Ok all connections are clean. It's not the solenoid on the starter it is the back (aft) solenoid on the top of the engine. There are three solenoids on top of the engine. Why would the back one be clicking rapidly and not the one on the starter?
Ok does anyone have a wiring schematic for the 5.7l? I want to start replacing wires as I go due to the amount of corrosion. I want to make this right and look good.
Alright everyone. I cleaned every wire I could find. And it paid off. It fired right up. Now I guess I have another issue lol. The prop won't spin at all forward or reverse. I can hear some clicking going on but no movement of the prop
Alright everyone. I cleaned every wire I could find. And it paid off. It fired right up. Now I guess I have another issue lol. The prop won't spin at all forward or reverse. I can hear some clicking going on but no movement of the prop
Ok update on the boat. Shift cable wasn't even hooked up. Don't judge me I was a helicopter mechanic in the US army. Boats are new to me but my passion is mechanics. I will be getting the special tool off eBay to make certain the cable end is adjusted properly and then will be sending another update on what happens. Again I thank you all for your amazing help. You have made me and my wife very happy first time boat owners.
ok can anyone tell me the weight of my boat. do you think my 2008 ford escape can pull this in and out of water. its a v6 and also all wheel drive. again im talking about my boat. a 1987 bayliner trophy 2160.
3400# dry. Trailer likely weighs another 1000#. Add 50 gallons of fuel and that is another 300#. Other gear another 200# so you are near 5000#
Since your vehicle is rated to tow 3500# I wouldn't be towing it down the road but you might get lucky and be able to pull it out of the water if that is your question.
Throw is on a scale.
My 20.5 footer with 1/2 gas no gear came out to 3600 pounds on trailer but it is a different boat.
With different motor and other changes, who knows what exactly you have.
Bruce, Jerry you guys are right, I was wrong. Looked at my buddies boat (350) and there not batwing. Should know better then to doubt you guys, but I'm sure I'll do it again. :facepalm:
Ok I have another question about an exhaust bellows. can I put an exhaust guard on the exhaust y pipe outlet on the transom exterior? I think this would delete the bellows which is a pain to get on and also the flapper valves in the internal exhaust pipe before the Y. am I just crazy or could this actually work?
Both the flappers and the exhsust bellows are easy to change on an OMC Cobra. The exhaust risers need to be removed to do the flappers which are at the top of the Y pipe. The exhaust bellows needs a snap ring pliers for the end of it secured to the pivot housing. Of you replace the ex bellows why not do the driveshaft bellows at the same time. You're doing the shift cable so you'll have the pivot housing off anyway. Check the gimble bearing for smooth movement while youre at it .
BTW I have those one piece manifolds on my V6 and never had water in the engine. On the third set (salt water use)....
Thanks Lou. I will be doing just that. I also took the boat out today. I have been running it on the hose at the house tunning and what not.. however when I got it in the water today I couldn't get the thing to shift to save my life. I had to unhook lower shift cable and turn boat off just to put in neutral. Restart the boat then select the desired direction. Pain in the a**. What is the problem. Also I the tube the cable runs into. Is it supposed to have water in it. Again new boater kinda learning on the fly.
