Wiring question at the motor -- 94' Merc 4.3 - disconnected wires

[savetexomabeaches]

Probably a 2 Looks like you have the old style Y pipes.. Ut oh The part number you're looking for is14348A1 aka 807166A3

http://www.iboats.com/Water-Shutter-18-2732-9-Sierra/dm/view_id.172506

 

[Spiderhole]

Probably a 2 Looks like you have the old style Y pipes.. Ut oh The part number you're looking for is14348A1 aka 807166A3

http://www.iboats.com/Water-Shutter-18-2732-9-Sierra/dm/view_id.172506

What is the implication of the Y pipes? It sounds as though I should be concerned. Is there something I need or should consider doing? Is the link you included the exact replacement I need to order?

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Yes, those are yours.. and that Y pipe was known for failures for the flapper rods, vibrations and stuff would wear out the rods and parts would fall into the Y pipe, either blowing out of the exhaust, or getting stuck in there, vibrating and wearing a hole in the pipe, causing leaks and sometimes quickly flooding of the bilge. SENT Private Message

 

[Spiderhole]

I guess an additional question I need to ask... since clearly part of that flapper blew off, I assume it is blown down the pipe. Does the exhaust exit through the lower unit? I would assume that I need to get whatever broke off out of there, and I don't see where the exhaust exits exactly.

...from what I'm reading, it seems what I'll need to do is pull the out drive and prop off to find all the fun stuff that's missing, which doesn't seem to difficult. Is that correct?

 

[savetexomabeaches]

If you have not removed the drive and inspected the U joints, gimbal, all that stuff, now would be a perfect time.



Then you can run a water hose down the Y pipe to flush anything out.

 

[Bondo]

I assume it is blown down the pipe. Does the exhaust exit through the lower unit? I would assume that I need to get whatever broke off out of there, and I don't see where the exhaust exits exactly.

Ayuh,.... Once ya pull the drive, ya might find the pieces here, like in this picture, or possibly behind the prop in the lower unit, or possibly they were blown clean outa the drive altogether,...

 

[Spiderhole]

No Title

Here's what I'm looking at...

I need to buy a new seal, mine came apart when I pulled the unit off

I think the U-joints are all good

Thanks!

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Gotta be careful with those gaskets, some can run you 100.00 . Get you a can of perfect seal. Before you put that back on make sure your shifter is straight. That white plastic broke piece is your Speedo tube connector

 

[Spiderhole]

Gotta be careful with those gaskets, some can run you 100.00 . Get you a can of perfect seal. Before you put that back on make sure your shifter is straight. That white plastic broke piece is your Speedo tube connector

Yeah I was trying my level best to get that off without breaking the gasket, it was just on there really good, I had let it soak in some penetrating oil for a while but it still broke. Hopefully I can find that gasket for under $100. The speedo tube connector was broken in there already apparently... to be honest, I don't see where the other end is to connect to it - definitely want a working speedo.

I am not seeing any fragments in the the areas identified. Its possible the previous owner pulled some pieces out when they took the prop off or they blew out.

Other than that, the drive looks good I think? Agreed?

Oh, I should have probably posted this before... is this where my speedo tube is now located? I have a hunch the old one broke off and the previous owner may have added this as a fix. If that is correct, I think I'd like to move it back to its original location assuming that white plastic piece isn't too hard to replace.

 

[Fun Times]

Any time you remove the drive on an Alpha drive it's always best to install a new gasket kit for best measure... The longer the gasket is in place, the chances increase it's going to tear plus become compromised to where it won't be reusable. The OEM kit part number is 27-94996Q2 and costs around $10.00. http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Parts-Ac...searched.1--session_id.440786868&q=27-94996Q2

With the white pitot pick up tube being added/mounted to the boat like that, it looks like they bypassed the pick up hole located in the lower unit gear case housing by running/extending the rubber hose from the original location in order to still be able to use the thru transom assembly bulkhead fitting versus drilling a new hole through the boats fiberglass.

The pick up hole on the lower gear case housing is small and easily becomes clogged with debris. Also the original Mercruiser drive pick up fitting connectors have changed designs over the one you currently have. Old part number was 815921A8 but now it's 23-815921A21, http://www.iboats.com/Sierra-18-2353...view_id.172678 which is item number 25,http://www.iboats.com/Mercruiser-Gen...view_id.272971

This is what it appears you're using right now, http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Parts-Acc...70&q=pitot

You also need to determine what is resting inside the U-joint bellows..Is it Water or Oil and how did it get there. Besides the accumulated grease build-up from servicing the gimbal bearing, It should be dry in there.

Now you'll need to buy yourself an engine alignment bar tool too before reinstalling the drive.

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Now you'll need to buy yourself an engine alignment bar tool too before reinstalling the drive.

Reason for needing that tool?

 

[Spiderhole]

Reason for needing that tool?

I was going to ask that as well? I watched a few video's on Youtube and it looked like the shops were pretty much putting them back on opposite of install.

I was able to find that gasket and get it ordered a little earlier

Thank you for your thoughts on the speedometer

I will check that in the bellows but I am pretty sure it is oil - not exactly sure how it's in their either, but it may have ran down the drive shaft as I was pulling the drive off, I don't know. Any guesses?

 

[Fun Times]

Reason for needing that tool?

It's recommended as a preventive maintenance for the engine coupler that any time (including once a year/100 hours for the OP / depending on later model years for others) you remove the stern drive, it is best to check the engine alignment to help ensure the engine alignment hasn't moved due to number of possible reasons... With the OP not really knowing the history of the boat makes this even more important. The alignment bar tool can also be used to help grease up the engine coupler which is important along with ensuring the gimbal bearing is aligned with the coupler too should the bearing be changed out or accidentally bumped/turned during input shaft installation.
https://www.perfprotech.com/blog/art...er-replacement

Question:
Why do I have to periodically check my engine alignment and lubricate the engine coupler?
Answer:
With time and usage, the engine will sometimes get out of alignment with the transom assembly and sterndrive. For longest engine coupler life, it is important that the engine alignment be as accurate as possible. We recommend using Quicksilver Engine Coupler Spline Grease for proper lubrication. Damage caused by improper engine alignment or lack of lubrication is not covered under the limited warranty.

https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/ca/...on+Redirection

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...nkw=mercruiser+engine+alignment+tool&_sacat=0

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Owner/gas/86017101.pdf

 

[Fun Times]

I was going to ask that as well? I watched a few video's on Youtube and it looked like the shops were pretty much putting them back on opposite of install.

But have you watched achris how to videos?? While some of those videos are okay for something's/certain things, others are not so good as for showing the proper methods needed.

I will check that in the bellows but I am pretty sure it is oil - not exactly sure how it's in their either, but it may have ran down the drive shaft as I was pulling the drive off, I don't know. Any guesses?

If you find it to be oil then you'll need to reseal the upper drive shaft housing input shaft assembly or you'll be lowering the gear oil level within the drive unit causing major damage to the gears and bearings inside the drive.

 

[savetexomabeaches]

I didn't see the O ring oil gasket in any of his photos on the drive

 

[Fun Times]

I didn't see the O ring oil gasket in any of his photos on the drive

Alphas don't Per se have an oil O-ring for the bell housing gear oil reservoir valve assembly as seen in the photo below. The oil valve area tends to use the bell housing gasket to help seal the oil parts.
The big bell housing O-ring looks to be in place though along with the inlet water O-ring.:encouragement:

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Alphas don't Per se have an oil O-ring for the bell housing gear oil reservoir valve assembly

True true.. Time for Ol' Spiddy to get a spanner wrench. Do not be afraid of this job, there will be lots of parts, and it may seem confusing, but learning to do it yourself will save you lots of dollas.

Shoot, he should go ahead and do the water impellar while he is at it

 

[Spiderhole]

No Title

Yup agreed, it seems I will be learning new tricks. I will take you advice and also do the impeller while I'm at it. I hope that doing this job and the exhaust flappers will be enough to get me safely on the water. I will start acquiring the tools and parts kits I'll need. I went ahead and whipped together a stand to make getting at all this a little easier...

 

[achris]

Looks good. I've done a few videos which might help you on the water pump service. And how to check the engine alignment. Just click the 'My Videos' link at the bottom of this post.

 

[Spiderhole]

Will do, thank you