winterizing my i/o chaparral

[vipertblck]

boat is an '01 chaparral 180SSE with 3.0 and SEI116 outdrive. wanted to get my feet in here a bit early to discuss winterizing in northern Illinois. next few weeks I'm assuming i'll have to do it. I know about cleaning it and what not but my primary intention for the post is to discuss and learn how to properly winterize the engine and outdrive.. oils changed I understand but how do I go about preventing it from cracking anything if it freezes. boat will be stored in a building that is climate controlled to above freezing, but just in case I wanna winterize thoroughly. I'm doing it myself so I do not have a big tank to dunk the outdrive in coolant and let it run. motor is brand new, installed in july with about 3 hours on it. trying to sell but boat isn't selling, so I need to prep it for winter and take care of it.

 

[Bt Doctur]

flush and fog down the motor, remove the drain plugs in the block and manifold, probe to insure draining, remove large hose at therm housing ,pour A/F into hose until it comes out the therm housing. remove small hose from manifold, pour in AF until it comes out the exaust

 

[vipertblck]

that's it? sounds easy enough, will that coolant flow through my outdrive some too so that's protected in the event the furnace fails in the building?

 

[Starcraft5834]

You have a manual? Follow winter storage procedures..i bet it says nothing about dumping antifreeze in the block...your concern is freeze...air does not freeze..remove what can freeze. Water AND "pink stuff" freezes..at dif temps..but they both freeze. Air wont freeze on Earth...just drain it..as for your drive..make sure its in the full down position..all the water will run out of it...

 

[vipertblck]

You have a manual? Follow winter storage procedures..i bet it says nothing about dumping antifreeze in the block...your concern is freeze...air does not freeze..remove what can freeze. Water AND "pink stuff" freezes..at dif temps..but they both freeze. Air wont freeze on Earth...just drain it..as for your drive..make sure its in the full down position..all the water will run out of it...

I'll check my manual, but I wouldn't feel comfortable just draining the block, what if I miss something or it doesn't all get out; that's the last thing I need. This engine is brand new. Plus the fact that marinas and places all put antifreeze in there makes me think it's the right thing to do. I'll check my manual anyhow though...but I do understand what you're saying

 

[Silvertip]

You don't feel comfortable draining the block? Then you should also be uncomfortable by just pouring anti-freeze into the engine because there can be pockets of water that you didn't get anti-freeze into. Your first step in winterizing is:
1) Treat the remaining fuel with Stabil. Yes - Yes - others feel it is snake oil. Just do it~!
2) Put the boat in the water and run it long enough to flush the engine (fresh water of course) and to get the treated fuel into the fuel system on the engine.
3) Familiarize yourself with the cooling system on your particular engine. Remember, water does not run up hill unless forced. Therefore pay attention to hoses/devices (coolers) that are below any of the drain plugs. Remove the cooling water lines from those devices so they can drain.
4) As was pointed out, air does not freeze. Miss a spot with anti-freeze or fail to drain properly and you will be looking for another new engine.
5) Your manual or better yet, a "Service Manual" for your engine is the best investment if you plan to do any work on this boat yourself.

 

[Starcraft5834]

what Silvertip said......... if you have an air compressor, after you drain it, remove top water hose, stick that baby in there and blast away,, you will drive out what little water is in there,, probably not much if any.... I live on the NY/PA line, what would be considered "upstate NY" for you NYC people that think NYC is a state......anyway, last winter as we all know was brutal...(15) days in Jan below zero.. an all time historical record.. I bought my new to me boat.. 3.0 sterndrive... I joined this forum, asked ?.. my manual said to drain it... Bondo who seemed like a straight shooter told me to drain it and put it to bed. it will sleep fine.. I drained it.. I fretted and stressed last winter wondering if I screwed it up... the only thing my engine needed in spring was new points....it ran perfectly all season....I'm going to drain it again and do the same thing...this winter I wont stress about it........ you should not either,, just drain it..

I'm sure the coming months there will be lots of opinions about this,, for those that want to use the pink stuff to make them feel better, have at it,, for those that just drain it,, they take the money saved and buy a few hogies

 

[Bondo]

boat is an '01 chaparral 180SSE with 3.0 and SEI116 outdrive. wanted to get my feet in here a bit early to discuss winterizing in northern Illinois. next few weeks I'm assuming i'll have to do it. I know about cleaning it and what not but my primary intention for the post is to discuss and learn how to properly winterize the engine and outdrive.. oils changed I understand but how do I go about preventing it from cracking anything if it freezes. boat will be stored in a building that is climate controlled to above freezing, but just in case I wanna winterize thoroughly. I'm doing it myself so I do not have a big tank to dunk the outdrive in coolant and let it run. motor is brand new, installed in july with about 3 hours on it. trying to sell but boat isn't selling, so I need to prep it for winter and take care of it.

Ayuh,..... Check out #11 in Don'S Adults Only section,.....

Everything 'bout Winterizin' is in there,.....

 

[vipertblck]

I have two hoses at the top of my motor, one is connected to the block and other the manifold, the hoses are just hanging on a quick disconnect fitting, so if I take both hoses and guide them down to the bilge, it drains the block and manifold; which I have done when I purchased the boat in wondering what they were. Well that's all fine and dandy, but with the block and manifold drained, I need to ensure ALL water is drained; just pulling off the water pump hose and blowing will do this? also how do I ensure my outdrive is drained of all water, or is there nothing to worry about there? I guess I just like the antifreeze idea because I could be extra cautios then, as well as keep my gaskets and rubber components(sea water impeller) in some sort of lube instead of bone dry....does it matter?

 

[vipertblck]

also another point here, I'm not planning on removing my outdrive for any of this; it was off and gone through with a bellows job <3 hours ago. Boat will be stored indoors and maintained above freezing, like I said I just want to ensure it's done right...just in case. basically you guys say that draining the water and leaving it that way is best? leaving the inside of engine, hoses, water pump impeller, etc. all dry? what about this corrosion I read about?

 

[Bondo]

I have two hoses at the top of my motor, one is connected to the block and other the manifold, the hoses are just hanging on a quick disconnect fitting, so if I take both hoses and guide them down to the bilge, it drains the block and manifold; which I have done when I purchased the boat in wondering what they were. Well that's all fine and dandy, but with the block and manifold drained, I need to ensure ALL water is drained; just pulling off the water pump hose and blowing will do this? also how do I ensure my outdrive is drained of all water, or is there nothing to worry about there? I guess I just like the antifreeze idea because I could be extra cautios then, as well as keep my gaskets and rubber components(sea water impeller) in some sort of lube instead of bone dry....does it matter?

Ayuh,.... I don't trust Yer "System" of hoses,....
There's no way to poke, 'n prod the Hole in the block, 'n manifold to knock loose the crud that can block 'em, leavin' water in the block,....

ALL ya need in those holes is a 1/4" brass pipe plug,.... takes a 9/16" wrench,....
Some manifolds use an 1/8" pipe,.... take's a 7/16" wrench,.....

Pullin' the Big hose off the circulatin' water pump finishs the motor, to drain the drive, Lower it,....

 

[vipertblck]

What are the plugs and wrench sizes you were talking about, r those what's in the block and manifold that I'm to remove? Also what did you mean about the drain and drive with the engine water pump and pulling big hose off?

Ayuh,.... I don't trust Yer "System" of hoses,.... There's no way to poke, 'n prod the Hole in the block, 'n manifold to knock loose the crud that can block 'em, leavin' water in the block,.... ALL ya need in those holes is a 1/4" brass pipe plug,.... takes a 9/16" wrench,.... Some manifolds use an 1/8" pipe,.... take's a 7/16" wrench,..... Pullin' the Big hose off the circulatin' water pump finishs the motor, to drain the drive, Lower it,....

 

[JaCrispy]

remove the drain plugs in the block and manifold, probe to insure draining,

This is so true! when I got my boat the drain valves were removed, but the base fittings still in the manifolds. I ran the boat 3-4 times, no leaks. Found the valves bouncing around in the bilge one day. Ran a pick into the manifilds and found a bunch of silt clogging them up.

 

[Starcraft5834]

you can probe the drain holes with heavy weed whacker line.... your going to get 99% of the water out... your good... as to the drive,, just lower it verticle (down), water will run out... corrosion? if you run in salt water flush it good with fresh water and drain it, if your in fresh water, just drain it... your block will sleep soundly empty

 

[vipertblck]

you can probe the drain holes with heavy weed whacker line.... your going to get 99% of the water out... your good... as to the drive,, just lower it verticle (down), water will run out... corrosion? if you run in salt water flush it good with fresh water and drain it, if your in fresh water, just drain it... your block will sleep soundly empty

Alright I'll take everyone's word, aside from a lil oil down the intake, full fuel tank with stabil, and a thorough cleaning; I just pull the plugs at lowest point on block and manifold, drain water and then prove around to ensure all is out, and call it a day? No taking outdrive off or what not? Do I install plugs again or leave out through winter. Boat has run about 2 hours in river water, no salt, since new engine install. Any kinda rust inhibitor for stuff or xoncern about rubber components likes impeller or hoses, or just drain all the water and tuck it away?

 

[Bondo]

Alright I'll take everyone's word, aside from a lil oil down the intake, full fuel tank with stabil, and a thorough cleaning; I just pull the plugs at lowest point on block and manifold, drain water and then prove around to ensure all is out, and call it a day? No taking outdrive off or what not? Do I install plugs again or leave out through winter. Boat has run about 2 hours in river water, no salt, since new engine install. Any kinda rust inhibitor for stuff or xoncern about rubber components likes impeller or hoses, or just drain all the water and tuck it away?

Ayuh,.... Ya don't Have to pull the drive,... That just gives ya a chance to look everything over, 'n head off Trouble, rather than later,....
atleast lower it, 'n take a sample outa the oil drain screw, checkin' for Water, so's ya don't have it, Freeze, 'n Bust,...

I leave the drain plugs sittin' on the intake on most motors,...

 

[UncleWillie]

You have a newer engine and drive.
There is likely a one way valve in the line from the drive to the motor to prevent the block from draining itself every time you shut down the motor.

For those if us that are anal about winterizing and don't worry about doing it the easy or quick way and feel better if it is overdone.... here is the overkill method.

Change the Oil in the Engine.
Drain the block and remove the Thermostat.
Place a small cheap kiddie pool under the outdrive.
Pump in the Pink Antifreeze through the muffs until it appears in the exhaust. (~6 Gallons).
Now, drain the block again into the kiddie pool.
The engine will be drained and any remaining water will be Antifreeze.
Air doesn't freeze and ever thing is now coated in the Oily Antifreeze. The best of both methods.

Save the Antifreeze in the kiddie Pool for use next year.
Test it by placing a sample in a plastic bottle and place it in your freezer.
-50 Antifreeze will turn into a solid slush but it is not rock hard like ice.
Add a gallon of -200 Antifreeze to the mix if needed. It stays 100% liquid.

Drain the Outdrive and remove it for the winter. It is coming off now or in the spring anyway.
You will need to inspect the Impeller and check the alignment of the engine Coupler annually.

You have probably noticed that this subject has more opinions than Carter has Pills.
Listen to all the advice and make your choice of methods.
The object of this exercise is to get the water out, ALL of the Water Out!
Be sure you understand the consequences of your decision as any mistake will be Expensive. $$$

 

[vipertblck]

I like that idea of filling with antifreeze and them draining, how can I do this though, 5 gal bucket filled with a hose running to muffs, or does it need water pressure? Also what's this pink antifreeE you're referring to?

You have a newer engine and drive. There is likely a one way valve in the line from the drive to the motor to prevent the block from draining itself every time you shut down the motor. For those if us that are anal about winterizing and don't worry about doing it the easy or quick way and feel better if it is overdone.... here is the overkill method. Change the Oil in the Engine. Drain the block and remove the Thermostat. Place a small cheap kiddie pool under the outdrive. Pump in the Pink Antifreeze through the muffs until it appears in the exhaust. (~6 Gallons). Now, drain the block again into the kiddie pool. The engine will be drained and any remaining water will be Antifreeze. Air doesn't freeze and ever thing is now coated in the Oily Antifreeze. The best of both methods. Save the Antifreeze in the kiddie Pool for use next year. Test it by placing a sample in a plastic bottle and place it in your freezer. -50 Antifreeze will turn into a solid slush but it is not rock hard like ice. Add a gallon of -200 Antifreeze to the mix if needed. It stays 100% liquid. Drain the Outdrive and remove it for the winter. It is coming off now or in the spring anyway. You will need to inspect the Impeller and check the alignment of the engine Coupler annually. You have probably noticed that this subject has more opinions than Carter has Pills. Listen to all the advice and make your choice of methods. The object of this exercise is to get the water out, ALL of the Water Out! Be sure you understand the consequences of your decision as any mistake will be Expensive. $$$

 

[DaveG55]

Pink antifreeze is designed for RV and marine use. It comes in two varieties. One is made with alcohol as the antifreeze agent the other with proplyene glycol. You want the proplyene glycol stuff. You also want to pay attention to the amount of propylene glycol versus the filler, which is usually water. The higher the percentage of propylene glycol the lower the antifreeze is rated. Buy stuff with a lower temp rating than the lowest winter temp you expect.
The pink stuff does freeze but it Does NOT expand, although any filler and water left in the engine will dilute it and that does expand. It's the expansion that breaks things, not the freezing.

 

[Lou C]

The main things are stabilizing the fuel, changing the fluids in the engine and drive, fogging the engine (non fuel injected) and draining ALL the water, probe ALL the drains, that Merc single point system would never work here (salt water). I do back fill the engine and manifolds with -100 AF with corrosion inhibitors and the engine has not rusted through yet (26 years old at least half used in salt). In fact this is exactly what the Merc (and also my OMC) manuals tell you to do. You can leave it dry, just get ALL the water out. When I look in the intake manifold when changing a thermostat there is surprisingly little corrosion. So what I'm doing works fine for me.....