Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

45Auto

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Do you want to know why your boat works the way it does?

I?m going to use a 300 HP rated, 350 cubic inch, I/O for an example. The curves would be similar on any other motor, just different numbers. Doesn't matter if it's an I/O or an outboard, the physics are the same!

The motor has no idea what it?s bolted to, it has specific power characteristics based on its RPM. It will make 292 HP at 4800 RPM no matter what is bolted to its rear if it can reach 4800 RPM.

350 (5.7L) dyno chart from GM Marine Engines. Original at:

http://www.gm.com/experience/technology/gmpowertrain/engines/specialized/marine/marine_engines.jsp

It redlines at 5000 RPM. It keeps making power after that, but it?s not designed to spin any faster than 5000 RPM. Expensive pieces may go BOOM if you insist on revving it higher. It makes peak power (292 HP) at 4800 RPM.

Chart #1
350.jpg


Now we take the same engine and run it through an outdrive with a 1.5 reduction. It gives us the following theoretical speeds with 10% prop slip:

Chart #2
prop.jpg


Hopefully nobody here thinks that they can just keep putting bigger (more pitch) props on their boat and go faster! Since this motor redlined at 5000 RPM, could you just put a 27 pitch prop on it and go 77 MPH? If you were willing to overrev it could you really go 92 MPH?

The answer to both the above questions is NO!!! The reason why is that each boat has a certain amount of POWER REQUIRED to go a certain speed. Any excess power the engine can make over that amount is available for acceleration.

Chart #3 shows how the 292 HP motor above would perform in a given boat with a given load. This graph is the table above put onto a graph with the POWER REQUIRED curve for a boat added. Each boat will have a different POWER REQUIRED curve depending on boat type, size, weight, etc. The numbers will be different but the shape of the curve will be about the same. This curve is typical of a 20 - 22 foot, 3000 - 4000 pound runabout. The bump at 20 MPH is where it comes on plane. You can see that it takes a minimum of 75 HP to get this boat to plane.

Chart #3
PowerRequired-350Mercruiser_3.jpg


The big black line is POWER REQUIRED. Look at a speed (say 30 MPH) on the bottom then go straight up to the POWER REQUIRED line. From there look to the left and you will see how much power is required to push this boat at that speed (about 80 HP in this example). You can see that as you go faster the line gets steeper. The faster you go, the quicker the drag goes up. This is why you can?t just hang a big prop on your boat and let it rev. It runs out of power to push the boat.

Now look at the colored lines showing each prop pitch. This shows the amount of power available at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE at the speed on the bottom. Look at the 19 pitch (yellow) line where it crosses 30 MPH. About 230 max HP would be available at 30 MPH. Since you only need 80 HP to push the boat at 30 MPH you just close the throttle and choke the engine down till it?s only making 80 HP. If you want to go faster shove the throttle open and the 150 HP available above the 80 required to go 30 MPH will start pushing you faster.

If you want to determine the maximum speed of this boat/engine combo, look where the lines from each prop pitch cross the POWER REQUIRED line. That point is as fast as the boat can go with that prop. To go faster requires more power than is available.

You can see that max speed in this case would be right at 60 MPH with the 23 pitch prop. The 27 pitch runs out of power at about 58 MPH, and if you want to go over 54 MPH with the 19 pitch you have to over-rev it.

Now let?s look at acceleration. Look at 30 MPH on the Power required curve. See how you would need 80 HP to go 30 MPH? Any of the 3 props can do this. You just close the throttle until the engine is only making 80 HP. So why does a lower pitch prop accelerate faster and pull harder? Look at the 27 pitch (blue) line where it crosses 30 MPH. This shows that with the throttle wide open at 30 MPH this prop has 140 HP available to put into the water. It needs 80 HP just to go 30 MPH. So the difference (140 HP ? 80 HP) of 60 HP is the amount of power available to accelerate the boat. Now look at the 19 pitch prop (yellow line). It can also easily cruise at 30 MPH at part throttle. But when you go to WOT at 30 MPH it has 230 HP available at the prop. Take away the 80 HP required to go 30 MPH and you see that this prop has 150 HP available to accelerate the boat. Which prop do you think will accelerate better, the 27 pitch with 60 HP more than required or the 19 pitch with 150 HP more than required? Hopefully everyone reading this will say the 19! (Most people will probably want to ignore this little blurb: Bottom line - it?s actually the excess torque that accelerates the boat. That?s why big blocks are so much fun! But I?m trying not to get into a torque war here!)

The distance between the POWER REQUIRED curve and the POWER AVAILABLE curve at a certain speed is the amount of excess power available for acceleration. Where the curves (POWER REQUIRED and POWER AVAILABLE) meet there is no more power available for acceleration, so the boat can?t go any faster. (Note - I used these kinds of charts very successfully when racing cars in the late 80?s and early 90?s. The prop pitches are analogous to the gears in a car. You shift gears at the speed where the pitch lines cross to maximize the power available at the rear wheels. If these pitches were gears and the POWER REQUIRED line was farther to the right like it is in a car (air friction is much less than water friction), you would shift from 1st to 2nd at 54, then 2nd to 3rd at 63. Shifting by the tach wouldn?t maximize your acceleration because the gear spacing wasn?t even like it is in this example.)

You can see from this chart that the 19 pitch prop has more excess power available than the others until about 53 MPH. This means that it will accelerate quicker (or pull harder if you?re towing skiers or tubes). You would also be over-revving your motor if you keep letting it wind past 54 MPH. It can do that because it won?t run up against the POWER REQUIRED curve until it?s turning about 5500 RPM. This a classic case of an ?Under pitched? prop. But it might be desirable if you?re pulling a heavy load and don?t intend to do top-end runs.

The 27 pitch prop (blue line) shows an ?Over Pitched? prop case. It has the least power available for acceleration and the engine?s peak power isn?t produced until after it crosses the POWER REQUIRED curve. It?ll never get there because it hits the wall about 58 mph. It has no power available to accelerate any farther. Although if you?re looking for an economical cruise this prop might be a good choice.

The 23 pitch would generally be considered optimal for this engine. This is what you end up with if you adjust your prop pitch to achieve the WOT RPM specified by the manufacturer. You will have max speed from the boat, decent acceleration, and you won?t risk blowing up your motor! It puts the engine?s power peak right on the POWER REQUIRED curve.

FUEL ECONOMY

You can see that if you want to cruise at 30 MPH any of the props could do it. It only requires 80 HP. So you close the throttle until the engine is only making 80 HP. But which one would give you the best gas mileage? The biggest pitch prop would be your friend here. At 30 MPH the engine with the 19 is turning 3000 RPM, the 23 is turning 2500, and the 27 is turning 2000. Look up these RPM on the engine Dyno Chart (Chart #1) to find the max power available at that RPM. With the 19, you need 80 HP out of the 250 available at 3000 RPM. So the throttle is open about 80/250 or 32%. Same 30 MPH for the 27 pitch turning 2000 RPM, it needs 80 HP out of the 150 available to it at 2000 RPM. So the throttle is open 80/150 or 53%. Since the 27 pitch is turning less RPM, it needs more throttle to deliver the same power (80 HP) as the 19 pitch at 30 MPH. The same amount of fuel and air is required to be pumped through the engine to deliver 80 HP to run the boat no matter what speed the engine is turning. Since the 27 pitch engine is turning slower, it must take in bigger bites of fuel and air to pump 80 HP worth through it. The engine must make 80 HP to drive the boat, but it must also produce the power to suck in the air it needs.

Put your fingers together over your mouth and suck in a lungful of air through the cracks. Now take your hand away and suck in another lungful. Much easier without the restriction isn?t it? Just put a couple of fingers in front of your mouth and you can easily tell the difference. You tried to suck in about 30 cubic inches of air to fill your lungs if you?re a normal size person. A 350 cubic inch 4-stroke engine running at 2000 RPM is trying to suck in 5833 cubic inches of air PER SECOND through an opening about the size of your mouth! It takes some serious wasted power to do that. (NOTE: This is a big reason diesels are more economical than gas engines ? they have no throttle plate, the air intake is wide open all the time. Speed on a diesel is controlled only by the amount of fuel squirted into the cylinders by the injectors.)

This is why the bigger pitch prop with the bigger throttle opening will give you better fuel economy. The wider throttle opening required for the 27 pitch to make the 80 HP makes it easier for the engine to suck in the air that it needs. So the engine has to develop less power (therefore use less fuel) ABOVE the 80 HP required to drive the boat to suck in its air. This is also the reason higher gears (overdrives) in your car give you better gas mileage.

See this post #25 in this thread for a little more on throttle opening vs fuel economy:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=224894
 
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QC

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

You're gonna get no argument or "torque war" from me. Great post! :)

I will try and add some explanation of why I fight the torque thing though . . . I usually mention bumping the engine up 100 RPM at a time. If you do that slowly, you are very close to the "Power required" line above. People often refer to this line as "on the torque curve", but that is incorrect. The only time you are using all of the torque available (on the torque curve), is with the throttle all of the way open which gives each piston the biggest shove down that it can at whatever RPM it is operating at. Excess torque (horsepower if you add the RPM in) can be used to accelerate as 45 Auto has so succinctly explained, or it can used for top speed if you properly choose a propeller to get where the lines cross within the recommended WOT range. However, a higher peak torque value at low RPM will not make a boat (or car) any faster, only accelerate quicker. Sooooooo, with all other things being equal, a Big Block rated 310 bhp at the prop may accelerate quicker, but it will ultimately have a slower top speed than a Small Block rated at 320 . . .

Poor Spinner's head . . . :p :p :D
 

oops!

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

great post! thanks for the time and effort!
is there a weight/speed correlation that could be added?
obviously a 1000 lb hull will need less hp than a 3000lb hull to reach x speed,
or once the hull is plaining does it matter?
Further more, do steps in the hull ( ie: the oke mannerfelt stepped hull design) make a difference on the top end at a given rpm by reducing laminar flow drag?
I also saw a thread somewhere (cant find it now ) someone was suggesting to add a little "rock" or "rocker" to the hull! they said it would make a siginifant increace in top end speed. any ideas on what this person was talking about?
Im about to do a major refit on a 19' foot hull. and am stupidly thinking about extending the hull. (the jury is still out on that one!).

thanks for all your hard work and experience!
 

mudmagnet63

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

Nice Job 45 but you know u just opened a can of worms. So many people dont understand theory vs. actual operating peramiters. You know someone is going to post with a similar boat & motor and try to blow this out of the water. Lot's o folk's scratching their a** right now though. Great Post.:cool:
 

SuperNova

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

That was an awesome model and explanation, 45auto, QC! One of the few things I found lacking though was your "Power Required" curve is overly simplified and may work for a car, but is not even close for a boat that is trying to plane off at 10-20 mph. Most boats require a large percentage of available power just to get on plane, after which your curve would be more accurate. If the average person were to install a large pitch prop it wouldn't be a matter of only hitting 52 or whatever mph, it would be a matter of getting the boat out of the hole. You would probably max out at 8 or 10 mph at WOT. But if you were purposefully trying to over simplify just to illustrate the point, then I commend you on a job well done!
--
Stan
 

EricR

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

Superb post!

A lot of people do not understand that you deal with (except in rare instances) a fixed pitch prop in a boat, whereas in an automobile you have a multi speed transmission to get you rolling.

SuperNova- you are correct on the power requirement for a planing hull- it takes a lot to break it up on top, the graph would go up there and then down once on plane.
 

45Auto

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

Supernova and EricR are entirely correct - I was trying to keep things as simple as possible. I'll correct the graph tomorrow to show the planing effect and add a quick explanation about it.
 
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SuperNova

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

Sounds good to me, I look forward to it. You have a way of putting very complex subjects into an easy to understand format, which is a trait of someone who knows their subject very well indeed.
--
Stan
 

SpinnerBait_Nut

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

You all make my head hurt.
All me knows is that I mash the gas and mine goes fast.:D
Great post BTW 45auto.
 

Scaaty

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

You all make my head hurt.
All me knows is that I mash the gas and mine goes fast.:D
Great post BTW 45auto.

Yep, quit thinking when I retired..

FAST"..135 old Merc "Stack"..16 foot 350 pound Flatbotom..hang on.

Everyday, the 20 Bayliner..(MUCH faster if I pulled the junk its collected in the Cuddy)

PITA but the 5000lb cruiser is happiest if it has gas,..(and more gas, and MORE gas..)
 

Texasmark

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

Well this was surely an eye opener for this hard headed boy. I had it all backwards on economy and prop pitch. But the physics of your thread has me convinced. I like your explanation of acceleration motivation which I called torque before QC whacked me across the nose. Har Har.

Great job and looking forward to the outta da hole data.

Also congratulations on getting a nod from QC. That (grin) was an accomplishment in it'self.

Mark
 

dingbat

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

SuperNova- you are correct on the power requirement for a planing hull- it takes a lot to break it up on top, the graph would go up there and then down once on plane.

The graph also doesn't reflect the dynamics of the prop at take off. Your slip and thus HP would ramp up dramatically then fall (effectively shifting gears once the prop "caught")and then ramp up very sharply until you hit planing speed. At that point it would then rise expediently and flatten off when you ran out of horse power.

A pretty good explanation of a very complicated subject matter.
 

QC

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

Yeah and add in some prop vents, oh and how about cupping, oh wait, better have a button for vented hulls, and semi-displacement, and flat bottoms vs. 20 degree deadrise . . . That's why engine manufacturers only supply theoretical prop demand curves (the bottom lines on these charts, Cummins diesel BTW):

103s7f7.jpg

Prop%20curves.JPG
 
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45Auto

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

Can't add any more detail to the original post. It's up against the 10000 character limit!! Good comments by Dingbat and QC. The prop slips dramatically at takeoff to let the engine climb into the required power range.
 

Scaaty

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

I'm going to have to read that post more throughly later today..didn't have time last night, and dentist in an hour.
Some food for thought. I imagine any time ya can keep the motor at max Torque/HP (5252), I guess ya win. My Flatbottom on a punch (Merc stack 135 hubless SS 12/24 cup)..goes to 4000 ventilating and moving, drops down to 3500 on a grab, tops out at 5500. But QC has it covered on the way to many variables...
 

Texasmark

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

I thought about this all day yesterday and re-read it this am. Very nice info 45 and company.

45, if you need to start a new topic, due to your word limit, would you? This time let's talk about what you mentioned, but didn't want to get into a war over: TORQUE.

I'm going to assume that if I superimpose an rpm/torque curve for your engine (in your example) over your hp available vs required hp curve, that I would be riding high with the 19P prop, because of the available hp for acceleration.

So, when you hammer down on it at 30 mph you have a very long moment of inertia twisting on that prop to dig into the water and that torque is what allows the engine to increase rpm's against the resistance of the water and move the engine's operating point up the hp curve.

The 27P moves up the curve slower (sluggish performance) because the available torque is lower the minute you hammer down on it........Yes?

Thanks.
--------------------------------
QC. Just bought a new 65 hp farm tractor with a B3.3 Cummins in it. Bought it because of the engine....very nice. Cummins does build some great engines. Used to have an 800 cu in, 400 hp, big block turbo; never a problem.

Mark
 

QC

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

Yeah Mark, most modern diesels are really pieces of art. I had a rental BMW diesel 5 series and 3 series in Europe recently. Awesome vehicles and you'd never know they were diesels except that they are in some ways more fun to drive. Very good low RPM Acceleration which brings me to "torque".

Your description above is very good. The only comment I would make is that the 27 inch shaft has just as much torque applied to it as the 19. It's larger pitch means it needs more torque to twist it as fast, so since it is the same engine, it can't, so acceleration is slower.

Look at the charts I posted. There is one for torque and HP. Note how torque is going down and horsepower is still climbing. This is why I recommend that you don't get too hung up on torque. It is only part of the equation. It is the raw twisting force on the shaft. But you can have less at a higher RPM point and the boat will still go faster than if you propped it for 1600 RPM where torque peaks. There it only has 75ish bhp, but the max is around 150 bhp. Back to my BMW rentals. If I am cruising along at 25 MPH in 4th gear and 1600 RPM, a little push on the accelerator (careful not to use the word throttle) and the engine can accelerate without downshifting because the available torque exceeds what is required to accelerate the driveshaft against the wheel's "load". If 4th is direct I get exactly that 225 lb/ft. on the drive shaft, but if the rear end ratio is 3:1 I get 225 x 3 = 675 lb/ft. divided between the two rear wheels . . . This assumes no loss through the driveline which is impossible, but might help to get this torque issue rolling (pun intended). Anyway, all of that is great except to keep it rolling I still need the combo of RPM and torque to generate work (horsepower). Orrr if the load against those wheels exceeds the ability of that geared 675 lb/ft. torque to twist it, then you ain't gonna accelerate. Definitely a ramble, but might help some . . . ;)
 

Hashi

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

GREAT POST, 45!

It's threads like these from you experienced professionals that us beginners are very grateful for. So, thank you very, very much guys!

Rich
 

Texasmark

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

QC thanks, but if I were running the different props mentioned at a fixed 30 mph, like on the graph 45 shows, the engine would be running at different rpm's and as a result would be on different parts of the torque curve, right?

Hence the torque would be different and at the higher rpm's associated with the 19, at the low speed of 30, and assuming the torque curve peaks out around 3000, torque is what would provide his rate of acceleration....in short, how fast can I get my rpms up and to me torque is what does it.

I realize that if it were at the same rpm's the shaft torque would be equal on both props.
-----------------
Why all my questions? Because I'm curious.

If you look at a 3 cyl Yammie 2 cycle, 90 hp and mine, a Merc 90 I have a lot more cubes. So If I am looking at engines to push a certain boat, hole shot and acceleration are of interest to me as I am interested in what makes the prop twist fastest against a common load. From the info I have, I'd buy (keep) the Merc just because of cubes.

Since hp is a combo of both, must be that at the 5500 top end rpm both run about the same torque. Merc curve must come up much faster at the lower rpm's than that of the Yammie and that's where you are when you are punching out.

Along these lines, Merc went from a 2 liter to a 2.5 liter engine, both 150 hp 10 or so years ago. I'm assuming the reason was to get the lard arse of a bass boat up and running. They spent a lot of money I'm sure and as a consumer you ask yourself, what does the difference mean to me if I'm trying to decide which I want for my rig. I know in the auto world, cubes count, big blocks have blown small blocks away at the track for years.

Comments?

Thanks,

Mark
 

QC

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Re: Boat Performance Secrets - How Speed, Acceleration and Efficiency Works!

if I were running the different props mentioned at a fixed 30 mph, like on the graph 45 shows, the engine would be running at different rpm's and as a result would be on different parts of the torque curve, right?
Yes, but you should probably call the "curve" a map. Engineers often call the whole mess a fuel or torque "map", and the process of optimising all of the various points as "mapping". There are almost an infinite number of points between no load and full load (WOT), and then imagine all of those points at each RPM. No load @ 2272 RPM (in neutral revving to a fast idle), decel @ 2272 (fuel off), 20 lb/ft @ 2272, 50 lb/ft. @ 2272 etc. etc.

Anyway, the reason this is important is that at your theoretical 30 MPH, because neither would be "on the torque curve"; the throttle would not be wide open. Yes, the 27 would be at lower RPM and a wider throttle, but not wide open or "on the torque curve". If we use 45's numbers the boat requires around 80 bhp to maintain 30 MPH, so since Horsepower = torque x RPM/5252 (constant), then inversely, torque = bhp x 5252/RPM . . . So, if we round 45s #s to make this exercise a little simpler to show the 27" at 30 MPH is running 2000 RPM and the 19" at 30 MPH is running 3000 RPM, the 27 would require 210 lb/ft. torque (80 bhp x 5252/2000 RPM = 210) and the 19" would require 140 lb/.ft. using the same equation. Remember though that the engine is capable of making 250 bhp at 3000 RPM (250 bhp x 5252/3000 = 437 lb/ft.) yet we were only using 140 to maintain the 30 MPH, so the throttle is only 32% open (140/437) . . . In the case of the 27" at 2000 RPM the engine is capable of 150 bhp so we have 393 lb/ft. available and require 210 so the throttle is 53% open, and that brings us back to the whole throttle/efficiency deal.

I realize that if it were at the same rpm's the shaft torque would be equal on both props

Well, noodle on the above and rethink that. The available shaft torque would be the same, but the 27 would require more, leaving less in reserve for acceleration . . . This is restating some things that 45 mentioned of course, but I understand how long this takes to crystallize . . . ;)
 
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