Yahama F115 4 STroke

[Eagle180]

I've read several posts about the 'oil level' rise in these outboards and was wondering if anyone has been able to correct the problem... if it is a problem.

My motor has 38 hours on it and the engine was serviced at 20 (break in) with oil change, etc.. I've been watching the oil level and it has risen above the 'full' mark on the dipstick, it smells of gasoline, looks diluted and is darker that I think it should be with only 17 hours since oil change. I talked with an outboard mechanic at boat dealer about the problem before I started keeping a close eye on the problem and he spoke about all of the issues: blow-by, condensation and fuel pump diaphragm leaks. He did say that if the oil on the dipstick smelled of gas then there is a problem and that I should have it looked at.

Is anyone going through this issue with their outboard? If so, what was the outcome?

Thanks..

 

[hobohro]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

I too had this problem . In my case the injectors needed to be cleaned.

 

[Casco Bay Outrage]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

Was the "break-in" procedure followed (in the owners manual)?

Reads like the rings have not seated properly and the engine is "making oil"

What is the WOT RPM for the boat when lightly loaded?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

that engine must be able to turn at least 5600 to 6000 RPM with any load its carrying.
it also doesnt like long term below 3500 RPM without at least 30 minutes above 4500 RPM.
stuck thermostat can also make it run cold and make oil.
biggest problem we see though is improper filling and checking.

 

[marcortez]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

that engine must be able to turn at least 5600 to 6000 RPM with any load its carrying.
it also doesnt like long term below 3500 RPM without at least 30 minutes above 4500 RPM.
stuck thermostat can also make it run cold and make oil.
biggest problem we see though is improper filling and checking.

What is the proper method for filling with oil and then checking it?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

proper oil level is about half way up the hash marked area.
DO NOT fill to the top level of the hash marks.
proper method of checking, trim motor up about 20 degrees,top of the trim will work.
let sit for about 5 minutes.
trim down until the engine is level not tucked.
pull dipstick,wipe,reinsert, pull it again and read the level.

 

[Eagle180]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

All good information and I will try and answer your questions.

The motor is attached to a G3 Eagle 180 and I purchased the boat from an individual who never really used the boat and the engine was still in the break-in period, had 6 hours on the engine. I finished the break-in procedure based on the owners manual specifications. I had the oil changed at the dealer at the 21 hour check-in and they said everything is fine.

The boat at WOT will be right at 5800-5900 RPM and since I've been reading about the 'making oil', I run the boat above 5000 RPM for 15+ minutes every time I take her out.
I check the oil when it has been cooled down for several days and I actually place a level on it to make sure the engine is leveled out.. I have the boat stored in my garage so this is easy do. I pull dipstick out, clean and insert and low and behold it is rising on the dipstick. I had my neighbor come over, boat owner for over 30+ years, very good mechanic and had him look at the oil, smell the oil. He agreed with me that oil looks diluted, smells of gasoline and is darker than it should be with very low hours on this oil change.

I do not know how far the oil level was located on the dipstick after the dealer oil change.

I'm going to call dealer in the morning to see if they can get to it and have it out of the shop before weeks end, planning a trip to lake this weekend. If not, my neighbor suggested I drain the oil, change filter and put fresh oil back to mid-level on the dipstick and then start watching it after each trip. If I do this, I plan on saving a cup or two of the oil in a jar for dealer to look at.

Also, when I run the boat from spot to spot while on the water, I usually run around 3700-4000 RPMs.

Thanks for all input...

 

[marcortez]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

proper oil level is about half way up the hash marked area.
DO NOT fill to the top level of the hash marks.
proper method of checking, trim motor up about 20 degrees,top of the trim will work.
let sit for about 5 minutes.
trim down until the engine is level not tucked.
pull dipstick,wipe,reinsert, pull it again and read the level.

F75 Yamaha user's manual says:
Oil capacity 4.55 quarts (excluding oil filter)
Is it safe to start out with 4 quarts and then check the level?
The filter is small and can't hold much more than a few ounces.

This motor is brand new...never seen any oil in the crankcase yet.

Is there a proper way, or commonly agreed on method, to start up a brand new motor? I have a clue but am looking for a consensus of opinions.

I have been told that the installed flush attachment is NO good for running the engine and to use a muff.
Yet others voice "it's ok to use the flush attachment for running the engine.
Yet another told me "hook water to the attachment hose and get water filling up the internal passages, then hook the muffs and start as normal"

If it is a fact, that water does not see the impeller, the flush attachment is NO good for running the motor.

Gawd....I guess I hijacked this thread....oops

 

[Eagle180]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

I've seen many posts regarding the 'flushing' port on these engines and every one that I've read say to use this for flushing only and never run the engine.. only use muffs to run engine. This boat I have is my 4th boat, all outboards, and I've always hooked the muffs up to the engine and run the water on high for a few minutes before cranking engine over and running.

Also, the outboard mechanic I talked with last week says that in his 'opinion' the break-in periods for these 4 strokes is too stringent. His opinion is that you should follow the owner's manual procedure for the first 2 hours and then start running the engine they way you plan on using it. He says he talks to Yahama techs all the time and these 4 strokes are 'babied' way too much by owners and that these engines are designed and built to take it to the abuse. He also told me that I should run my engine at 570 RPMs for 15+ minutes each time I take it out and she should start purring like a kitten since they are built to do this. Of course... this is his "opinion".

My service manual specifies oil capacity at 4.55 US Qt.without filter and 4.76 with filter.

Be sure and check you manual for oil capacity as mine is listed as follows: Liters, (US qt., Imp qt)

Engine oil capacity(with oil filter) L (US qt,lmp qt) 4.5 (4.76, 3.96)
(without oil filter) L (US qt,lmp qt) 4.3 (4.55, 3.78)

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

start with 4 qts.
you will find it may take another 1'3 to 1'2 qt to get the level to the mid stick range.
make sure the fuel system is primed BEFORE turning on the key. that fuel pump in the vapor seperator DOES NOT like dry runs.
Ill hold my comments on flushing but the muffs work well. I usually bungee cord my muffs on to prevent them from slipping off.
once the oil is in the crankcase and the fuel system is primed turn the key on,wait 5 seconds and turn the key off for 10 seconds or so. repeat 5 times.
on the 6th cycle crank the engine.
this aids in purging the air from the fuel rail.

 

[marcortez]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

Following up on that.......the Yamaha 703 control has a "push to choke" feature.
It's my understanding that a fuel injected system does not need to be "choked" to cold start.

Comments?

 

[99yam40]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

If the motor does not have a choke then it would be real hard to choke it with the key switch.

I believe you are correct you have high jacked this thread.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

with EFI its simply turn the key and either it starts or its broke.
its that simple.

 

[marcortez]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

If the motor does not have a choke then it would be real hard to choke it with the key switch.

I believe you are correct you have high jacked this thread.

Indeed I have..or did..please accept my most humble apologies.

Thanks RodBolt

 

[Eagle180]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke --UPDATE

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke --UPDATE

Update on 'making oil' issue. Took boat to dealer and they tested fuel injectors, blow-by issues, high pressure fuel pump, mechanical (low pressure) fuel pump, compression on all 4 cylinders, etc., etc., and found no problems. So, they changed the oil and oil filter and filled to 2/3 on dipstick hash mark. I picked the boat up and headed to lake for 4 days of fishing/boating.... put a solid 8 hours of run time on the engine and some good WOT run time on engine during the 4 days. Checked oil and it had risen to the top of the hash mark on dipstick, oil was somewhat dirty and smelled of fuel. Called dealer and took boat back to them and they started tests all over again and finally after about 3 hours of running tests on the mechanical (low pressure) fuel pump.. it failed and starting leaking fuel into crankcase. They have ordered the replacement fuel pump and I should have the boat out of the shop next week. I will take the boat back to the lake and run it again and see how she performs. By the way, the mechanical fuel pump was the problem some other people posted as the culprit of the 'making oil' issue.

Just thought I would let y'all know what I found....

 

[fishskunk]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

I had the exact same problem on a 2008 suzuki df90. Mechanical pump failed at 110 hours and started making oil.

 

[Triton II]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke --UPDATE

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke --UPDATE

Update on 'making oil' issue. Took boat to dealer and they tested fuel injectors, blow-by issues, high pressure fuel pump, mechanical (low pressure) fuel pump, compression on all 4 cylinders, etc., etc., and found no problems. So, they changed the oil and oil filter and filled to 2/3 on dipstick hash mark. I picked the boat up and headed to lake for 4 days of fishing/boating.... put a solid 8 hours of run time on the engine and some good WOT run time on engine during the 4 days. Checked oil and it had risen to the top of the hash mark on dipstick, oil was somewhat dirty and smelled of fuel. Called dealer and took boat back to them and they started tests all over again and finally after about 3 hours of running tests on the mechanical (low pressure) fuel pump.. it failed and starting leaking fuel into crankcase. They have ordered the replacement fuel pump and I should have the boat out of the shop next week. I will take the boat back to the lake and run it again and see how she performs. By the way, the mechanical fuel pump was the problem some other people posted as the culprit of the 'making oil' issue.

Just thought I would let y'all know what I found....

E180: Glad you found out why she was making oil. I have 90 hours on my '09 F115 and she doesn't make or use oil - it's Yamalube 10W40 and it's clear and light brown after 70 hours since the post break-in service. Hoping the replacement fuel pump stops your problem.

TII

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Yahama F115 4 STroke

Ill post it again,easiest way to check the fuel pump on yamaha 4 strokes is to unbolt it,swing it aside,pump the fuel primer and see if gas leaks down the pump drive rod.
takes maybe 5 minutes and if the oring is not damaged simply bolt the pump back on or rebuild or replace the pump as nessasary.