Re: Yet Another 16' Starcraft_Stoney Creek
Hi Bob. The old website is fine. It's the hosting company sharing the same IP address with another web site that is doing wrong.
Here is some of the old site onto this thread.
Good to hear from you BTW!!
Bill
----------------------------------------------------- OLD THREAD ---------------------------------------------
September 2009 Started.
Good day.
The engine runs! She had a diagnostic done and came back good. He hooked up the battery and fuel line, an started it on the first try in about two seconds.
Compression: 1 121
2 123
3 125
4 130
Today sucked at work, but the hunt for a lower end paid off. Google is great! I found one. The guy who has it is interested in my cracked lower end for the gear parts so he can fill another, not cracked, housing he has and rebuild a second one. A bit of a trade is going to happen. Sweet!
This weekend I will be removing all of the old floor, swamped Styrofoam and then doing a leak test. I'll post some pictures as I go.
The marine mechanic I took it to said the engine was solid. The top end is in real great shape. I'll need to replace some wires that are cracked which I knew about and all the fuel lines that are swelling. Winter is coming so now I have something to do.
For now
Bill
-----
I drilled out the rivets on the decking and removed the floor. One item to note. To preserve the vertical "stud" if I may call it that, that the side walls rivet and screw to, I had to notch about a 1.1/2 " section of plywood to allow it to swing out past the stud. Then I realized that was not how it should be done. To get it out, you slide it aft. Dohhh! No big deal. I remember that for when I install the new one. It will slide into place.
So then it was onto the seat base today. I have the new base done. I am going to wrap it in chocolate carpet. That will go great with the new floor I am planning. No details on that yet.
Here is the windshield crack. I don't think it is possible, but I will call a few glass shops to see if they can do anything. Can Lexan be heated and shaped? Google time.
----
I took the engine over to the place where the lower end is today.
So no boat at home. I think I am going through withdrawals!
So, I had look at the tin-stock thread. It's only 10 hours on I-99 S -828 km.
I am considering it, but will I be done?
I also saw many boat projects. This is a great site!!
----
As for my Merc, The $750 Canadian includes the new rebuilt lower end, a new prop 13 3/4 -15 and all labor charges to install it and test it. I can't find and engine for less so I am going to do it cause me and a wrench or socket set are dangerous to engines.
The Dek-Master looks real nice. If you find a place that sells it in the USA, check it out. I really like the texture of it and the tone I am getting goes well with my canvas.
Speaking of canvas, how do you clean the mold and mildew off of it? Is there a product that does it? Also, is there anyplace where I can get aluminum tubing for my top. The snow last year bent one side and I'd like to have it replaced for Tin stock 2010.
----
Ok experts, how much Gluvit will I need to do the seams?
I am going to get it today and brush it on.
---Bill
Reply: Yet Another 16' Starcraft :0)
Bill a 2 pound/ 1 quart kit will be plenty for your boat at least thats what was recommended for my 16'er.
Rick (Rickairmedic)
----
Yup Andy, the paint was real good on it and that is exactly what I did. She has her first coat on it and I am letting it dry 72hrs before I hit it again. The roller-brush technique produced great results. I had to watch it like a hawk for runs and really put a thin coat on first. then there we these small bugs that like paint. agggg! This morning after a quick inspection, no bugs and no runs! Usually I rush through paint jobs but this time I took 9 hours total. The base color is like french vanilla ice cream. Over all I am real happy with it! That's what matters.
Bill
----
Hi guys
Here is the link for the decals and other hard to find things.
http://www.nymarine.ca/index.html
Mine for my engine and control box are en route.
The seats vinyl dye is coming as well.
http://www.dyeandpaint.com/
(Editor note: Dont’ bother. It did not work so I bought two new seats!)
That it for now. Weekend is here so I hope to get more done. It looks like it could rain Saturday.... I hope not.
----
Rain, rain and more rain for the last 2 weekends and it is getting darker earlier in the evening where I live. This sucks large!
I was able to get the deck sealed with ZavLar during a dry time. It is from liquidrubber.com. I am doing the decking with NuLar, another product from Luquidrubber and man is it great! It's made with polymers and walnut shells ground up, as the aggregate in it. Photos soon.
Got to get some aluminum rivets. Where?
The vinyl dye is ordered as is the decal set for the motor. Com'on FedEx, deliver already!
The hull is painted and the rub rail rubber is back on the hull. Note, don't install the walls until the hardware for the rub rail is secure or you'll be taking it off again as I had to. Grrrrr! Sorry no photos, as the rain was only off for a brief window of opportunity. I'll take some soon.
As for my change of heart on the deck, I got the ZavLar (sealer) and NuLar (anti-slip textured top coat) for FREE! It covers real well with a roller and stipples nice on the deck. It dries in twenty minutes and cures in 48Hrs. So cash was the bottom line on this one. I spent the additional money on vinyl die for the seats and side wall and sliding door vinyl.
I find I am second guessing some of the decisions I make. It is better to sleep on some of them.
Ok so where do I get the correct size(s) of rivet(s) for the decking and who is a supplier? Anyone please.
Comon Sunshine!
----
Been awhile. Thanks Rick, but I found some around the corner from my employment.
The rain is still a threat and is holding me up on the decking application. Good news is the vinyl die arrived today 12 days after I purchased it. No, it didn't come from L.A., but rather Toronto, just down the lake a bit.
It looks as if I may get something done. I've booked off Thursday and Friday this week and Monday next week is Canadian Thanksgiving. So 5 days to 'tinker' with the tin. Rain permitting.
Still waiting for the engine decals to arrive.
----
Found some good seats at Cabala's.
These will work well with my glare shield vinyl that I bought in October. I worked on the glare and it turned out well. Marine grade vinyl and a nice blend with the gray.
Left over vinyl for the dash. (still to be done)
The relief for the gunwale and it overhangs the dash. I dry fit it before I stored the boat. It fits well. I used a 1 x 1/4" strip of strapping. Did anyone know stainless steel staples cost a friggin fortune!!?
----
Reply: Yet Another 16' Starcraft :0)
Stoney your project is turning out very well, thanks for showing me what my OB should look like
Did you have a sign company make those Merc decals? Where did you get the templates for those? Mine are the same except mine is an 80hp and the decal on the lower area is a bit different. Glad she's running strong for ya.
Looking forward to seeing you get her all finished up, nice work
Huron Angler
----
Been awhile.
I managed to survive the winter storage with a family of raccoons living in the boat. Dang! There seems to be no damage, thank god.
I did get the dash and switches in. They are looking good. All I need to do now is secure the seats in-place after finishing the bases of them. I had a flat on the trailer and decided to get two new wheels/tires. They are a bit bigger now.
I have still to secure the storage area sliding doors to the nular/zavlar deck, which btw, seasoned the winter very well! No damage what-so-ever to it.
My canvas was stored in my shed and a rogue mouse decided it was a tasty snack so now I am rethinking a new one or replace it with a bimini top like the liquid limo. I really like that option.
----
BOAT= Bring Over Another Thousand!
Money money money!
----
The feel of the Zavlar on bare feet is rough. If swimming and skiing is going to happen, then don't use it. It is like walking on 50 grit sand paper. You dont slip at all even when it is wet. 100% sticking power there. I plan on tossing an area rug in the stern area where the kids will jump in and out of her to swim/tube etc. Most of the time I use it will be for fishing, so no biggy there for me.
Over the winter it has developed "joint cracking" between the sheets of plywood decking. I am thinking of putting a sealer over it all and that will lessen the roughness of it and eliminate the joint cracks.
(Editors Note: ZAVLAR failed two years. It began to peel off the black under coating)
----
Hi guys
Well I did a start of the engine today. I have discovered that it will not shift into reverse. No big deal, my brother-in-law is a marine mechanic and can adjust the setting on the control cables. I think that is all it is. They look a bit worn out so I may have to replace them as well.
Here is a video of the engine start. I say 50:1 but is is 40:1 so hence the smoker.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEFQMfBuqEU
----
Hi guys
Summer is great! Less rain than last year and a fantastic time on the water.
I finally got "Dis-L-Do" into the lake! That is the name of the boat. It was an uneventful first ride down the Muskoka River in Bracebridge Ontario. I noticed that I had some water intake happening and when I did the on-land test before she went in, I did not have any leaks. I am assuming that it is the hole purposely drilled into the keel and chines to flush the bottom of the hull as you drive?? Anyone??
So that was the first run, now the second was a tubing event with my son. We were fishing and tubing and then all of a sudden no power for the starter. Not even a "click click" when I turned the key. So a good old by, Tom, towed me into the dock and low and behold and mechanic was there. Blessing are on my side. He offered to have a quick look and determined it was the solenoid because we were able to jump the poles and get a good start. So, as we all know, if it says MARINE on the box you are paying up to 5 times the cost of regular parts. Not this time for me. A simple 3 post, 12V, FORD solenoid from 1968 works fantastic and only cost me $23.00! She grounds to the starter so I installed it in 15 minutes and was off fishing again.
Lesson learned.
I am going to take the camera this coming weekend and get some video as promised for you all. I am very happy with the "Dis-L-Do"!
Cheers,
Bill
----
Reply: Yet Another 16' Starcraft :0)
Stoney,
I think those holes are to let water out of those keels and chines since they are just riveted on. I also sort of thought they were supposed to fill with water when you're setting still maybe to stabilize things. They are not supposed to be channeling water into the boat.
Tard
North Beach
----
I had Dis_L_Do out this evening for a run down the Grand River in Dunnville Ontario. As promised, here is a video of her.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJ39Jp2vWMs
----
I wonder if I can get more out of her. The prop is 15 pitch.
Here are the other videos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sauVybE8Sd8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1SAWQJnFVw4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggKCCYEIsfk
He wasn't sick, lol... just needed to do a poop which he did once we docked.
---Bill
----
To me the engine sounds like it has some head room on the rpm's but without a tach I have no idea. For every 2" of prop pitch, the rpm's will change by approx. 200-400 rpm's depending on manufacturer. If I drop in pitch, the rpm's will increase, and if I go up in pitch, rpm's will decrease. So if I want to raise the rpm's I should choose a lower pitch prop. So in essence, going down to a 13" pitch should raise my rpm's by 200-400. That would help me gain more speed. But again, I have no tach so I don't know if I would be in/over the red line. Also, it is 1968 vintage 4 cyl beast and the compression is real good right now in it. So... do I want to risk it?
Thoughts anyone?
----
Reply: Yet Another 16' Starcraft :0)
Get a tach, prop it for prop WOT range.
(this hypocritical advice from someone with no tach yet )
ezmobee
----
Editors Note: The above is from the original thread.
Regards
Bill ~ June 10, 2012
