An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

[samo_ott]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

My wife gave up giving me the look when on this site over a thousand posts ago!

 

[Theoutdoorsman]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

My wife gave up giving me the look when on this site over a thousand posts ago!

WOW!!! Only 900 more to go for me. Then maybe I'll not get the evil eye anymore!!!...............


All kidding aside, I look forward to hearing more on this outboard. Update when you can............... ALAN

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

LOL, I'm bummed because now I'm back at the bottom of the heap by being a lowly Ensign! I liked bein' a salty old Master Chief better! Now that I'm an officer and a gentleman, I guess I'll have to stop foolin' with women who are half my age and use proper English!

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm ....

NAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!

 

[samo_ott]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Jay, keep posting and you can be an old salty dog again soon!

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Oh boy!

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

That was a totally useless post purely for the purposes of post count padding!

(As was this one!)

 

[JamieScott]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Hey again

So here's a bit of an update.

The OMC service manual that Alan found for me on ebay arrived the other day all the way from your neck of the woods to OZ. It's great to have the exact manual for this engine - you're all correct to advise this.

Jay was indeed correct that the Gasket, plate, "O" ring, seal, spring and washer are in fact located in the top of the exhaust housing - very clear in the manual.

I've managed to get hold of most of the parts that I need to go about trying to put the Seahorse back together. I found a marine shop not far from where I live and to my amazement they had the Exhaust housing gasket, crankshaft lower main bearing seal, "O" ring and gasket in stock. The last ones in each envelope!

They didn't however have the 4 screws that I need to screw the upper gearcase housing to the exhaust housing but they've put them on order for me so I should get hold of them next week.

Here's a couple of questions -

When it says to use OMC molly lube - what exactly is this? Is it just a marine grease? Also it states clearly to make sure that I coat the driveshaft splines with molly lube being carefull not to coat the top surface of the shaft. Are the splines just the teeth (if you like) at the top of the driveshaft that go into the crankshaft? How far up to the top do you therefore go with the molly lube so that it doesn't get onto the top surface?

Also - do you think that I should put together the lower unit and the exhaust housing before I then connect the top of the shift rod and put the powerhead back on at the end. Or should I do the opposite - connect the top of the shift rod - put the powerhead back on and then at the end put the driveshaft/lower unit back onto the exhaust housing.

When you put the lower unit back onto the exhaust housing it says that you should dip the screws in OMC gasket sealing compound - again what is this?

I've been trying to read up about how you adjust the shift rod so that it engages correctly in FWD NEU and REV. It's not that clear?? When you put the shift rod top linkage back into the shift rod lever and screw it in place do you have to make an adjustment here or do you just push it right in and tighten up? Then at the other end of the shift rod when you connect it to the lower shift rod with the shift rod connector do you just screw this in place or again do you need to adjust it somehow so that the gears engage correctly??

My final question (for now) with the removal of the exhaust housing from the powerhead it says the following

b. Remove needle valve knob and needle from carburetor
c. Remove cotter pin, clevis pin, and pull choke leaver clear of carburetor choke arm

I know it will be obvious by sight when I get to it which bits I have to remove in order to seperate the powerhead unit from the lower motor cover but what are these bits they mention?? I can't see them labled in the Carburetor section in the manual.

(I will look back on these simple questions in years to come and laugh at how obvious it all is!!)

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jamie

 

[BF]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Hi.... I've enjoyed your thread... I have a '75 6hp. And yes on mine when you pull the lower unit out, the cup and spring stuff stays up there, only the driveshaft with the cross pin come out. As for your other questions... i may be able help with a couple.

Here's a couple of questions -

When it says to use OMC molly lube - what exactly is this? Is it just a marine grease? Also it states clearly to make sure that I coat the driveshaft splines with molly lube being carefull not to coat the top surface of the shaft. Are the splines just the teeth (if you like) at the top of the driveshaft that go into the crankshaft? How far up to the top do you therefore go with the molly lube so that it doesn't get onto the top surface?
Jamie

Grease is fine... just coat the splines (to the top edge) and don't leave any blobs on there. They always give the warning about the top thing because if you left a big blob on the top, you wouldn't be able to push the driveshaft in all the way (unless you could magically compress the grease).

When you put the lower unit back onto the exhaust housing it says that you should dip the screws in OMC gasket sealing compound - again what is this?
Jamie

I'm not sure, but it will be a substance like permatek (gasket sealer) that probably serves 2 purposes... to keep things from loosening, and to reduce corrosion. Anti-sieze compound is good to use if you're worried about corrosion.

My final question (for now) with the removal of the exhaust housing from the powerhead it says the following

b. Remove needle valve knob and needle from carburetor
c. Remove cotter pin, clevis pin, and pull choke leaver clear of carburetor choke arm

I'm not 100% sure about what sections your trying to remove, but b & c are both the bits that stick out the front of the carburetor and through the lower pan/cowling section. Obviously you can't lift up the power head if you have the low speed needle valve sticking out the front, or the choke knob still attached, so it's just telling you those knobs must be removed (I'm assuming the goal is to free up the powerhead).

I'm not sure about your other Q's... When I dropped my lower unit, I only needed to disconnect the shift linkage at the gap between the lower unit and the mid section. When reconnecting, it just needed to be pushed in far enough, and then the bolt put back in to the connector. No adjustment needed.

Good luck and keep pluggin' away at it. Don't let anybody give you grief about being a garbage picker... it's recycling in it's purest form and very green.

 

[JamieScott]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Thanks for that BF

I'm not 100% sure about what sections your trying to remove, but b & c are both the bits that stick out the front of the carburetor and through the lower pan/cowling section. Obviously you can't lift up the power head if you have the low speed needle valve sticking out the front, or the choke knob still attached, so it's just telling you those knobs must be removed (I'm assuming the goal is to free up the powerhead).

I thought as much with the instructions for b. and c. in the manual - it's just the leavers as you say where the carby attaches to the lower pan/cowling system.

As to why I'm removing the powerhead from the exhaust housing... It's to be able to access the top of the shift rod where it's jumped out of the shift rod linkage. I need to remove the powerhead to get to the screw that holds it in place so not a total dismantle - just getting the unit off for access.

I've thought of one more question for you guys.

When you put a lower unit back onto the exhaust housing do you put any sort of gasket sealing compound around the faces where they join together? I'm guessing not as it doesn't mention this in the OMC manual.

Thanks
Jamie

 

[jbjennings]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

I've enjoyed this thread, too, so I'll put my little easy anwer in the mix.
You don't need anything between the mating surfaces of the lower unit and the mid-section. You can put some gasket sealant if you'd like, but nothing is necessary because there's nothing to leak out. I can't wait to hear you start it! You'll have to post some pics if you can. that was neat about the dealer parts!
Good luck,
JBJ

 

[JamieScott]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Thanks JBJ - I thought as much

I've removed the powerhead (flywheel still attached i.e. complete unit) from the exhaust housing. I've finally got an idea of the problem (if that's all it is - fingers crossed that's the reason why this motor was thrown out!!). Now that I can see the top of the shift rod where it attaches to the shift rod linkage/shift handle I can see that the bit that it screws into has broken off (that's the loose bit that I thought I saw from the bottom of the housing before I took it off). I'm going to have to order a replacement part - in the U.S it would be $18.79 but I will have to see if they have it at the shop down the road and if they do I expect I will pay more over here. Cheap if that's the main thing wrong with her!

The water chambers (is that the correct term?) that are visible were quite full with a chalky substance which I have now scraped out and vacumed out. The gasket that seals the powerhead to the top of the exhaust housing is also quite brittle and some bits have broken off and stuck to the surfaces when I removed it.

What do you folks suggest as the best way to clean these surfaces free of old gasket? Rubbing with some fine grade sand paper? (I haven't done this yet). Let me know if there's a good way to clean these up so I can put in the new gasket eventually and have it seated properly.

Thanks guys
Jamie

 

[Theoutdoorsman]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Jamie....... Just wanted to elaborate on the OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. It's used to seal the threads and prevent corrosion. It's good stuff but use it sparingly. It tends to get rather messy if too much is used. A good even coat will do. I'm not 100 % certain, but your local boat shop should be able to get this for you. It's rather inexpensive. Here's a link to some sealing compound on eBay. I have no experience with this brand, but I'd assume it's just as good. You can google information on the OMC Gasket Sealing Compound and find a lot of information on it. Make sure you do this before using it around waterjackets and what not. As far as removing the old stuck gasket particals, I'd carefully remove them with the edge of a knife blade or scraper if you can get to it easily. Just make sure you don't gouge into the metal. It shouldn't require excess preasure to get the job done neatly. Good Luck!!!.............. ALAN


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Seal...005QQitemZ150136459351QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

 

[PW2]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

As for the thread sealing compound, Locktite or similar works well. It is especially important if it is used in a saltwater environment. I use it liberally on all bolts in an outboard.

There is not much worse than trying to take a salt water motor apart, and having to drill out one or more corroded and broken bolts.

As for removing the old gasket, steel wool or emory cloth work ok. Anything to clean the mating surfaces without damaging them.

 

[Theoutdoorsman]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

As for the thread sealing compound, Locktite or similar works well. It is especially important if it is used in a saltwater environment. I use it liberally on all bolts in an outboard.

There is not much worse than trying to take a salt water motor apart, and having to drill out one or more corroded and broken bolts.

As for removing the old gasket, steel wool or emory cloth work ok. Anything to clean the mating surfaces without damaging them.

Nothing like a seized drive shaft either!!! I fully agree with PW2. Make certain you use the correct lubes where the manual recommends them. You'll be glad you did, if you ever need to take it apart again at a later time. On a further note, some folks suggest not using ANYTHING on bolts that require specific torque specs. But that's a road you'll have to travel on your own...... ;-)

 

[JamieScott]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Thanks PW2 and Alan

I think I'm going to be in the camp of using sealing compounds on all bolts as my main use of the motor with be in salt water and I can imagine that once the rust sets in it would be hard to remove some of the bolts.

Jamie

 

[Theoutdoorsman]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Thanks PW2 and Alan

I think I'm going to be in the camp of using sealing compounds on all bolts as my main use of the motor with be in salt water and I can imagine that once the rust sets in it would be hard to remove some of the bolts.

Jamie

Once you get this beast up and running, and especially if used primarily in salt water conditions, make sure you flush the outboard on the garden hose at home after each use. There is a product you should incorporate when doing this so as to help prevent corrosion within the water jackets. I'm just not familiar with it, as my boating is done soley in fresh water. Maybe PW2, or one of the many folks interested in your thread with more knowledge, can help with which particular brand they'd recommend. Also, is this outboard not equipped with a water flow indicator? I couldn't locate one in the diagrams. I realize your a little hesitant about replacing the head gasket due to corrosion and the broken bolt scenario. One thing you might take note of though, when I rebuilt my 1979 E'rude 140 I found the water passages within the heads to be extremely caked with hard water deposits. There's no way it was getting adequate water flow for cooling. I suspect the same to be true for your freebie. Especially since it's used primarily in salt water. Too, I'd recommend replacing the rubber water deflectors while yours was apart, but I can't tell via looking at the parts diagrams weather it even has them. Maybe it doesn't. If in fact it does, replacing them would be cheap insurance, as if it has them, they are likely rotted. I'd hate to see one break appart and block the flow of water. Hopefully others can offer you some more insight on this though. Best of luck to ya!!............. ALAN

 

[Willyclay]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Just saw your thread today for the first time. I have a 1973 Evinrude 6HP and am always trying to learn from the experts on this forum. I rebuilt one of these motors years ago for a friend who used it as an auxiliary on his sailboat. Great little motors. Good luck with yours.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Jamie,
I wouldn't remove the head until I started it for a few seconds and found that I wasn't getting good water flow or felt the cylinders/head after a few minutes of running and felt hotspots. But wouldn't be overly worried about pulling it. From my experience, head bolts are much stronger and easier to remove than exhaust cover bolts and such. I would be incredibly careful about how much torque I put on 'em, use heat if necessary, and if I had to use even a little more torque than expected, or if it took a lot of torque for more than 2 or 3 turns to remove one, I'd replace the bolt.
How far are you from the "first pull"??
Curious,
JBJ

 

[Theoutdoorsman]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

Jamie,
I wouldn't remove the head until I started it for a few seconds and found that I wasn't getting good water flow or felt the cylinders/head after a few minutes of running and felt hotspots. But wouldn't be overly worried about pulling it. From my experience, head bolts are much stronger and easier to remove than exhaust cover bolts and such. I would be incredibly careful about how much torque I put on 'em, use heat if necessary, and if I had to use even a little more torque than expected, or if it took a lot of torque for more than 2 or 3 turns to remove one, I'd replace the bolt.
How far are you from the "first pull"??
Curious,
JBJ

I fully agree with Jbjennings on this. Good point. Just make a mental note of it though. Hey JB, do you know if his block has the water deflectors present? What about the water flow indicator (aka: pee stream indicator)?

 

[jbjennings]

Re: An outboard from the Garbage - but will it run again?

The '79 model I don't believe has a telltale. It exits out the exhaust port in the midsection. Where I live, it's so mossy and we have so much duckweed in the water I actually like this way better than the telltale 'cause the telltale is always getting stopped up with trash and spooking me. I have to have a section of weedeater line on hand for my '99 30hp to keep it open. I was thinking, though, that if he was planning on using it for saltwater there's a darned good chance the previous owner did too since it was found in his area. That saltwater might give him a little extra incentive to pull the head to check for all kinds of crystallized stuff like you mentioned. BTW, your outboard knowledge is obviously way more advanced than mine because I'm not sure what rubber water deflectors are. Of course, I only work on my own stuff and it's all less that 40hp.
JBJ