1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Thanks WOG. I'm not sure what you mean by band clamps though?
 

bajaunderground

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

MHJ,

Looks like you're moving along nicely...just wanted to drop in and give you an 'atta boy'!

~Brett
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Thanks WOG. I'm not sure what you mean by band clamps though?
Nylon Tie Down straps that would go around the hull to aid in keeping her shape along with the 2x4 braces you have in place now.
 

Daniel1947

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Look at you go....I take a vacation from the forum and come back to catch up and find you have really made some good progress. The inside of the hull looks great from all the grinding/sanding. The problems you encountered with the flexing has been addressed many times over on here. I plan on building a cradle for mine, and really bracing it as much as possible. I haven't finished the truck yet, too darn cold, yes I am a wuss, knees really don't like this cold. I have everything I need to finish it, so won't take long to get the head back on, etc. Then we will get the motor off the boat and get started. You are doing great man....
 

maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey thanks Brett. Thanks for the "atta boy". It's much appreciated. I hope things will really start to shape up. It seems like I'm fighting it pretty hard though. First timers syndrome I guess.

Hey WOG. Thanks again man. I'm pretty sure I'll be doing just exactly that as far as keepin her tied down as much as possible. I will have to get it back into shape at least one more time after pulling the transom back out to wipe it with resin, put the first layers of glass on it and build up the glass structure beneath it. After that, it's going in permanent I hope. But at least I have an idea now what I think needs to be done to get her back to as close as possible.

And daniel1947. Glad you're still with us on this. Thanks too for the comp as well. I've been at it pretty hard as much as I can. I think I've got about 60 hours into just grinding that dang hull. I'm glad the worst of it's over for now. At least I hope it is. I think you will definatly benefit from a crade FOR SURE! I would have been much better off had I built one, but when that darn transom skin busted out of there and it lost a very important part of it's natural structure it was all over for it staying the same. Even if I would have had a cradle for it to sit in, it wouldn't really have stopped the parts of the hull that flexed upward unless the cradle were built all of the way around it. Maybe you could do something like that on yours just in case it wants go ka-boing like mine did.
I hope you get your truck fixed so that you can start up your own resto thread. Let me know when you do.

So I drove down to SLC today and picked up my first load of materials. But when I got there, as an added bonus, when they started to load up the supplies into the back of my truck, I noticed that the 1708 was actually in a 60 inch roll and the 1.5 CSM was too. I had expected that the CSM was going to be but they told me that the 1708 was in a 36 inch roll. I'm not complaining at all! So now I have nearly twice as much 1708 as I though I would have. I don't know if I will even need it all. I could be wrong though. I figure I will be buying more resin anyway so I guess I'll see how much 1708 I have left when I go to get the resin and adjust from there.
The temps have dropped a bit here the last few days and I don't want to store the 5 gallon buckets of polyester in the house but I don't know a good, safe way to warm it up when I need to use it. I hope it will be ok out in the cold garage. I could smell it in my garage even before I opened one of the containers to pour it down into a gallon jug. The funny thing is, now I have the gallon jug in the house to see how long it will take for it to warm up from being in here and I can't smell it at all. So I think I might try just pouring a bunch of it down into jugs and storing it in the stairway room. When I went to pick it up, the shop it was in smelled badly of polyester so I'm wondering if the smell has just permeated into the plastic bucket from being in the shop.
If someone could answer the warm up and the smell question, i would really appreciate it.
It's time to start building!

Here's my stuff so far.

DSC_0138.JPG

As usual, thanks to everyone.
 
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maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Oh, and this too. If things go well, I hope to glass and install the transom tomorrow. Will someone please explain to me exactly how to mix the PB for the fillet material. WOG did explain this to me a bit but I don't remember if to, or not to mix in the 1/4 inch chopped. My thinking is that if the chop adds more strength, shouldn't I mix it in? And if not, please explain. Please also explain the proper tabbing procedure as well. I'm pretty sure I need two layers of tab in, but I don't know how wide the 1708 strips should be and if I'm supposed to use the CSM in the tabbing process as well.

Thanks again to all.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Get some big Aluminum Turkey Roasting pans and fill half full with hot water and set the gallon jugs of resin in them to warm the resin. Make PB by mixing the 1% MEKP first then adding the cabosil till its the consistency you want then add 1/4 cup of fibers per qt of PB. You'll have about 25 mins working time. Tabbing should start with 3" wide strips of CSM then another 5" wide Strip of CSM and then a 8" wide strip of 1708
 

maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Ok WOG. Thanks as usual! Great idea with the turkey pans. So I am guessing that the resin in the 5 gallon buckets that are out in the cold will be ok then?
I know that the cold resin topic has been discussed here but I guess I was just wondering if there was a danger point to it or not. That stuffs not cheap!:laugh:
I was just thinking that if there is a point when the resin will ruin, I better get to figuring out how to keep it warm.
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

I wouldn't let it get to a real hard Freeze. Like down in the Teens for several days. But other than that it should be ok.
 

maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Ok. Thanks WOG. I just a little while ago successfully failed at my first attempt to mix up PB. It was great!
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

1 of 2 probably problems, blind as you've not posted details yet:

Often large volumes of resin in small volume containers KICKS CRAZY fast. Melt the container & smokes fast. Like 12oz of liquid in a 16oz cup. Use small volumes of resin in large volume containers. Think 1gal liquid in a 5gal bucket.

or

Mixed the resin & MEKP together too long, too aggressively (whipped not simply mixed, cordless drills w/ paddle mixers are often too much) and it started kicking while you were too slowly adding cabosil &/or the 1/4" chopped strand.


I give myself a better then 70% shot 1 of those 2 ^^^ problems occurred
 

maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Nope, sorry jbcurt00. But thanks for the tip. I like this game very much. We should just call it the "You bet and loose nothin but I learn somethin" game. Ok really though, finally I get say this to someone else. You're way overthinking it.:) What really happened is that I followed after a youtube tutorial to get a visual on how to do it. First he put his resin in a cup. So did I. Second he added a certain amount of chopped strand. So did I. Third he mixed it around to let the resin soak into the chopped strand and gained a certain consistency out of it, but when I did it it turned into a big glob! I didn't even get to the part where you add hardener or cabosil.
So that's really what happened.
I also got to play the too little hardener in the resin game, and the way too much resin for the CSM game, and the almost not enough resin for the 1708 game. It's been a fun first try stuff out time.
I wanted to be able to get the transom glassed in but no way. It just wasn't going to happen. I did learn that resin isn't so thick as not to just dissapear into wood. That transom took in a lot more resin than I thought it would and I think it still needs more. It still has a rough like sandpapery finish to it in a lot of spots.
I did manage to get 4 layers of CSM and 3 layers of 1708 cut to fit the transom, a few coats of resin on both sides of the transom, the holes through the bottom of the hull in the transom area patched, a layer of CSM and 2 layers of 1708 layed up in the corners of the pod box areas and underneath of where the transom will go. I felt that I needed to build these areas up because I had to remove so much patch work and glass to get a smoother lay-up surface.
So next I will finish wiping the transom with resin, add lay-up single layer of CSM and two layers of 1708 on what would be the outside of the transom board and a layers of CSM on the inside of the transom.
After they're all in place, I will install and line up the transom board into where it needs to go, glue and fillet it around the edges with PB and tab it into place. After it's tabbed in, I will overlay and overlap it with a layer of CSM and 2 more layers of 1708.
After that I hope that the entire transom area will be stong enough to hold. After all of that is finished I will have a point of referance as to where to build my stribers from.

Heres my progress...

DSC_0145.JPGDSC_0143.jpgDSC_0147.jpgDSC_0146.jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Uhmm, I think you need to rethink how you're doing the build. Question. Are you going to be re-using the cut-out portion of the outerskin of the hull? I WOULD!!! If not Why Not? If so there is absolutely NO NEED for the glass laminations on the back side of the wood core. If Not, there is still no reason for them. Total waste of resin and Glass, IMHO. The Main strength of your transom will come from the Inside laminations to the hull. As I have previously stated, the first step should be to get the wood aligned in the hole properly and covered in plastic, then clamp the piece of the outer skin in place, (once the hull and the piece have all been ground and feathered properly an then to the outside tabbings as I described earlier. Once this piece has been tabbed back in the hull basically has been restored and it's now back to one piece. You will remove the wood which for now is just a mold for the Hull rebuild and the plastic will allow it to release from the NEW outer skin. You can now do a typical transom replacement on the inside using PB and Full layers of CSM and 1708 Wrapping around the sides of the wings. Then on the outside finish up with another layer or two of CSM and 1708. DONE!!! You do NOT need to apply all these layers of CSM and 1708 to the transom prior to installation. IMHO it's not time to install the wood. You need to Get the Skin Back on at this time and rebuild the Glass structure. If you don't use the old skin you need to span the cut out area with new glass building it up to the correct thickness. This will take a lot of resin and glass and theres no need for that. That's why I say to use the old piece no matter how many holes it has etc... It can be sanded and filled and made to look like new when you're done and save a lot of time and money.

I'm not sure where our disconnect is:confused:
 
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maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Ok WOG. I really don't think were on thd same page at all. I understand your previuosly stated method for both re-installing the ol skin and for using the wood as a mold.
Here is why we think think the laminations should be placed on the transom first and then installed. I have some better pics now, so maybe you will see why I would rather do it this way.

This is thd outer skin on the inside. It was poorly manufactured. There are many areas on the panel itself where it had only partially adhered to the transom on the last repair. There is also a nearly two inch gap in between the manufactured skin and where it would have been filled inand glassed into the cut off hull. They had cut it off almost in the cornering area of the hull to do the repair

DSC_0150.jpgDSC_0151.jpgDSC_0158.jpgDSC_0158.jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

OK, we're both right!!! You don't need the old skin but you don't need all the lams on the wood either. Using this pic

Outerskin-1.jpg


you need to make the outer skin outlined in red. Just put the wood in with a plastic covering and tape it to the inside of the wings. No glass needed yet, just resin coating. The Hull must be made Whole again WITHOUT the Wood transom in Place. That's what I'm trying to say. It's an important structural feature that has to be done. One full layer of CSM and a full layer of 1708 extending 6" onto those wings on the outside. 1 Hour later you can remove the wood and then follow up with two more full layers or CSM and 1708 to get at least 1/8 to 3/16" thickness to mimic the existing hull as it is now. Put it back like it was before and then go on the inside and do the transom install. Use the wood as a mold to get this done. No old skin needed since there's nothing to attach it to. Sorry, I forgot we previously discussed this. I'm Old and forgetful. Pictures help. Wish I was THERE!!!!!

As always, it's your boat and you can do as you see fit. This is just On Old Dumb Okies Opinion. You now Know and understand how I would do it. I'll BUTT OUT and quit buggin you about this. Good Luck with however you decide to "Git er Dun!!!!"
 
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maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

More.DSC_0160.JPGDSC_0152.JPGDSC_0152.JPGDSC_0156.JPG

So why not put a few layers onto the transom itself before install. One layer of csm should wet out to .044. One layer of 1708 should wet out to .045. The hull thickness in the area that this needs to match is 1/8 inch.
Aftef this is done, I can then grind in the skin on the hull all of the way back on the outer sections, run a fillet down the connecting verticle areas just to give it a decent glassing surface. After the transom and stringers are installed, I can then jack the back end of the hull up, make a step grind as I explained in an earlier post along the bottom of the hull and tab the bottom of the hull to the bottom of the transom. Now the transom will be tied into the outer laminations on the bottom of the hull without creating an unworkable hook.
Then add two more layers of 1708 in to match the rise of the tabbing that is now extending upward from under the hull and also let it lay over beyond the fillet and back.
Doing this will fill the hole and give a flatter outer skin that is just slightly thicker than 1/8 inch.

I know this method is probably not the standard way of repairing a transom. But this is also not a standard repair and I'm really having to improvise the repair to fix a previous bad repair job.
And by just laminating the skin fist and installing it to fit the hole, I'm really just skipping the middle man of temping the transom in to build the same outer skin that is already on the board. And I will be using the same amount of glass.
 

maryhannaj

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey WOG, you caught me in between posts. You said it had to be done that way for vital structural reasons. What do you mean by that. What will chage structurally between the two methods? Both ways the hull will have to be in just the right spot and the transom clamped intl place before anything is glassed in.
Also. We are on the same page there is just one step of the repair done differently.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

I think you are missing what WOG's saying.

Having a couple layers of glass on the plywood, would strengthen the plywood, but in WOG's (mine too) opinion, extra strength on the plywood isn't needed. It is however needed to make the hull envelope complete & structurally similar to how it was before.

So treat the plywood as a form, as suggested. Using the suggested layup schedule posted earlier, layup the exterior transom hull skin. This will make the hull whole again but not real strong. Remove the transom plywood form & layup the interior transom hull skin.

Now the HULL is whole, substantial & strong. Once you install the prepped transom plywood, tab it in place, layup the full coverage glass, and add a final layer or 2 of glass on the exterior, you'll have more then compensated for the previous owner's errors & poor workmanship.


Think of it this way:

You have a hole in the drywall (D/W) at home that is too large to skim w/ just tape & mud. You have the correct thickness D/W on hand, it's 1/2" (in this example the paper face on each side is the resin & CSM you've applied to your transom plywood).

You wouldn't put any mesh tape or D/W mud on the patch piece BEFORE you install it in the wall, correct? You'd make some cleats or whatever to keep the patch from falling INTO the hole, and you'd install the patch piece. Once fastened in place, you'd tape the joints & mud them. When it's dry, you'd skim the entire patch & overlap the previous layer of tape & mud. After it's dry, you'd feather an even larger area of mud coverage to further eliminate the hump created by your repair. Sure the patch might be stronger if you added an extra layer of tape & mud to either the front or the back, but it wouldn't be necessary. And the surrounding area would still only be standard 1/2" D/W.

Essentially, you are doing the same thing w/ plywood, resin, glass & the existing hull. Tying the layers together, laying up multiple layers, making each next layer extend further out on the hull, is how you build the strength needed. NOT just extra layers on the plywood prior to installation. Often more is not better, it's just more.... Seen an At&T commercial lately? :watermelon:
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

The wood, essentially is not part of the boat. The hull is formed at the factory as a single one piece unit. You need to attempt to recreate that one piece unit as best you can. Forget the wood. Make the Hull one unit again. That's what you need to focus on doing. That's my thoughts. The wood needs to glass at this time.
 
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