Newbie Lower Unit question

[rangermonroe]

I have a 75 evinrude that I cannot get the lower to come free.

I have taken all of the bolts out, including the pair behind the trim tab. I have also removed the bolt from the shift rod.

I can flex the lower but the front is immobile. I can get it to rotate the slightest ammount... .025" or so.

I have tapped scrwedrivers in on both sides... working back to front. No joy.

I even beat the heck out of it with a rubber mallet.

I have taken the motor mounts loose and considered heating the shaft with a torch.

What am I missing here?

 

[iwombat]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

What exactly are we working with here. A 1975 ??hp, or a 19?? 75hp.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Sorry...

It is a 75 Hp

Model # E14212

Not sure what year it is.

 

[johnson1989]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

My guess is you may still be missing a bolt or two, Double check up in and under trim tab.

Look here for a diagram of your lower unit to see how many bolts need to come down

http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=e

 

[F_R]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

That isn't the model number. Probably the serial number. Doesn't help ID it. By "front" you mean toward the front of the boat? If you are positive you have all the bolts out the only thing holding it would be the rubber exhaust seal, the water tube grommet, and the drive shaft. All should slip apart with minor persuasion. But, ah, the drive shaft! If somebody left the o-ring off the top end of it, it could be rusted into the crankshaft. If that is the case, you could have a very serious problem with no easy solution.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Thank you for your replies.

Yes, By the front, I mean the front of the boat, the side of the motor opposite the propeller.

I apologize to y'all for my ignorance of correct terminology. even though I am a damn good mechanic, this is my first time doing anything on a 'big' boat motor.

I have had a 35hp rude for 6-7 years, but I have only had to clean out the carburators.

I bought tis boat out of some guys yard, he had it sitting up for at least 5 years. I cleaned the carbs out and put her in the water. Runs great!

All of my boating buddies told me that I "must" replace the water pump, or I will seize/overheat my motor.
So here I am.

I did a search here, and I have seen mention of rotating the shift rod, and also that it needs to be in reverse.

Am I missing a trick like that?

Also, Where is the model #? The only thing I could find is the # I posted last night. It was on the center of the bracket that holds the motor on the boat (term?) at the bottom of it.

Thanks again for the help. I truly do appreciate it, I am at my wits end.

 

[F_R]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Even if the shift rod was holding it, it would move down some, since the rod moves up and down to shift the motor.

The model number generally preceeds the serial number with a dash. A typical model number would be something like 75642 or E75ELCRB (I just made that one up) depending on the year range.

 

[JC1933]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Hi ranger.

Take the trim tab off there is a bolt underneath it.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

There are two bolts under the trim tab.

I have those removed, and can see daylight all the way from the back up to the square seal. It is stuck closest to the boat.

Cant get it to budge downward except at the back.

I found another number 7942... does that sound right?

 

[F_R]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

No, did we suggest looking on the powerhead for a nickle-sized Welsh "freeze" plug with numbers stamped on it? Sometimes it is the model and serial, sometimes just the serial.

 

[clemsonfor]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Look on the motor itself on the head there are welch plugs which are about the size of a quarter and are aluminum or a shinny metal the model num. is stamped into that. Sounds like a stuck drive shaft if your sure all the bolts are out. It should not be hard and if the drive shaft was holding it it would come apart several inches and then hang up.

-Nate

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

388747RPH

Dumb newbie Q... power head is the boat engine, right?

I found a freeze plug on the top, rearward of the flywheel, near the T-stat housing.

You guys are on the ball here, I do appreciate your patience.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

I looked up the part number on the head, It is a 1978 year 75 hp, the number on the freeze plug did not work.

 

[iwombat]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Could be that your shift rod is hung up some how. Can you wobble the shift rod around? It should at the very least come apart an inch or so before hanging up if something is frozen in.

Maybe someone put gasket sealer on the joint?

 

[casi77]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

From my experience on a 60hp johnson, there are total 6 bolts needs to be taken out from the lower unit to remove it. 4 very visible. Other two are closer to the prop. one holding the cavitation plate (round thing) and the other is right beside it. so they are side by side, make sure take both out.

And another thing is to take the little bolt for the shift rod under the engine block, (there are 2 of them), need to take the one that is on the starter side (easier to get at it if you remove the starter). better to put the shifter on REVERSE when doing all this.

 

[mudd_mickey]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

I dropped mine last night to check a few things and here's what it took for me. Mine is a Johnson 1993 Oceanrunner, 140.

4 bolts which are very obvious (2 on each side of the gearcase housing).
1 bolt holds on the cavitation plate or trim tab
1 bolt is in front of the cavitation plate or trim tab
1 bolt is half under the cavitation plate or trim tab

Under the powerhead, on the forward part of the motor, your shift linkage will somehow connect to the shift rod which goes from there into the lower unit. This piece is missed by many people. Be sure to disconnect that. I've found that if you have it in reverse first it's easy to get to the bolt and then once you remove the bolt (or cotter pin, depending on your model) I put it in forward to break it free. Then I might persuade it a little with a screwdriver although that's not really necessary. Remove the shift linkage first, then the cavitation plate, then the 2 bolts by the cavitation plate and then the other 4 bolts and it should, with a little bit of tugging but no hammering, drop onto your toes.

Do the best you can to remove it straight so you don't put any stress on the steering linkage, water tube, etc...

You might need a friend help you put it back in since you have to line up the sterring linkage up top at the same time aligning 3 things below.

Good luck!

Mudd

Diagrams here -
http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accessories/Literature/?popup=true

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Thanks again for the replies!

I have covered all of those steps that you all suggested.

Six bolts on the foot and the bolt under the carb.

I can use needle nosed pliers and wobble/shift the rod. I seems as though the shaft is stuck in the socket of the drive shaft.

As I said earlier, I tood one of the rubber motor mounts off and can see the shaft through a hole in the side. It appears that the socket between the two shafts is just below the hole. I took a punch and tapped on it, while prying the foot down and rotating the flywheel (took out the plugs already).

This thing will not budge. It "feels" like there is still a bolt in... right through the bottom of the foot into the shaft. I can get the rear to flex down about 1/2" and the front to barely move... maybe 1/16"... just metal flex IMO.

I got pissed and beat the crap out of it with said rubber mallet, but no luck... and no damage.

I think that the two shafts have rusted together... where to go from here.

Should I heat the shaft through the hole? Pry it down and cut it off with a sawzall? Shoot it until it falls off?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[rangermonroe]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

Thanks again for the replies!

I have covered all of those steps that you all suggested.

Six bolts on the foot and the bolt under the carb.

I can use needle nosed pliers and wobble/shift the rod. I seems as though the shaft is stuck in the socket of the drive shaft.

As I said earlier, I tood one of the rubber motor mounts off and can see the shaft through a hole in the side. It appears that the socket between the two shafts is just below the hole. I took a punch and tapped on it, while prying the foot down and rotating the flywheel (took out the plugs already).

This thing will not budge. It "feels" like there is still a bolt in... right through the bottom of the foot into the shaft. I can get the rear to flex down about 1/2" and the front to barely move... maybe 1/16"... just metal flex IMO.

I got pissed and beat the crap out of it with said rubber mallet, but no luck... and no damage.

I think that the two shafts have rusted together... where to go from here.

Should I heat the shaft through the hole? Pry it down and cut it off with a sawzall? Shoot it until it falls off?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[iwombat]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

I've HEARD of (on this board) achieving success by loosening up the fasteners and running the engine a little. Make sure your LU is supported, or put the fasteners back in enough to hold the LU up should it pop out. Never done it myself, so I'd be waiting to hear some confirmation on that procedure. Barring that, if you can remove the motor (I know) invert it and spray some penetrating oil in there that'd be one way to go.

The thing is, I'd think that shaft should have enough play under the water pump housing to give you at least a little separation even if it is frozen up tight.

 

[johnson1989]

Re: Newbie Lower Unit question

HAHA I can relate on how frustrated you are.

Shooting it with a shotgun would be fun untill it falls off. Kind of unsafe but sounds interesting