin grinding down where the stringers were. Any suggestions on wood i should use if you really can afford marine grade wood?

Use exterior grade plywood, BCX. Sold at Home Depot. Properly encapsulated it will last forever.

 

[Camcorder77]

Use exterior grade plywood, BCX. Sold at Home Depot. Properly encapsulated it will last forever.

What about for my stringers?

 

[gm280]

What about for my stringers?

That depends on how big the stringer are. Most use exterior grade plywood as well. And if you need them wider then standard plywood width, glue them together like you will do for your transom. JMHO

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Plywood standing on edge is extremely strong and perfect IMO to use as stringers. Dimensional lumber is not near as rigid.