IO or OB?

[graphicjunkie]

I've been sifting through a small library (not! this place is VAST!) of threads to see if I can narrow this down. But I'm not seeing anything really black and white....so bear with me here.

My newly acquired boat is turning quickly into a depressing first boating venture.
So I'm sadly, but quickly realizing that I might be chasing a dead horse and call it quits. Tomorrow it's off to the junk yard to see if I can find a 1985 chevy 4.3L. If not, I think the boat will make the trek there. I paid $800 for the boat, and the cheapest new engine/out drive I can find for it is $1800.

So before I move forward and throw in the towel, is there any advantages or disadvantages to owning an out board model instead of an inboard? Economy? Maintenance? Maintenance COST? performance?

Thanks.

 

[Beefer]

Re: IO or OB?

Thanks for posting this question! I've been wondering the same myself.

As for me, I have been running an outboard for the last two years, but I just bought a new (to me) boat today with an I/O. Ask me in two years, and maybe I can then give you and educated answer.

Sorry I'm no help in answering, but I just wanted to say thanks.

 

[trendsetter240]

Re: IO or OB?

Up front cost for the same HP I/O is cheaper than outboard. In the long run, outboards are usually less maintenance and easier to replace.

My experience:

2 stroke outboard = least maintenance. (gear oil, impeller, fuel filter etc)
4 stroke outboard = significantly more maintenance. (Oil changes, filters, belts etc)
I/O = Even more maintenance (bellows, exaust risers, gimbal bearing etc)

Many others will have more experienced advice.

Cheers

 

[graphicjunkie]

Re: IO or OB?

Thanks! That's great intel right there.

What is the difference between an outboard and a force outboard?

 

[trendsetter240]

Re: IO or OB?

What is the difference between an outboard and a force outboard?

Force is a brand name of outboard that is no longer made. So the difference between a Force and say Johnson/Evinrude, Yamaha or Mercury is that the engines and parts are still mass produced and readily available.

 

[graphicjunkie]

Re: IO or OB?

Man, I just can't get a break lol.. I had just found a good deal on a 19.5' Maxum with a 120hp force OB. Puts me right back in the same shoes Im in now. Granted, it says it runs great....but when it DOES break. I'd be screwed all over again.

Thanks.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: IO or OB?

when you buy an old boat, the purchase price is only the down payment. Always budget to repower it.
I say "outboard" for any boat under 25'. I'm a third generation salt water boater and we know maintenance!
For one thing, you don't put your whole boat and the people in it at the mercy of a flimsy rubber flap covering a giant hole in the back.
You have more room in the boat, an important consideration in small boats.
I never understood people who are adverse to OB because they "look funny on the back." To me, a missing motor looks funnier. It's all perspective--but function drives form, not the other way around.
You can repower an OB a lot easier than an IB. Easier to get to, to work on them.
OB's are easier to use in shallow water.

 

[115johnson78]

Re: IO or OB?

I like the I/O. I have had 2 OB. Parts are not cheap. As for that any boat part is not cheap, but if you are mechanically given then ususally the IO you can save some labor. Here is a link to a company that rebuild IO.
I am looking at going back to a IO.



http://www.cmengines.com/se/marine.aspx

 

[DuckHunterJon]

Re: IO or OB?

I really think it comes down to personal preference all the way around. Maintenance may be less on the OB, but more technically challenging. I/O's may be easier to work on technically, but can be a bear to get down in bilge and work around. Looks - in the eye of the beholder.

In the end, both WILL break down eventually, and both WILL make you smile when running right!

All that said, since opinions are free: my new boat (delivery any day now) has a 200 HP Merc Optimax OB hanging off the back. I chose OB mainly because of the style of boat I was looking for (bass boat style fish & ski), not any inherrent traits about the motor.

 

[NelsonQ]

Re: IO or OB?

I really think it comes down to personal preference all the way around. Maintenance may be less on the OB, but more technically challenging. I/O's may be easier to work on technically, but can be a bear to get down in bilge and work around. Looks - in the eye of the beholder.

In the end, both WILL break down eventually, and both WILL make you smile when running right!

All that said, since opinions are free: my new boat (delivery any day now) has a 200 HP Merc Optimax OB hanging off the back. I chose OB mainly because of the style of boat I was looking for (bass boat style fish & ski), not any inherrent traits about the motor.

I agree.... its a personal preference. I still prefer OBs... easier for 'routine' maintenance and winterization (yup, we have to )

OBs will run in more shallow water so if that's a requirement, OB wins hands down.

DuckHunter..... you'll love your 200 Opti..... I just bought one less than 2 months ago. Runs like a champ on my deck boat.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: IO or OB?

If you're talking new boats, I think both an outboard or an I/O will give you similar reliability with the I/O requiring a little more maintenance. However with used boats, an I/O can end up costing you dearly if the previous owner did not keep up on preventative maintenance. Old outboards you can pretty much pull out of a field, slap in a new impeller and go boating.

 

[45Auto]

Re: IO or OB?

You can repower an OB a lot easier than an IB.

Still trying to figure this one out. I see this claim all the time but have yet to see anyone describe what makes it easier. I've done both and could care less whether it's an I/O or OB.

Unless you're talking about a small enough outboard to remove by hand, there's no difference. For anything over 100HP (I/O or OB) it usually takes longer to get the crane or hoist in position than to pull the motor. Re-powering a 400-500 pound OB is no different than re-powering a 600 pound I/O. Both require essentially the exact same items to be disconnected (throttle, shift, main harness, starter, motor mounts) with an additional 5 minutes for the I/O to pull the drive and an additional 5 minutes for the OB to pull the steering cable. Both require less than 2 hours total for a complete replacement. But if the OB you're replacing doesn't use the same mounting bolt pattern on the transom, now you're drilling and sealing new holes in the transon and plugging old ones for the OB.

Cost wise there's no comparison, the OB is MUCH more expensive than the I/O to re-power. A totally rebuilt I/O long block anywhere from 120 - 300HP will cost you about $1500. You'll be out at least 2 or 3 times that amount for any kind of comparable outboard powerhead.

Both types have their strong points. I've owned OB's and I/O's, last outboard I owned was from 2000-2007. Both my current boats are I/O's and I see no reason to go back to an outboard unless I want a smaller boat with less than 100HP. For anything over 100HP, I haven't seen an outboard that can come close to the power and reliability of a properly maintained automotive type engine. The I/O requires an annual drive removal to lube/inspect u-joints and bellows which takes about a half hour. New bellows every 5 years cost $150.

In my experience, this minimal maintenance cost of an I/O is more than offset by the additional cost an OB creates over time by it's very nature. The OB is trying to deliver the same power as the automotive I/O engine from a smaller displacement. This requires more "hot-rodding" (multiple carbs, etc), more expensive components, and more wear on the OB. These factors lead to more engine maintenance (as opposed to drive on an I/O), less longitivity and more expensive replacement for an outboard.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: IO or OB?

I could swap a larger horsepower outboard of the same brand in a half hour using a come-along and a tree. Add another half hour if it's a different brand and I have to swap control boxes. The bolt hole pattern is typically standard and it would be a rare instance for them not to line up.

Cost wise there's no comparison, the OB is MUCH more expensive than the I/O. A totally rebuilt I/O long block anywhere from 120 - 300HP will cost you about $1500. You'll be out at least 2 or 3 times that amount for any kind of comparable outboard powerhead.

Nope. http://www.boatmotors.com/motorpart...anufacturer=5&hp=90&submit=Search&disp2=&cyl=

There's just flat out more crap to break on an I/O. I WILL admit that working on the engine itself is probably easier on an I/O than the often complicated ignition and multiple carbs of an outboard. But compare that to couplers, U-joints, bellows, etc with I/O's I think outboards are much simpler.

 

[Andy'sDelight]

Re: IO or OB?

Do you like coffee or do you like tea? There is no right or wrong, there's only what works for you. Consider where you are going to be using your boat, what you are planning on doing while on your boat, and how mechanically inclined you are to fix things yourself.

 

[45Auto]

Re: IO or OB?

I could swap a larger horsepower outboard of the same brand in a half hour using a come-along and a tree.

No disagreement there, I can do the same thing with an I/O.

Nope. http://www.boatmotors.com/motorparts...ch&disp2=&cyl=

The link you supplied is for a 90HP outboard for $2000. You'll find very few I/O's in the less than 100HP range. Price some OB powerheads in the 150-400HP range where they're competing with the I/O's. For example, a 150HP just like the 90HP you linked to, from the same place, is $3200:

http://www.boatmotors.com/motorpart...anufacturer=5&hp=150&submit=Search&disp2=&cyl=

This is easily more than twice the typical $1500 for a 150-300HP automotive engine. Look up an OB in the typical small block V8 power range (250-300HP) if you really want some sticker shock ....

There's just flat out more crap to break on an I/O.

True statement there. Maintenance makes the difference. The additional parts on an I/O (u-joints, gimbal bearing, etc) are the equivalent of the CV joints and wheel bearings on a front wheel drive car. If you consider a front wheel drive car to be much more difficult to maintain than a rear wheel drive that's your call. I personally don't see much difference.

OB's are very comparable to motorcycles in my experience. Lots of power in a small package, but lots of additional wear and tear, more touchy to keep in tune, less reliable, and expensive to fix/replace due to the technology and engineering required to deliver that power.

You'll find that most of it is personal preference. I started with OB's and found I preferred I/O's. Your mileage may differ!

 

[mtrainTurbo]

Re: IO or OB?

There are two concerns here that most people with advice are failing (as usual with these discussions) to take into account:

1. Location
2. Market and type of boat

In a vacuum, you have gotten pretty good advice on the types and their advantages and disadvantages. I feel I/Os are easier to service on a number of fronts, including familiarity (if you understand a car engine, you will understand an I/O). OBs tend to be preferable if you do extensive boating in salt water, but that's not an absolute. I/Os tend to be more maintenance, especially in salt water, and especially if you leave them in the water. I/Os are cheaper to buy, cheaper to service, and IMO are more versatile than an OB. I completely disagree about shallow water running - given the same hull, the lower unit is in the same place on both.

THe clincher in this arguement will be: HOw are you going to use the boat, and where?

If you are going to be in the salt, and mooring the boat in it, then you have a major decision to make. If you are going to be in fresh water, its a non-issue either way.

The other factor is what type of boat you want, and where you're buying. If you want a 28 foot express cruiser, there's a 99% chance you're ending up with a stern drive. 34 foot cruiser or convertible, you're probably getting V Drives or inboards. If you want a certain boat for a budget, i.e. a bowrider, you are most likely ending up with a stern drive. If you want a center console, there's a good chance you're getting an OB.

Additionally, where you buy makes a difference. If I want a salty center console with dual outboards, I am probably not going to find it here in the Sterndrive Capital of the World (Chicago/Great Lakes). That said, I can buy 20 foot Sea Ray bowriders with 5.0 Merc V8s. ALL. DAY. LONG.

Define what you want and where you want to boat, and then deal with the issues at hand. It sounds like you're boating on a budget, so questions like yours are really immaterial - its going to be whatever you end up with thats in good condition.

 

[sewerrat]

Re: IO or OB?

For me the choice was simple . .I have 2 very experienced, very inexpensive OB mechanics within 10 minutes of my house.
I have no reliable I/O mechanics within 30 minutes of my house.

 

[H20Rat]

Re: IO or OB?

I completely disagree about shallow water running - given the same hull, the lower unit is in the same place on both.

Nope, i disagree with your disagreement!

Given identical hulls and identical horsepower, the OB is going to have far superior shallow water capability no matter what. Two reasons

1) Outboards are lighter. A 200 hp outboard is 4-500 pounds. A similar v6 or small v8 setup is going to be 1000+ pounds. 500 pounds at the very stern of a boat is going to affect draft. This by itself means that if everything else is identical, the outboard still wins for shallow water capability.

2) tilt. Lets see you tilt an I/O up to the point the prop is just at the surface, and then come back and say how long your U joints last. OB's also have a mechanical advantage when tilted because of the higher pivot point, they get more of the lower unit out of the water and increase your shallow water capability.

3) (ok, i said i had 2, but this one needs to go in here also!) Jack plates... They don't work so well on I/O's, but they allow an outboard to go to the absolute minimum water depth. At slow speed you might be able to have the entire lower unit (or at least the prop) above the bottom of the hull.

 

[edwardh1]

Re: IO or OB?

and the bellows can break sinking your boat, or the riser (s) rust out

 

[mtrainTurbo]

Re: IO or OB?

and the bellows can break sinking your boat, or the riser (s) rust out

Forgive us for assuming you would actually maintain the boat properly. The bellows are a scheduled maintenance item, like an oil change on a car. The risers rust out in (see a pattern developing here?) salt water, and especially if you run a boat with raw water cooling.

I have had three boats, two of them older Volvo powered Bayliners, and I have NEVER had a bellows failure. But then again, I replace them periodically.