1975 StarCraft SS

[dozerII]

Temperature plays a big part in how far you can make a quart of Gluvit go. Anything less than 60-65 degrees and it it doesn't flow very well.

 

[chads]

The more I read the more I get confused. My plan was to seal the hull, the epoxy resin the plywood floors and then coat with a non alipnpaint. Is this over kill? Do I need to use the epoxy resin if in using an epoxy paint. I currently have about three gallons of epoxy aircraft gray on hand. I planned on using it with a rubber additive for non slip on the floors and without the rubber for the sides of the hull. Do I need to epoxy resin the floors in this situation? I will if need be but it almost seems like overkill. Advice?

 

[chads]

Sorry I fat fingered the key board again. I meant to say a nonslip paint on the floors

 

[Watermann]

I would seal the decking before covering it with anything and that includes paint unless of course your painting the deck boards top, bottom and edges If you seal the decking then it's up to you what you want to use, most common are epoxy resin or spar urethane.

 

[chads]

Thanks! Is my order correct? I cut my floors to fit, then spar urethane or epoxy resin, then primer and paint with say rustoleum oil based with non skid additive applied after first coat of paint is down but still wet. Follow up then with a few more coats of paint. Can you paint over a urethane or do you you put the primer paint down first then urethane? Sorry for the questions I just want to make sure I have the right process. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Your on overload I can tell.

Nevermind the rest I just fully understood the question.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Now that I get it here is my answer,

Epoxy, paint, done

If not sealing with epoxy I don't see any value to using the urethane vs. just priming and painting.

Use this as you will.

 

[chads]

Truckdrivingfool, thanks. I always overthink everything I get involved in, almost to the point of obsession. I promise I'm not as dumb as my questions seem. I do feel like I have a mental overload trying to make this all come together. I really want to get the hull sealer in and the floors down. Then I can spend the winter designing and building the interior. I do have a large heated garage to work in so that's one plus.

I have yet to decide between cost a benefits yet. I know I'm using gluvit or coat-it for the hull. I'm going to use the best 3/4" ply I can get locally. One part of me wants to epoxy resin the floor, the other says why. I have 3 gallons of aircraft epoxy enamel sitting here in a light/smoke gray color. My latest though is to paint the floors on all sides and edges with the epoxy paint adding rubberized non slip to the walking surface. I'm fairly sure that I pulled the original floors out of it. I think if they lasted that long with just a vynil covering they should last a good time with epoxy paint on them(at least most of my life). Not sure this is a good thought process though? I definitely will be putting epoxy on the new transom but I'm having trouble justifying the cost to benefit for the floors.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Well if I'm wrong hopefully I will be corrected but,

I believe the benefit for flooring being sealing with epoxy is in impact/abrasion resistance.

As for the all the questions don't feel bad I'm the same I over think and plan like mad until I just do it.

 

[Watermann]

Thanks! Is my order correct? I cut my floors to fit, then spar urethane or epoxy resin, then primer and paint with say rustoleum oil based with non skid additive applied after first coat of paint is down but still wet. Follow up then with a few more coats of paint. Can you paint over a urethane or do you you put the primer paint down first then urethane? Sorry for the questions I just want to make sure I have the right process. Thanks for all the advice.

You'll get the best results with your top coat using primer on any surface or at least I always have. Most only do one or the other, say if your putting in vinyl deck covering then use spar or epoxy resin to seal the ply. If you plan on coating all the deck ply surfaces with good quality oil or epoxy paint then that will seal the wood from water.

 

[chads]

With any luck I will be finishing the interior cleanup and coat-it install this weekend. Going to pick up the plywood for the floors and transom also. I got to thinking... The cushions in the bow area seating was rock hard and in pretty rough shape. I plan to maybe redo the seating supports and layout when the time comes, then coat the whole area with the same floor and rubber granuals I'm using on the deck. I hope to have a removable platform for use when fishing but the better half also wants to retain the seating up there. What have people used as cushions in on the bow seating?

I'd like to do something that I can remove easily. If out fishing it can be removed, if out joy riding it can be put in. Should I try to find somewhere to make them and put snaps on them or are there other ways to skin this cat?

 

[64osby]

My bow cushion has tabs sewn in that snap to the side of the base.

It is also made in two halves with a couple of tabs sewn to both cushions so it folds in half for storage.

 

[chads]

Sorry it's been a while. Funny how life throes things at you when you don't expect it. Anyway I'm back on track with the resto. Hull is cleaned out and coat it applied to all the seems and rivets. New transom cut and fit. Two floor boards also cut. I ended up with an extra gallon of coat it that the seller does not want me to return. Since I have it would using it to coat the edges of the plywood for the floors be worth the effort?

Also I found a guy practically giving away foam billets used for making docks. They are 8'x16"x8". All are new and still in the wrapping. I have access to a large hot knife. Would these work well for underfloor flotation?

 

[chads]

What is the preferred method of attaching the wood floors to the stringer? I've read everything from stainless steel screws to aluminum rivets. The screws seem as though they would be easier to use but also run the risk of loosening up. The rivets seem like they could be problematic installing. If using rivets how do you pick up the existing holes in the stringers for the new floor? If you just drill new rivet holes through the floor and stringer has anyone had issues of the new hole partially hitting the old hole in the stringer? The finish on my floors will be epoxy paint with non skid added so if he screws were to loosen up tightening should not be to big of a deal. Just trying to learn which is the best way to secure the floor down. Ill try to get some pictures up this weekend of the progress. Thanks

 

[classiccat]

Most use aluminum wide-flange rivets with aluminum mandrels...drilling new holes. Partially hitting a previously existing hole is a concern however you have a little more tolerance with rivets than screws due to their expanding / gripping nature.

If the Rib ends &/or stringers have too many holes, you may need to fasten new aluminum under the fastening points. It's easy on the stringers...a little tricky on the rib-ends but it can be done.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Rivets are the preferred method -

There's very little mechanical connection in sheet metal when you use screws. They will loosen then you're constantly tightening until the hole is too wobbed out to tighten anymore.

Rivets grip with more surface area, may loosen but won't come out/stand up to ouch a foot.

For installing look at where the factory holes are and move your new holes out from the center some. If you do have a few that meet with old holes you'll be okay the rivets will still grip just not quite as well as if they didn't.

 

[chads]

Thanks. One last question: Is everyone using countersunk or button head rivets? If countersunk are you countersinking the wood and using a countersunk washer under the rivet head? Hope everyone has a great holiday!

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I added what some one else termed as scabs on my rib ends due to multiple holes. and large flange rivets to hold the floor down.

 

[chads]

Need some advice. I'm putting pedistal type seats in. The two seats at the consoles will be fixed bases. The two behind them I would like to have removesble so deck space can be freed up if needed. I'm having trouble figuring out if I can even do that I want to and hsve a seat that can be occupied above 5mph. I would like all the seats to swivel also. Is it possible to do what I want? Any recommendations on base/post? Thank

 

[Watermann]

One of the ones that comes to mind for me are these seat pedestals. http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/category/swivl-eze/wedge