1976 Volunte 14' Trihull Repair/Rebuild

[Nottaclue]

My father recently died and left me his boat. I know it is probably not worth it, but I plan to rebuild/repair it. I know very little about boat repair and am looking for advice.

The first thing I noticed when I took a closer look at the boat was that there were plywood sheets on the bottom covering the deck. When I removed the plywood, I could tell the deck had to go- it was extremely soft. I have cut off the deck with a grinder and removed the plywood 'mulch' that remained. I removed the rotten benches and a live well that had holes in it. Pretty much all that remains is the shell of the boat. The transom is pretty solid, but it looks like the very bottom is beginning to rot. There are a few small machined holes in the sides and a couple small 'crunched' sections on the bottom. Otherwise, the bottom is solid too. I have tried to read as much as I can about boat repair and came across this forum. I need some help to lay out the next steps of my repair. I was thinking that it would be a good idea to start with the outside of the boat now while I still have access to both the inside and outside of the boat. Here is my overall plan:

1. Brace the boat by putting a couple 2x4's temporarily across the width of the boat and flip it over.
2. Grind out damaged sections.
3. Patch damaged sections. Looking for help/tips on what type of fiberglass to use for holes below water line and what thickeners to use for fairing. Should the holes be patched from outside or inside the boat (or both?)?
4. Sand boat bottom as smooth as possible, then add 2 layers of gel coat to finish outside first.
5. Flip the boat back over.
6. Add a layer of fiberglass to the inside (maybe biaxial 1708?). This would just be to reinforce.
7. Reinstall deck. I was thinking of using 1/2 inch plywood, coat it with resin on all sides, add a layer of chopped strand mat, attach it to the sides with strips of biaxial 1708 and then add a layer of biaxial 1708 to the top. Is this enough or should I add another layer on top?
8. Attach some wood to the sides and then reinstall the benches using fiberglass wrapped wood. I was thinking about using 2x10's wrapped in CSM and then coated with gelcoat. Will this work, are they too heavy?
9. Gelcoat inside of boat. Should I add something for grip?

I am sure I will have more questions as I get into things, but I need some help to come up with a good list of materials needed for this project first. I have checked out some online stores and here is what I came up with. I am looking for any advice/ suggestions you have to offer. Thanks in advance!




Biaxial Mat 1708 24 yds by 50"

CAB O SIL Adhesive Filler 5qt

CHOPPED STRAND MAT, 1.5 oz. 50", 20 YARDS

Gel Coat, White 4 Gallons

Epoxy Resin 4 gallon Kit............ = 3 gallons resin + 1 gallon hardener

Wood Flour 5 Quarts

The total is over 800 bucks (ouch!). Am I ordering way too much/ not enough materials?

 

[Nottaclue]

Picture of boat attached.

 

[Woodonglass]

Welcome to iBoats!

If you're gunna use Epoxy you don't use 1708 biax and you don't use Chopped strand mat. You only need 17oz fabric. In fact I prolly would advise you to use 8.5oz fabric and use 2 layers. It would be stronger. You don't have to use epoxy. The boat is made from polyester resin and you can use poly and get a good strong build. Cost would be a bit less but not a lot.. If you use poly THEN you'd use the 1708 an the CSM. I would flip the boat now and get the bottom repairs done an re-gelcoat it if that's what you want to do. Most just paint. Gelcoating is NOT that easy to do, IMHO. Glass repairs are dependent upon the damage. Some can be done on one side only. Others need to be done from both sides. Post pics of the damage and we can guide you on the repair. This link will help with the "How to"..Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

Here's my rendition of the Starting List for what you?ll need for a typical restoration of a 16?, 4 stringer boat, doing the Stringers, Deck and Transom. You will need to increase/decrease quantities as the size of your boat increases of decreases

• Respirator (Full Face Preferred $100+) Or at the minimum a 1/2 face respirator with Goggles with the vents taped over.
  Latex Gloves (1 - 2 Boxes)
  Leather Gloves 1 Pair
  Full cover Hooded Tyvek suit. Rubber Band or Tape the Wrists and Ankles and put a wet towel around your neck.
  Talcum Powder (coat yourself TOTALLY with talcum powder prior to every grinding Session. This will help keep the Itch Off.)
  
  Equipment
  
  Prybars, Hammers, chisels, Putty Knives
  Flat tipped shovel to remove foam, Old Carpenters Saw (The Old Fox Hole Army Surplus Shovels work well)
  Circular Saw
• Multi Tool
• Sawzall
  Dremel Tool
  Router
  Drill
  Random Orbit Sander (80 grit all the way to 180 grit)
  Rasps, Files
  4 1/2" Grinder with Backup Pad and 24 grit resin coated sanding discs
  If you need to remove foam, a wire cup brush for the grinder will EAT the foam out
  
  
  
  Masking Tape
  
  
  Shop Vac for dust control or Dust Collector if you're fortunate enough to have one. It's good to create a Plastic Tent over the boat to contain the dust. There WILL be a LOT of it....A LOT!!!!
  
  Materials
  
  Wood
  
  3-4 sheets 3/4" Arauco Ext. Grade Plywood ( any good grade of Ext. Grade Plywood will work. ACX. MDO or HDO is also very good but more expensive. Do not recommend BCX. Floor underlayment is good too. Marine Grade is the best but pricey)
  
  You may also need some 1/2" and some 1/4" for seat bases and side panels.
  
  Resin and Fiberglass (This assumes you are using Polyester Resin for your re-build. If you are using Epoxy then you do NOTneed the 1.5 oz CSM and instead of the 1708 you only need 17 oz Biax Cloth.)
  
  15-20 Gallons 435 Polyester Resin
• If you're using Epoxy 10 Gallons
  4 Gals Cabosil
• 5 gallons of Acetone
  1 lbs 1/4" chopped strand fibers
  25 yds 1.5 oz CSM (not needed if using Epoxy)
  15 yds 1708 Biaxial Cloth (only need 17oz fabric or 2 layers of 8.5 oz fabric if using epoxy)
  2 dozen 1 qt plastic mixing buckets
  1/2" x 5" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller
  2 Dozen Stir Sticks
  2 dozen Short nap 6" nylon roller covers and trays
  2 dozen 3" Chip Brushes (cut 1/2 of the bristles off
• Again this is just a Starting list. You'll need more "Stuff" as you go but this for sure will get you started!!!

 

[Mark72233]

nottaclue, you have got a great start on your boat already. When my dad passed away almost 5 years ago I inherited his boat which had sat for 8 years before I let it sit another 4 years before I finally started working on it. In my case the boat was a big part of my dad so bringing it back means a great deal to me. Money, effort or resale means nothing. Keep up the work and when you get it done it will be worth it. Good luck and I will be tagging along.

 

[Nottaclue]

Thanks for the quick replies guys. Mark72/233, you understand exactly what I was trying to say, thanks for the support. Woodonglass, that starting list was exactly what I was looking for! I read somewhere that the epoxy was better for patching the holes than the poly because it was somehow more waterproof and bonded better to the old boat? Can I use poly for everything I need to do? If gelcoating is not the way to go, what kinda paint should I get? I can't get back to the boat until next weekend, but I will take a bunch of pictures of the different damages/holes and post em. One more silly question for you...do I need to put stringers in the boat or are they already there? The picture I posted is all that was there when I cut out the deck...

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Can I use poly for everything I need to do?

Yes sir.

If gelcoating is not the way to go, what kinda paint should I get?

Its up to you. You can use anything from gelcoat to Awlgrip or even Tractor paint ( Look at Woodies siggy for the full run down on that )

Do I need to put stringers in the boat or are they already there?

Looks like a stringerless boat. Its only 14ft and with that V-bottom its probably incorporated.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[Woodonglass]

YD, is spot on about your questions. No stringers in your boat due to its design. Like I said, for me Gelcoating is a PITA and paint is soooo much easier...Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

and less expensive too!!!! Poly, IMHO is easier to work with and as I stated a bit less expensive and Yes, you can use it on the entire boat and it will adhere very well to your boat. Like I said your boat is Made from poly so poly sticks to poly very well. You'll have to grind down to fresh glass and then clean it with acetone before laying the new glass but if you do that it'll stick and be totally waterproof. There's tons of threads here on the forum of similar restorations that'll be great examples for you to follow to give you the knowledge you'll need to "Git er Dun!!" and we'll be here to help all along the way!!! Just keep askin questions and postin pics!!!!

 

[Nottaclue]

Thanks again for all the advice guys, I almost have my shopping list ready, but now I have another question about the paint...the boat could stay in the water a little longer. The longest would be two weeks at a time, maybe once or twice a year. When I put her in, I am planning to keep her tied up for a week or so at a time, but she will only be in the water a couple times a year right now. Does this mean bottom paint would be a better choice?

 

[Woodonglass]

Freshwater??

 

[Nottaclue]

Brackish water

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhhmmm yeah, that would be pushing it for the tractor paint!!! I've never done it so I cant speak from experience but I don't recommend it. Once you get the hull flipped and take some pics maybe we can see what it looks like and it might be that you can salvage the gelcoat on the bottom and paint the top. Let's see what it looks like and go from there. I'd hold off on ordering gelcoat or paint right now until you know what you're dealing with.

 

[Nottaclue]

Ok, I will hold off on the paint. I am going with polyester resin and will use CSM and 1708. I see on your suggested list that I will need about a pound of chopped strand fibers. Do I still need the cabosil too or is that only if I went for the epoxy? Do I need any other thickeners or can the fibers be used for everything? Thanks again!

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, the Cabosil is the Thickener the Chopped fibers are added in some cases where you want added structural support, i.e. attaching the transom to the outer skin, gap between the deck and the hull sides etc... The rest you can use straight cabosil. The mix is usually about 1 part resin and 1.5 parts cabosil to get a mix that'll be like creamy peanut butter. Maybe a bit more cabosil. A lot depends on temps and humidity. Where are you geographically located???

 

[Nottaclue]

It looks like the cabosil only comes in 5 quart containers where I was looking. Is one enough to start out with or will I need a lot more than that? It's very hot and humid in Maryland.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

I would stick with the 5qt. Your not doing any stringers so that should be enough. Its not like you need huge fillets or 1/2" gappers

I would say the mix when putting csm in there is closer to 1:1. Glass will thicken it up quite a bit actually.

 

[Woodonglass]

Hmmm, well I'm not sure what YD is referring to about putting CSM in with the cabosil and Thickening it up???? I guess if you cut some scraps up to make some "Tiger Hair" maybe??? Not sure??? 1:1 in my experience doesn't ever come close to being thick enuf. Anywhoo... I'm pretty sure if you put a transom in and do the deck and any other fillets of any sort you'll use up 5 quarts pretty quick but maybe not. This video is a good reference on how to mix up some thickened resin, what we like to call PB..

It's Cheap stuff so start with 5qts and you can always get more. Who are you planning on ordering your supplies from?

 

[tallcanadian]

What? Another tri hull build and I wasn't invited? Well... Make sure you listen to 'Ole Wood here. He calls himself a dumb ole Okie, but him be pretty wise on this dirty fibreglass stuff. Don't forget to take lots of pics for us as well. We all like pictures. It certainly is a different looking tri hull. Looks like the steering was in the middle of the front deck there.

 

[Nottaclue]

I was looking at the fiberglasssite for materials. Here's what I put in my cart:

Biaxial Mat 1708 24 yds by 50"

CAB O SIL Adhesive Filler 5qt $19.95

CHOPPED STRAND MAT, 1.5 oz. 50", 20 YARDS

10 gal Premium Polyester Resin

Fiberglass chopped strands. 1/4 " 1 Quart 1 lb

Will this get me started?

 

[bonz_d]

Kinda looks like gm280's TomBoy.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, they're a Maryland company so that will save you some shipping costs. I don't think you'll need that much 1708. You'll only be using it on the transom and tabbing the deck I'd only get 8 yds. If you read thru the link I gave you on installing transoms an decks you'll kinda get an idea on what you'll be doing an using. No stringers for you so that won't apply. I know you said you wanted to lay down more glass on the inside of the hull but unless it's really thin and flexible I don't think that's necessary. You can if you wish but with that hull design, I think she'll be plenty strong. I would recommend you consider placing some foam under the deck. The Blue or Pink Slab foam from the Big Box Stores can be cut to fit an is easy to deal with. We can show you how to place it if you decide to go with it. It's and added safety feature and will quiet down the hull a LOT!!!! A 14' boat with a 5 ft beam is what I'm guessing you have...so my guesstimate is 15yds of CSM to do the Deck (1 layer on bottom 2 on top) 4 more for the Transom. 4 yds of 1708 for the transom an 4 for tabbing in the deck. 10 gals should be about right but don't be surprised if you end up buying 5 gals more. It seems to go faster than you think.