1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

[Daniel1947]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

My 2 cents worth, and maybe not even worth that....The advice you are receiving from WOG and jbcurt is excellant. I think what you are missing here is that when your boat was manufactured, the beginning process was most likely GelCoat was sprayed (applied) to the inside of a large mold. Then layers of fiberglass cloth were applied, I don't know how many layers would have been applied, but this would have become bonded to the gelcoat and formed the basic shell of the boat. After the completion of the shell, it was at this point that the "wood" was attached. (The transom and stringers were then installed, tabbed in, etc.) This is what they are trying to get you to do. Build (repair) the outer shell first and make the hull all one piece before installing the wood. I am not going to have to do what you are doing as there have not been any prior repairs done to my boat. Until I drill some holes in the transom, I am not even sure I will have to replace it. I know the stringers and deck are shot. You have done great so far my friend, keep following sound advice and it will come out great.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

I truly get what you are all saying. Yes, the hull was at one point layed up as a single item. Then while it was in a jig, the structure was added and so on. And yeah, I know that I dont know boats very well but I am very familiar with structure. Without anyone but myself being here to see what I am talking about, it's impossible to try and explain it. But to try and refabricate the flmsiest part first in this particular situation, no matter how I tried to wrap my head around it, just didn't make sense.
I could have very well just tried to use the new transom as a mold but then I would have had to cut the remainder of the bottom peice out of the hull destabilizing it even further. But by begining a repair lay-up that is molded directly to the transom, I could essentialy puzzle peice the fiberglass section of the transom enabling me to drop the transom into place with a fresh lay-up of glass that would fit into what I have left of the hull on the bottom. I could then form the hull back into measurement, secure the hull back to its structure, glass it into place, then finish building up the rest of the thickness of the transom afterwards allowing the surface to remain flush with what is left of the material at the bottom of the hulls transom skin. Now at this point, I still have original material at the bottom of the transom area to fill where needed, and then lay 2 more layers of 1708 directly over the top of completing the layup.
So I tried it my way. I will have just a few thousands thicker transom skin, plus I should have a piece of transom structure that Is laminated directly to the skin free of voids and so far it's within measurement.
Now I just have to tab it in, clean up the edges where the outer sections of the transom meet the new laminations, fill them to a radius that is easily glassable, clean up the underside of the damaged old lower skin and add two more layers of glass.
All in theory of course.

Some pics...

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Some more...

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Forgot this one...

View attachment 220963

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Forgot this one...

View attachment 220963

no pix

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

I truly get what you are all saying. Yes, the hull was at one point layed up as a single item. Then while it was in a jig, the structure was added and so on. And yeah, I know that I dont know boats very well but I am very familiar with structure. Without anyone but myself being here to see what I am talking about, it's impossible to try and explain it. But to try and refabricate the flmsiest part first in this particular situation, no matter how I tried to wrap my head around it, just didn't make sense.
I could have very well just tried to use the new transom as a mold but then I would have had to cut the remainder of the bottom peice out of the hull destabilizing it even further. But by begining a repair lay-up that is molded directly to the transom, I could essentialy puzzle peice the fiberglass section of the transom enabling me to drop the transom into place with a fresh lay-up of glass that would fit into what I have left of the hull on the bottom. I could then form the hull back into measurement, secure the hull back to its structure, glass it into place, then finish building up the rest of the thickness of the transom afterwards allowing the surface to remain flush with what is left of the material at the bottom of the hulls transom skin. Now at this point, I still have original material at the bottom of the transom area to fill where needed, and then lay 2 more layers of 1708 directly over the top of completing the layup.
So I tried it my way. I will have just a few thousands thicker transom skin, plus I should have a piece of transom structure that Is laminated directly to the skin free of voids and so far it's within measurement.
Now I just have to tab it in, clean up the edges where the outer sections of the transom meet the new laminations, fill them to a radius that is easily glassable, clean up the underside of the damaged old lower skin and add two more layers of glass.
All in theory of course.

Some pics...

The sharpie marks on your plywood transom are the layout marks where the existing leftovers of transom skin land against it. You then infilled the area on the interior of that sharpie line w/ a few layers of fiberglass. Recreating the missing portion of the transom skin, correct?

Just to make sure it's clear to those that read this thread, IMO, and probably others that suggested you do this a different way, you have created a weaker transom by replacing what was once a CONTINOUS fiberglass hull on both the interior & exterior sides of the transom, w/ what can only now be single sided. Since the missing fiberglass will be at the corner (the end of the plywood transom, by the way) and an exterior corner is usually easier to fab then an interior corner, you've made your repair more difficult.

Look at how the corner of the transom terminates at the remaining fiberglass skin at either side of the transom.

How are you going to carry that fiberglass across the back of the boat between the plywood transom, and the exterior side of the transom, now that you've glassed the missing skin onto the plywood. That corner looks to be a great place for a stress crack to start.

If you had chosen to follow the graphic GT posted quite a while ago, you'd have tapered both sides of the left over skin and used overlapping layers of tabbing and full size glass layups to infill both the missing skin & the tapered areas. The overlapping areas, along w/ using CSM & 1708 alternately, would have recreated what was originally existing on BOTH sides of the transom skin, when the factory built your boat originally. Followed up by using PB to install the transom, fillets & tabbing the plywood transom onto those side pieces of the hull.

Your knowledge of structure doesn't necessarily translate to boat construction. IMO, you've gotten sound advice, repeatedly, and then chosen to do it in a less substantial manner that isn't sound.

It is your boat, and you are certainly welcome to build it as you see fit, but I'd consider how this method of construction affects the overall structural integrity of your transom & hull.

Good luck w/ your project

boat & boat resto safely

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

I still plan to tab the corners in and add a layer of CSM two more layers of 1708 to the outside of the transom. All I did with the existing layers of CSM and 1708 was fill in the missing peice of glass leaving myself a flush surface to smooth off and re-lay the new outer transom skin upon.
Then I will tab in the inner transom and glass it in with CSM and 1708 as well. The work I have done on the outer transom is not finished. The only difference in the way I did this and you guys told me I should do it was to not put a peice of plasitic on the back side of the board to use as a mold. Instead, I just used fiberglass molded to the transom that would fit the missing peice. I then got all of my measurment into place and then used PB to line the bottom of the transom where I didn't put the 1708, tightened it back against what was left of the bottom of the hull and ran the PB up the sides the transom to hold the outer sections into place once the clamps come off. I only did it this way so that I would have a solid, flush surface to work with and be able to add glass to the existing lay-up and have no voids.
What you are seeing in the pics will be covered in fiberglass covering tabbed in corners. The fiberglass on the transom in those pics serves no structural purpose. It is filler.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Perhaps your way can work. I KNOW the way GT explained it originally, taper both sides of all the cut fiberglass hull edges 6-8" back, and re-fabricate the missing fiberglass skin, as several of us have repeated, WILL work.

I also KNOW that the layers of glass added to the back side of the plywood are filler, and don't add substantative value to the glass layup schedule. As such, they are fairly unneeded.

If you'd laid it up as suggested, those layers would be interwoven & overlapping layers of tabbing and encasing the edges of the old glass at the cut out's edge ENTIRELY. No weak spots. Then when you overlay full width & height glass on the inside of the transom and the exterior of the transom all of your previous layers would be interlaced with & overlapped too. And from the tapered edge of the existing fiberglass across the ENTIRE transom top to bottom & side to side there would be CONTINUOUS glass on the inside & the outside of the fiberglass hull.

AS IT WAS ORIGINALLY

There would be no point where glass stopped at the existing cut out in the fiberglass hull. IT ALL BRIDGES THE GAP between old glass & the new transom skin

Again, my analogy about D/W should have made sense as to why it'd have been better to do it as we've suggested. Why would you tape & mud the patch BEFORE you installed it?

In another simple analogy, what you've created is similar to a cold joint in concrete but with fiberglass. At the point it was carelessly cut & poorly repaired previously.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Then hey. Ya know what. I'll just go and bust it all back apart and start all over again.

 

[hunterhartford]

maryhannaj, its been a blast watching and reading all of the restoration work on the boat. Amazing work. I recently got my hands on an '81 HPV 165 that I've started working on myself. I'm trying to find information on the size of the dang gas tank. Any idea of the size? Trying to figure out the right mixture for my two stroke and need size/capacity of fuel tank.

 

[jc55]

I think that MHj is long gone

 

[RStewart]

Man, I was really looking forward to seeing this completed. Oh well...