The most complicated upgrade is the exhaust system on the rear of the powerhead. Your block is called a "flatback" and is missing additional machining and exhaust parts. Once you get the porting to match, youll have to let a machinist add the bubble back exhaust parts. This is a pic of a typical...
Looks like the 6 digit numbers may be part numbers. 328001 is a bypass cover. The number that starts with an R could be part of a serial number. Possible that the "R" may stand for rebuild. The block could be a factory/warranty rebuild. Usually those rebuild numbers really don't tell you much...
The STL designation is for the "hi perf" version of the 150. Puts out about 10% more hp than the basic 150. Also, this usually means that the ignition system is the high-output version. Instead of a 10 amp charging system, this 150 version outputs 35 amps. Usually this flywheel has the visible...
The part number referenced above is the valve body with the holes in it. You can see the smaller holes in question between the 4 large holes. Those need to be open. Yu can also imagine that it's not too hard for the small hole to get plugged up with debris/sand, etc over time.
This is a typical marine temp sender: This sender is a taller one and uses the Z bracket. Others are shorter and squat and fit in the drilled factory hole in the head.
Double check the plastic valve body inside the stat housing. Yours was right about when a change came through. The earlier ones had two small pinholes in that body. Newer ones had aa single oval hole... The purpose of the holes is to permit hot water to bleed through to the stats themselves...
.You can squeeze extra hp out of that 110. 1. Install the rubber intake filler blocks from the early 140's. On a V4 they are worth 3-5 hp. See picture. You'll have to scrounge around as they have been NLA for years. 2. Get a set of high compression heads off a 79 140. Better still, get a set of...
This is a typical marine type outboard sender. Not a lot unlike some automotive types. You can get something like this from any large marine distributor. Likely, here on this website. Should you go to a marine dealer, many of them handle parts from huge marine distributors, such as Land N' Sea...
Not sure if an engine of this age would have the serial/model stamped on the core plug on the top of the block. Have a look. The core plug is about the size of a quarter and surely has been painted over. If it has a stamped plug, that info will tell you the age. See pic of a similar plug from a...
The 76 200 Johnson/Evinrude engines were a really unique engine. They had tons of low end grunt but did not breathe well at top end. Also, the very early 1976 production engines had very high compression heads. The were so high in compression that they had warranty problems early on. The...
You should look at the special stamped plug on the top of the engine. Probably painted over, but it is there. About the size of a quarter. Has all the good info for that block. Original serial # and the model #, which will tell the year and hp. See this picture of the plug and check yours out...
The rubber water deflectors are all distorted in this block, as was noted in the two posts above. The deflectors make sure the water circulates around the cyls when these are in their proper location. Also, you may want to clean some of the salt/debris out of the cooling passages. This picture...