Winterization Question

[BILLDON]

OK. I just replaced my exhaust manifolds and risers on my 5.0GI PEFS. Also replaced my impeller and knock sensor. Changed the fuel/oil/filter. Also removed the end plates on the heat exchanger and put in a new pencil zinc. Fired it up an everything runs well. Plenty of water flowing thru the engine from the hose and earmuffs. I noticed that it took a while to fill the manifolds/risers when I fired it up, suggesting that this system holds a lot of water. The heat exchanger seems to be the low point on this cooling system. Removing the end plates seems to drain everything pretty well. The manual says that I should just empty the manifolds and remove the hoses from the raw water pump and crank it a few times. I am thinking I should also introduce some RV glycol into the hoses removed from the manifolds until it won't take any more. I think this will fill the heat exchanger and probably the pump with glycol. I have read several posts that say I should run ear muffs on the outdrive and pump in (several gallons) of the red stuff until it comers out red under the drive. Not sure what everybody is doing these days. We get -20 degrees F here during winter. What's everybody doing these days?

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Winterization Question

Everybody is doing something different. . . .

With -20F, your best to drain things. You can run some of the RV/Marine antifreeze in through the muffs, but then you should drain things.

It sounds like you have a closed cooling system. Sounds like it is a 'half' system if the manual says to drain the manifolds.

FWIW - I run the antifreeze in through the muffs to cover the intake components of the cooling system and then drain the heat exchanger and other things that hold lots of water. Best of both worlds approach.

 

[skydiveD30571]

Re: Winterization Question

Just scroll through this forum and the "non-repair I/O's and Inboards" forums and look how many people have asked that same question in the last couple weeks. It's common for this time of year.

FYI, a large majority of people, me included, will say to skip the antifreeze. You're more than ok just making sure everything is drained. Air doesn't freeze. If it makes you sleep better at night, go ahead and add antifreeze if you want but ONLY after you've drained everything first.

 

[GilligansIsland]

Re: Winterization Question

knowing your system and where the low points are, is key. On my old contessa, I drained the manifolds via plugs and pulled the impeller cover off as well as the supply hose to it. That was basically it. But, being concerned that water may have lingered, I put the plugs and hoses back on and poured anti freeze into the heat exchanger hoses to fill the system - and then drained again. I just slept better that way.

Be sure to use a wire to poke into drain plugs to make sure debris isn't holding water.

 

[dutch993]

Re: Winterization Question

How about removing the water inlet pipe on the manifold and blowing the air through it using a shop vac? Or reverse and blowing through the exhaust from the outside? Just a thought.

 

[GilligansIsland]

Re: Winterization Question

How about removing the water inlet pipe on the manifold and blowing the air through it using a shop vac? Or reverse and blowing through the exhaust from the outside? Just a thought.

That could work but I would be inclined to vacuum from the low point rather than blow it out from the high point.

 

[GilligansIsland]

Re: Winterization Question

...mistakes are costly here though. So be careful

 

[dutch993]

Re: Winterization Question

OK. I just replaced my exhaust manifolds and risers on my 5.0GI PEFS. Also replaced my impeller and knock sensor. Changed the fuel/oil/filter. Also removed the end plates on the heat exchanger and put in a new pencil zinc. Fired it up an everything runs well. Plenty of water flowing thru the engine from the hose and earmuffs. I noticed that it took a while to fill the manifolds/risers when I fired it up, suggesting that this system holds a lot of water. The heat exchanger seems to be the low point on this cooling system. Removing the end plates seems to drain everything pretty well. The manual says that I should just empty the manifolds and remove the hoses from the raw water pump and crank it a few times. I am thinking I should also introduce some RV glycol into the hoses removed from the manifolds until it won't take any more. I think this will fill the heat exchanger and probably the pump with glycol. I have read several posts that say I should run ear muffs on the outdrive and pump in (several gallons) of the red stuff until it comers out red under the drive. Not sure what everybody is doing these days. We get -20 degrees F here during winter. What's everybody doing these days?

My Volvo Penta 3.0 also has a heat exchanger. Should I remove the end plates as well to drain all the water. Do all of the heat exchangers contain this pencil zinc?
And I noticed on the schematics for my engine possible drain plugs (2x) under the manifold. I suppose simply remove them with an allen key and drain the water out?

 

[BILLDON]

Re: Winterization Question

A 3.0 is a different animal completely. But I would say you should take off the end plates every year to make sure the tubes aren't plugged up (I had to use a mirror/flashlight to see). On mine, the heat exchanger is clearly the lowest point on the engine, so it drains everything completely (I think/hope). Pencil zincs are very important in salt water, but not so in fresh, so it depends. On mine, it is a separate hex nut on the heat exchanger that just screws out. When you take off the end plates you will see it. And yes, take off the hoses from the manifolds to make sure that the water drains out. The raw water pump also needs to be emptied so no water remains in it. After draining the heat exchanger, just turn the key a few times to crank the engine (without starting). That should empty the pump.