1983 Invader Floor Repair Support Needed - Take 2

[JASinIL2006]

Looks great! Nothing like having solid deck underfoot, eh? Nice work!

 

[Woodonglass]

Before you tab that deck in, make sure and Double check your hull measurements against what they were when you decapitated her so you're sure the cap will fit back on once the deck is installed and all cured.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Thanks for looking out for me, Wood. Never took the cap off, so I should be good.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm DUH... I keep Tellin everyone I AM a OLD DUMB OKIE and here's just one more instance that PROVES IT!!!! I'll go sit in the corner now and leave you alone so you can get your Floor done!!!:facepalm:

 

[PitaBoat22]

Busy life leaves little time to work on the boat, but still making incremental progress. Tried to make video update today, but camera battery needs to be charged. Today I nearly finished up the cleats for the deck. That said, all of the cleats are now installed to support the installation of the back two thirds of the deck, so I will be able to at least get that much done very soon. Those who have been following this may recall that I had decided upon how to attach the hinges for the engine housing to the deck while also minimizing the risk of exposing the deck to water. That plan was as follows:



Well, as it turns out, the holes for hinges fall directly above the cleats that run along the stringers on either side. So, I have decided to do the following. I will drill oversized holes in the deck where the screws will go and then fill those in with resin. I will also drill wide and deep holes into the cleats that will accommodate the screws. Those holes in the cleats will also be filled with resin. I will cake PB all around the holes in the cleats so an impenetrable seal is created between the cleats and the underside of the deck when I install the deck. When I install the hinges for the engine housing, the screws will be embedded entirely in resin so there will be nowhere for water to go if any finds its way into the holes occupied by the screws. Something like this?.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Video update is posted at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNf...GB0AlkTszgdXGg.

 

[Woodonglass]

Fillets look Great! For 2 cups of Resin IMHO you're a bit over doing it on the CMF. They add structural strength to the mix but it doesn't take all that much to do it. I'd say 2 Heaping Tablespoons would be plenty 1 per cup is about right. No Harm putting in more. they for sure will be strong but...the glass tabbings will supply more than enuf strength so it's kind of a waste. Again just my opinion so do what your gut tells you is best for your situation. Your attention to detail and getting the fillets nice and coved and smooth will pay off BIG TIME when it comes time to lay the glass!!!!

 

[PitaBoat22]

Still have some tabbing to do around the edges and have to get a couple of layers of 1708 in place over the entire thing?.but THE DECK IS IN!!

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm 2 layers of 1708 over the deck is WAY overkill IMHO. Really NOT needed!!!! What's your final finish for the deck gunna be??? You're in the backstretch now, headed for the Home turn!!! Nice work!!!

 

[PitaBoat22]

Ok. One layer of CSM and then 1 layer of 1708? Or just one layer of 1708? The final finish will be carpet - just like the original.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Ok Wood - just re-read your post re fabricating decks and see I should do 2-3 layers of CSM and then one layer of 1708. Did I get that right?

 

[Woodonglass]

UHmmm, Not really, A full Layer of 1708 on the deck is not required IMHO. What you're looking for is mainly waterproofing the deck, binding the resin together to keep it from cracking and breaking and Strength in the attachment at the hull sides. CSM will do that. If you look at the illustration in the link the only 1708 is the 6" tabbing from the deck to the hull sides. I truly believe 2 layers of CSM is more than adequate for waterproofing the deck and I'd use wax in it so really ensure this. If you do wet on wet lams, and this should NOT be an issue when doing a deck since you can do big pours and on these big flat surfaces, you will have a really good deck that will stand up well to any conditions. You could make the 1708 tabbing a 8" -10" if you wanted but that's about all you'd need to change.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Ok - thanks. What kind of wax? How would one go about mixing wax into the resin mixture?

Oh wait, never mind. I remember now. It's been so long since I picked up all those supplies!! I have that styrene mixing agent - I think that's the "wax". Right?

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm no styrene is used to thin the resin. It's called surfacing wax normally mixed at @ 2oz per gallon ratio. U S C O M P O S I T E S sells it. $6.85 per pint That should be plenty

 

[PitaBoat22]

The guys at Fiberglass Supply in Burlington, WA gave me a container of what they label as "New Surface Agent" that contains styrene monomer. The description says its "a wax-containing clear liquid formulation designed for use with either gel coats or resins to reduce air sensitivity and inhibition." Here's a pic of the entire description. They recommended I use this as a final top coat of resin so that the carpet adheres more effectively.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup that's the stuff.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Finished getting the pour foam in this morning. Drilled the holes and did half last night and then finished it up this morning. All in all, took me about 2 hours to get it all done for my 16 foot boat. Took just a little less than 1 gallon of both Part A and Part B, so 2 gallons of material altogether. I fit the plugs from the side I did last night back in their holes and will do the same with the half I did this morning a bit later today. Then I will get all of them PB'd in and get ready to lay 2 layers of CMS over the entire deck. Then it will be on to getting the seats in and a few other odds and ends done before I lay the carpet. The end is near!! Definitely going to reach my goal of being done by May.

 

[Woodonglass]

Woo Hoo!!! Git er Dun!!!!

 

[PitaBoat22]

Ok Wood - I am exhausted. Just finished putting down a layer of CSM over the entire deck. A lot of bending, sitting, kneeling, and resin. Swear to me that a second layer of CSM is needed.

 

[PitaBoat22]

And one other question. If you look back to the last pic in this string, you'll see a ski locker. The bottom of that ski locker is plain 1708. Should I paint or gel coat over that surface or just leave it as-is? I have the same question for the same situation in my engine bay. Thanks.