1994 Stingray 556zp Restore

[JameO]

Have you made any progress lately??? Also do you know how your going to fiberglass your stringers and floor yet???

 

[Marshmellow80]

Have you made any progress lately??? Also do you know how your going to fiberglass your stringers and floor yet???

JameO, I plan on getting back to it next week. I have a leak in my exhaust manifold on the Armada and working on getting that replaced.

I think Im going to have a little problem with my stringer measurements. They have really flattened out on top which will not give me an accurate reading on measurements( I will post a pic tomorrow of what Im talking about). At any rate I will take measurements. So I think( tell me what you guys think) I may create a jig that will give me the correct deck height and see how far off my stringers are. Then base the measurements for my stringers off that.

Also my windshield door/hatch ( not sure what the proper name is, can't think right now) is overlapping 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, which leads me to believe the hull sides have come in a little bit. Any idea on how to correct that guys? Maybe when I build the jig, I can create it in such a way that it will push the hull sides out, and THEN fiberglass my stringers and floor (maybe add some some stiffeners?)

Now to answer your question about fiberglassing JameO, Once I get the stringers built I will probably tab them in with pb and 1708. Although I have seen some guys in this forum us PL instead of thickened expoxy for filleting. Any thoughts on that guys? Once they are tabbed in I will use CSM on entire floor of the hull maybe with stiffeners added. Then I may add another layer of 1708, not sure yet.

Next week I will be working on getting my gimble housing off then ripping the rest of the deck.

 

[Marshmellow80]

Maybe a jig system like this!

 

[Woodonglass]

This might help with your deck, stringers and transom fabrication...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[DeepBlue2010]

The overlap in the windshield door is because of the compromised stringers/bulkheads. Push the hull back into shape using the jig you are thinking about or any other technique you are comfortable using before you glass the new bulkheads. Before glassing new stringers, make sure to take a straight edge and get a picture of how your hull from the bottom looks like. Provide a good support for the hull so you don't create any hooks into it.

PB or PL depends on how much time you have. PL will stop gassing in about a week while PB will cure in few minutes. Either case, neither of them provide structural support or gluing effect of the stringers to the hull. That is what the glass is for. They are there to fill the gap between the stringers and the hull - which is required to avoid any hard spots - filling this gap will make glassing easier since it eliminates air pockets and provide radius for the transition of the glass instead of sharp corner.

 

[Marshmellow80]

The overlap in the windshield door is because of the compromised stringers/bulkheads. Push the hull back into shape using the jig you are thinking about or any other technique you are comfortable using before you glass the new bulkheads. Before glassing new stringers, make sure to take a straight edge and get a picture of how your hull from the bottom looks like. Provide a good support for the hull so you don't create any hooks into it.

PB or PL depends on how much time you have. PL will stop gassing in about a week while PB will cure in few minutes. Either case, neither of them provide structural support or gluing effect of the stringers to the hull. That is what the glass is for. They are there to fill the gap between the stringers and the hull - which is required to avoid any hard spots - filling this gap will make glassing easier since it eliminates air pockets and provide radius for the transition of the glass instead of sharp corner.

Thanks Deepblue! Could explain a little more about taking a straight edge before glassing in the stringers?

 

[Marshmellow80]

Does anyone have plans for building a cradle?....at some point I would like to get the boat off the trailer. Thanks!

 

[tpenfield]

Does anyone have plans for building a cradle?....at some point I would like to get the boat off the trailer. Thanks!

Speaking for myself, I have no plans on building a cradle . . . Oh, but that's not what you meant

If the trailer can 'cradle' for boat well enough, then it might be fine where it is.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Thanks Deepblue! Could explain a little more about taking a straight edge before glassing in the stringers?

Read this thread http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ilding-and-hull-repair/656608-hooked-jon-boat

 

[Marada92]

I second what was said about stick to the project and don't loose focus. I started a project on a similar style boat over 4 years ago and still haven't finished because work and and life got in the way. Outside of that... good luck on the project. Are you planning to try and do everything without taking the top cap off the boat? Noticed that the front bow area was molded in with the top cap. I have a similar design and it was impossible to do the work without removing the cap. If you haven't found his page or videos yet do a google search for Friscojarrett . He has a very informative video documentation on 3 of his boat restorations! Also the center stringer down the middle of the boat. When you start tearing into everything take a sample of that also... If you go through my thread you will see the pictures that will explain why. Its almost scary how badly some boats were put together back in the early 90's!

 

[Marshmellow80]

Read this thread http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ilding-and-hull-repair/656608-hooked-jon-boat

Thanks DeepBlue! I read the thread and it makes total sense!

 

[Marshmellow80]

Speaking for myself, I have no plans on building a cradle . . . Oh, but that's not what you meant

If the trailer can 'cradle' for boat well enough, then it might be fine where it is.

Lol! Thanks!

 

[archbuilder]

Looks like you have a lot of work to do, but nothing that can't be done. Like Wood said, just stay after it and take lots of pics!

 

[Marshmellow80]

No Title

Well I fell off the grid for a little bit, but back at it. Ive been able to get the deck out, all of the foam out, carpet is out. I was able to get the old rotten side panels off too. I believe the foam is salvageable but we will see. Here are few pics.

 

[Marshmellow80]

No Title

I was able to get my gimble housing assembly off but I found that the steering pin is super rusted.....any ideas on how to get that thing loose?

 

[archbuilder]

Is that the tiller arm? Its hard to get a reference looking at that pic.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

I was able to get my gimble housing assembly off but I found that the steering pin is super rusted.....any ideas on how to get that thing loose?

I take it this is the transom assembly after you took it off the boat. The swivel pin (steering pin) is in a very bad shape. Soak this sucker with PB Blaster (forget WD40 for now, it will not work) Let it soak over night. Take an open box wrench and try to break it loose. Be patient and don't play Hercules with it.

If this doesn't work, wash off the PB (it is flammable) with water and use a high temp torch to heat the nut until red; it will never actually get red because the swivel pin will take a lot of heat out of it but you get the idea, heat it up.

let it cool just a little and try to break it loose again. It will give in sooner or later. it will just test your patience limits first. make sure you are not stressing the lower lips that carry the lower steering pin. If you break these, you need a new transom assembly.

By the way, breaking this nut loose is not the main problem, this nut is not even tight on the swivel pin nor it meant to keep it tight or be torqued. It is just a height adjuster, that is all. If the swivel pin refuses to budge, it is not the nut, the corrosion just simply welded it in place. Here is how you force it out

If you look under the pin, you will find a threaded hole (either 3/8 or 7/16 coarse threads). Find out what threads you have (try different bolts) retap the threads to clean them up.

Get a piece is 2*4 and drill a hole in the middle of the 2 side. Insert a bolt with a flange from the bottom of the drilled hole and thread it in the bottom of the swivel pin. That was what I used in hurry, I am sure you can come up with better design if you have the time to do so.

With every few turns of the nut, hammer gently on both ends of the 2* to pull the swivel down the amount you freed by loosening the nut and so on. Be careful and don't lose control of the hammer so you don't break the lower pin lips.

Good luck