1975 StarCraft SS

chads

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
119
One other question. I'm using acx plywood for the transom. Should I glue the two pieces using epoxy resin or tire bond or what? If epoxy should I put a couple coats on before joining the two?
 

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
Any of the epoxy that will see the sun will need paint for UV protection.

I'd just tightbond them together then coat the entire thing w/ epoxy.
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,087
Nice boat!! Those Stingers are SCREAMERS!! I had a 16' starcraft with a 75 'Rude on the back and she moved. 36MPH on GPS with a light load. I also had a 55lb 12v trolling motor on the front. It was remote steer and I loved it!! It did the job quite well, but on windy days, it just didnt seem like quite enough motor. Had to run it at 8-10 which ran the battery down pretty quickly. I only got 2 years out of my TM battery because I had over-drained it a few times.

Now I got a 20' all fiberglass boat with a 130HP. With 50 gallons of water in the livewell and 65 gallons of fuel, and three people on board, the 80lb. Minnkota Terrova gets her moving NO PROBLEM. Those 24v trollers will really move ya, and have plenty of battery to spare.

That all being said, I think you'd be silly not to spend the extra dough and get a 24v trolling motor. And you are positive that is an 18'er? Does it have the rear seat pedestals as well as the captain and passenger pedestals?
 

chads

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
119
I have yet to get started with the transom or floors due to prior commitments but with any luck this will be the week. I did scetch up a promitive design. Any opinions would be greatly appriceated. I'm not sure if there will be room to add the two gold down jump seats in the back yet. It's just ideas. I'm also installing a 24v trolling Stystem. I'm guessing the batteries will go in front of the consoles under seats. Does this seem ok? Thanks and I will take lots of pictures.

 

chads

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
119
I switch plans a little. I decid d to pull the floor before the transom so I could take it over to the lake and check for leaks before it got too cold. I was supprised to see how little flotation was under the floor. I'm not sure if it was original but it appeared to be thick, long blocks of styrofoam. I was also supprised at the floor thickness. I did not measure it but it has to be around 1/2" or 5/8". The good news is I only saw a couple spots that had minor water seeping after 45 minutes! How much gluvit do I need to order to cover the hull? Should I replace the floor with the same thickness plywood or go to 3/4"? Since I'm installing pedistal seats I also plan to install 1/4" aluminum backing plates under the floor at all the pedistal mount spots. I plan on cleaning up the hull, applying the gluvit then spraying a light gray epoxy paint on the hull. Then put the epoxy resin coated plywood down. I then plan to replace the transom. I can't express through the keyboard how happy I am that there was very minimal leaking!
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
I switch plans a little. I decid d to pull the floor before the transom so I could take it over to the lake and check for leaks before it got too cold. I was supprised to see how little flotation was under the floor. I'm not sure if it was original but it appeared to be thick, long blocks of styrofoam. I was also supprised at the floor thickness. I did not measure it but it has to be around 1/2" or 5/8". The good news is I only saw a couple spots that had minor water seeping after 45 minutes! How much gluvit do I need to order to cover the hull? Should I replace the floor with the same thickness plywood or go to 3/4"? Since I'm installing pedistal seats I also plan to install 1/4" aluminum backing plates under the floor at all the pedistal mount spots. I plan on cleaning up the hull, applying the gluvit then spraying a light gray epoxy paint on the hull. Then put the epoxy resin coated plywood down. I then plan to replace the transom. I can't express through the keyboard how happy I am that there was very minimal leaking!

Hello Chads, great project you got there....

As for the floor question, this is just my opinion here, but I would consider the flotation foam under the floor as support for the flooring, at least that is what I am doing for my project. My foam happens to be structural, and if you make yours the same way, you could save a few bucks going with 1/2" ACX and keep the boat lighter in the process! As long as the new floatation foam rests on the flooring and meets the bottom of the newly sealed plywood, (and dont forget to provide a way for water to have a way to get back to the bilge area) you will be fine.

As for the Gluvit, I would only coat the seams and rivets, follow the instructions closely, adn many have reported that the 2lbs. package is plenty for a 16/17 footer. I went with the Coat-it product and chose the 2lbs. package for my 16'.

Perhaps others may disagree with my thougts and plans, but this is my approach!

Have a great day.

Frey
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,087
I asked earlier if you were sure this boat is an 18'er. It sure looks like a 16' to me. Plus the engine size is perfect for a 16' tinny. Not sure when they started, but I thought most 18' Starcrafts had the 4 post seating behind the consoles, however the 16'ers did not. I also thought the 18's had a deeper v than the 16'ers.

That all being said, if you do in fact have a 16' boat, you will be disappointed at seeing how poorly this boat will plane out with 4 people behind the consoles. There is a reason Starcraft designed this boat with two seats behind the console, and two seats in front.

If the boat is an 18'er, you will also have issues planing out with 4 people behind the console with that 75hp on the stern. I did exactly what you are doing with my 16' Starcraft. I had a 75hp E-rude on her. When I put my bait tank in the rear of the boat (25 gallons, probably 225lbs. with tank and water) with two people on board the boat felt like CRAP. It was just too much weight back there. Eventually I made room up front for my bait tank, and the boat ran great with the weight up front rather than in the stern.

I'm not giving you a hard time, just trying to save you some effort if at all possible.................

This is where the weight felt best!!


Feel free to gander through my photobucket resto pics.
 

chads

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
119
I can measure it tomorrow to be positive but I'm fairly certain it's 18. The tag on it says it's rated for up to 150 hp, 1830lbs total and 1200 people weight. I expect it to be underpowered but until I can finance more power it will have to do. I'm not looking to set speed records and the 4 seats are just in case. Most of the time there will only be 3 of us in it with one of the 3 being a 70lb kid.
My biggest concern is where to put the batteries for the trolling motor. It's a 24v system and I'm thinking about putting one in front of each console under the bow seats. Hope that puts the CG far enough forward to help out.
 

chads

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
119
Ok, I measured it today and it is definitely and underpowered 18 footer. I started second guessing myself last night. I could not figure out how I could have mistaken the length. So I've not completely lost it yet.
 

chads

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
119
Need help deciding- I have been trying to figure out whether to use gluvit or coat-it on the inside of my hull. There is very little water seepage right now but I figured since its torn apart I might as well apply something now. Both products seem to have good reviews and there are fans of both. What has me torn between the two is the price. Is coat-it meant to be applied to the inside the hull? Any experience with either? Good or bad? Thanks
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Both are for the inside of the hull, mainly the seams. I've used gluvit on 2 boats and the results have been great.
 

64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,799
Both products will work for your needs, I believe the Coat It cost a little less.

I've used the Gluvit, the result was great on my 14'er.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
They are basically the same product made by two different companies with different prices. You can use either one and get great results.:nod:
 

chads

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
119
Thanks, as long as it does not effect anything i like cheaper. How much is enough to do an 18' hull seems and rivets?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
I used the quart size on my Chief coating the seams and the only the rivets in the open area between the ribs with special attention in the keel. I also used a quart on my 16'r but was able to lay down 2 coats of the stuff on the seams. It's some fairly runny epoxy so it can get into the seams real well so go light to avoid it running off where you don;t want it.
 
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